RTA's....

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Marc411

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Marc, I generally use my VW on the Vamo, I favor that for some odd reason over the voltage lol. I do have my Voltage set at 3.0 and my wattage at 3.5 to keep from burning up the coils. I would lower the voltage if and when I went with a higher wattage and vice versa. I killed a few packages of coils playing with both the VW and the VV on the Vamo. From what I understand is that the voltage is automatically adjusted when I increase or decrease my wattage, which is why I think I tend to use the wattage setting more frequently. And I use the Protank 2's.....

V

You are correct, if you use your PV in VW mode the VV is taken care of automatically for you. I run everything in VW, PV just perform and vape better for me. Are you by any chance burning your coils when you switch to VV mode? What are the ohms of your coils?

Do you have rebuilding skills now? :)

And if you are throwing away your burnt coils you may want to stop that because those will end up being perfect for rebuilds.
 
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Equilibrium

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I haven't had any issues top filling my 3.1's, but the Lites are more difficult for me for some reason. However, bottom filling for the Lite's is much easier then the side fill port on the 3.1's so it's all good.

I don't even try anymore - it's too easy to fill from the bottom.
 

Nautiboy1279

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Idk you got me, I have no issue wrapping two coils that glow the same, and I find it EASIER to build on than the Kayfun, number one reason is the coils are nice and far from the deck, so easy to position over airholes, and also easy to prevent from shorting on the deck (which happened to me once on the kayfun, welded my coil to the deck, and just happened randomly during use)

Also I know some prefer single coils but in all of my builds ive come to my own conclusion/opinion that 2 is better than one. I get a warmer, thicker, and tastier vape.

Also I can rewick, recoil, etc with my aqua without draining the tank by removing the bottom with it upside down. TO recoil or rewick my kayfun requires me to drain the tank and literally disassemble the entire atomizer

Also my Kayfun would leak if left on its side and was getting low

Also I got occasional dry or weak hits when chain vaping my kayfun despite trying diff wicks, it just couldn't keep up with my juice, and if that happened, well once again I had to disassemble the entire thing just to rewick. The Aqua using peaches and cream yarn and 1/16 30gauge 1.7 duals has never given me a dry or slightly dry hit, and if it feels like its drying up cuz im chaining heavily, I just open the juice valve a little, problem solved

Also ive converted a few of my friends from kayfuns, and they all agree with me, the Aqua is a beast of an RTA. I have yet to have a person be like ugh why did you make me get this aqua I prefer my kayfun still

I do agree with some of the things your saying for sure. Though, I have never had my kayfun leak and im constantly switching out an RTA for an RBA where I constantly lay the kayfun on its side, and had never had an issue. But i did a rush of a build on my kayfun where the one leg was touching the middle chimney which sits under the coil and yes it completely broke the leg clean lol. But that will happen on a sloppy build with many pieces of hardware. The Aqua is def a top RTA, and I actually may get one myself in the future or even a Fogger v4. I hear those are great as well. Im sure she would be in good shape with either one, especially if she has a master coil builder at her disposal. I did have that problem with the wicking when chain vaping sub ohm on the Kayfun, but once I switched to organic cotton, and made sure the end of the cotton went the length of each side of the deck, it resolved that issue. I'm sure there is a slight learning curve with both units. Conclusion of thoughts tho that these are both great tanks that will out perform any other all in one tank where you have to purchase screw on coil replacements (e.g., aspire nautilus, vivi nova, kanger, pro, etc.). They both give a great vape thats really unmatched by many other tanks out there.
 

VamoVixen

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V

You are correct, if you use your PV in VW mode the VV is taken care of automatically for you. I run everything in VW, PV just perform and vape better for me. Are you by any chance burning your coils when you switch to VV mod? What are the ohms of your coils?

Do you have rebuilding skills now? :)

And if you are throwing away your burnt coils you may want to stop that because those will end up being perfect for rebuilds.

I actually very RARELY use VV mode on my Vamo. Sometimes my coils come out of the packaging with the burnt taste. I clean my coils with plain Vodka by letting them sit for a day or so depending on how dirty my wicks are. I can get anywhere from a few days to 2 weeks out of a coil, but it just really depends I suppose. The one's that came with my Protank lasted me a month each. I bought a 5 pack from Kanger last month and I have burnt up all but 2 coils. One coil gives me the low load warning until I loosen the tank on the mod, which can be frustrating. I have been throwing my burnt coils away as I did not know that they could be rebuilt. As far as me having rebuilding skills, that is a big fat NO lol. I lack the patience to fiddle with stuff too much, I like my stuff matter of fact and pretty much ready to go, plug and play if you will. My husband can build anything coil related, so he would be the one building my coils in any RTA or the protank coils. Can you link me to a place that gives good directions for rebuilding the Kanger coils? As far as Ohm's on these coils they are 2.0 Ohm's.
 

Nautiboy1279

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One thing I gotta say... I have not mastered filling the kayfun from the top. The thing will leak everywhere!! I know the process but still have no luck so I just fill from the bottom and it doesn't leak at all.

The only issue I have with the kayfun is it tends to leak out the air hole on really hot days. I can lay it on it's side and it won't leak but on a 95 degree day occasionally liquid will seep out the air hole. Sux when you get a wet spot in your pocket :(

Which version Kayfun do you have? I have never had a leaking issue of any type before. I also think it depends on which clone you get. Some I do hear leak as goes the same with other types of clones. Def have to do your research on YouTube/Google before buying a clone. Some are just not made that well. On the other hand, some are just as quality as the originals.
 

Nautiboy1279

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Vixen, just jump onto YouTube and search for "kanger coil rebuild" and you will have your pick from likely 10 or more very detailed videos. Its very worth it to rebuild your old ones. When done correctly, they will work better than the ones purchased brand new, and being they will likely be rebuilt with better material, the last longer as well. Vape will be better than what your used to, especially if you get the build down to maybe a 1.3 or so.
 

edyle

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I have been doing a bit of reading here lately on rebuildable tank atty's. I have become so sick and tired of buying new coils for my Protank only to find that the brand new coils are either already burnt, or give off a low load reading on my Vamo. I really DO NOT want to start dripping, it's just not for me and I LOVE tanks, however my husband drips, and he can build my coils and rewick anything I buy, so that won't be an issue.

My issue is finding a good RTA, and also some information on good clones? I have been looking at both the Kayfun clone and the R91% clone from Focalecig, but I just don't know if it is a good place to get a clone? I don't have a TON of $$$ laying around for expensive "real" merchandise especially now that I found out I am pregnant. I do have a Nemesis clone on the way so if I cannot use the RTA on my V5 (I don't see why I can't) then I can use it on the Nemy.

My other question which is really a concern would be air flow on an RTA. I absolutely cannot stand an airy draw, there has to be tightness to it, my protank for example is too airy for me, but I use it and deal for the most part. I want something that closely resembles the draw of a real cigarette. I do mouth hit's more than lung hits, so the tightness on the draw has to be there or I just don't feel like I am getting ANYTHING out of my atty's. So any good RTA's with a tighter, less airy draw, that is cheap, reliable, sexy, etc....available on the market and if so, what is it, and how do I get my hands on it?

Thanks

V

The EPHpro Kayfun Lite Plus seems to be the popular one. Definitely worth getting a rebuildable.

But have you tried rewicking your coils? I am rewicking coils at least ten times before they need recoiling.
Didn't even try for 3 months while I waited for some kanthal and for a coil to litterally burn out; but when I tried it with my 50 yr old eyes I was surprised how easy it was to rewick; (recoiling a protank is harder though, but won't have to do that anywhere as often.)


Stop throwing away your protank coils – ITCVapes

protank_tutorial_9_grande.jpg
 

Nibiru2012

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I would recommend either the Kayfun Lite Plus or the Taifun GT. Both give very good TH and draw.

The Kayfun Lite Plus uses an adjustable screw to regulate the draw while the Taifun GT uses small replaceable air tubes in the rebuildable base assembly.

Personally I prefer the Taifun GT because it's easier to fill and much easier to replace the wick or coil versus the Kayfun (regardless of model or type). Although the Kayfun Lite and Lite Plus both have bottom-fill removable screws to fill the tank. The Taifun is a faster fill though. Also you can get all stainless steel tanks for the Taifun GT from FastTech for less than $4.00 each w/free shipping. The all stainless tanks really makes the Taifun GT an attractive atty.

I use 3mm ID coils of 28ga. Kanthal with a 6 wrap which gives about a 1.3-1.4 ohm coil and cotton wick. I vape these coils at 12 watts and get plenty of vapor and TH. Sometimes I'll make a 3mm ID coil with 30ga. Kanthal with a 4-5 wrap which give about a 1.4-1.5 ohm coil. The 30ga. coils are a little quicker to respond than the 28ga. coils, but the 30ga. coils run a tad bit hotter (ie, glow brighter) versus the 28ga. coils. The 28ga. coils give a slightly smoother vape too.
 

Nibiru2012

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EHPro lite +

It only leaks on 95+ degree days though and only when I'm out in the sun with it. Laying down or standing up it doesn't matter. Any other time it never leaks.

I believe this is due to the temperature differential between the tank's liquid temperature and the outside air temperature. It causes a differential in the vacuum and causes the leaking. I have the same issues also in cold weather too. Also try to store the unit in a upright position when traveling etc., this will help to reduce the leaking issues. Sometimes when the temperature differential is great I'll store it upside down which prevents the liquid from being forced into the atomization chamber.
 

Equilibrium

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I believe this is due to the temperature differential between the tank's liquid temperature and the outside air temperature. It causes a differential in the vacuum and causes the leaking. I have the same issues also in cold weather too. Also try to store the unit in a upright position when traveling etc., this will help to reduce the leaking issues. Sometimes when the temperature differential is great I'll store it upside down which prevents the liquid from being forced into the atomization chamber.


That's what I thought too. Great tip on storing upside down. I'm gonna give it a try. :)
 

Rodeorat

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Heres a video I made to help my friends out with their Aquas and filling, you would also find you can stuff 3ml in this way, so its longer between fills. Its also beneficial as you can rewick/recoil without draining and cleaning the whole thing!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0kMjXvQlZo0

Thanks VC. Yeah, I"ve seen the videos, but my chimney is just way too lose to do it that way. It's way harder than just popping the top off and flipping it upside down while I screw in the top. I would definitely lose more juice in the process than the extra 1/2 ml gained by bottom filling.
 

Marc411

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I actually very RARELY use VV mode on my Vamo. Sometimes my coils come out of the packaging with the burnt taste. I clean my coils with plain Vodka by letting them sit for a day or so depending on how dirty my wicks are. I can get anywhere from a few days to 2 weeks out of a coil, but it just really depends I suppose. The one's that came with my Protank lasted me a month each. I bought a 5 pack from Kanger last month and I have burnt up all but 2 coils. One coil gives me the low load warning until I loosen the tank on the mod, which can be frustrating. I have been throwing my burnt coils away as I did not know that they could be rebuilt. As far as me having rebuilding skills, that is a big fat NO lol. I lack the patience to fiddle with stuff too much, I like my stuff matter of fact and pretty much ready to go, plug and play if you will. My husband can build anything coil related, so he would be the one building my coils in any RTA or the protank coils. Can you link me to a place that gives good directions for rebuilding the Kanger coils? As far as Ohm's on these coils they are 2.0 Ohm's.

V,

Sorry it looks like your thread is getting highjacked.

If you are getting a burnt taste out of the package it might be that your are not letting your coils fully wick juice. After loading a new coil set your PV down for a couple minutes or take 3 or 4 pulls off your protank without pressing the power button. This will ensure your coils are wet and the juice has wicked properly.

When I was using Kanger coils out of the package I would get a low load once and a lossen my tank. Never made me happy and normally quickly got pulled and rebuilt.

If the Hubby is handy he can do it. If I can he can......

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e8FFhFYDd2Q

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cIoH-mOXKsc

Know these videos are just a baseline, Rip use's 28 gauge, I use 30 ga. Your husband can pick up Kanthal on ebay, he needs 1 - 1/16 or 5/64 drill bit and an ohm meter.

It may sound like a lot but it's not 100 feet of Kanthal and the ohm meter for under $30. I can recoil a protank in 5 to 10 minutes. It looks tough, it's not.

Your Protanks are good tanks, I have several PT 2's.

I know it sounds like a hassle but it's not once your husband finds his groove and for you the flavor and vapor production will be outstanding.

A Kayfun light with air flow control is real nice too. Much larger than your PT2 but it holds more juice.

I'm a starter myself, last cig on 2/1/14 but I did the research to maximize my success. I know 1/10 of what some folks here know but if I can help have the hubby message me.

You just need to fine tune a couple things and your experience of vaping can go to a much better level. cotton and rebuilds really improve everything about vaping, and factory coils just pain stink and are mostly a PITA.

I hope some of this helps.
 
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volume control

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Thanks VC. Yeah, I"ve seen the videos, but my chimney is just way too lose to do it that way. It's way harder than just popping the top off and flipping it upside down while I screw in the top. I would definitely lose more juice in the process than the extra 1/2 ml gained by bottom filling.


If the chimney is looser on the threads that would only make it easier, you just hold the chimney still with one finger while you unscrew and screw back in the base. Makes me wish i could show you in person, once you do it one time youre like WOW soooo much better. I love being able to rewick so easily
 

Tinkiegrrl

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I just got a clone Russian 91% from this place here to fullfill all your vaping needs at great prices for 25.00 He is a registered ECF Supplier. He had it to me within 2 days from ordering and is a great guy with great customer service.

Does the box say "Together the Best Corporation" or some such thing? If so, my guess is that that is a Tobecco clone, and I'm not very happy with them at the moment. Over the last two days I've spent hours and hours trying to get my husband's working right. Could have been a dud, and I could excuse one, but mine has some annoyances as well...
 
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