Russian 91% help, connection issues..

[Connor S]

So I got my russian 91% and built on it just as I did my russian. How ever I noticed the pin was just a little short for my provari so I unscrewed it a little to make it longer. However I noticed once I did this the play for where I screw down the coil becomes loose. Loose to the point where when I'm just holding the atomizer by its self and push on the pin it actually raises up the connection platform on top. This is causing me to get random and inconsistent ohms readings(ie sometimes it's 1.3 others it's more 2.5-6.4) very confused on why I can't just get a consistent reading.... Did I get a faulty r91%? Help?

 

[jackmormon]

Unscrew the the 510 pin all the way out. It screws into another screw type thing that holds the positive block (where you attach part of your coil) in place. Use a flat head screwdriver to tighten this piece until the positive block is stable. Then screw your pin back in. I have to loosen the 510 pin to make connection on a Provari with a Loki ring.

This is my only 1 and only complaint with my R91 and it is only when I use it with a Provari. Yesterday I built a V2 R91 which has a spring loaded 510 pin...totally solves the issue.

 

[Rangertrix]

Could you post pics of the 91 V2 please?

 

[Connor S]

Unscrew the the 510 pin all the way out. It screws into another screw type thing that holds the positive block (where you attach part of your coil) in place. Use a flat head screwdriver to tighten this piece until the positive block is stable. Then screw your pin back in. I have to loosen the 510 pin to make connection on a Provari with a Loki ring.

This is my only 1 and only complaint with my R91 and it is only when I use it with a Provari. Yesterday I built a V2 R91 which has a spring loaded 510 pin...totally solves the issue.

Damnn alright so unscrew it all the way? Then I should be able to see what you're talking about from there? And ....ty there's a V2 out when this came in less than a week ago

 

[carrielsal]

I ran into the problem with my first R91.

If you just tighten the screw at the bottom of the rba, it's not enough to secure the positive screw block. You may also have issues with the center screw coming loose when the rba is attached or removed from an APV causing intermittent shorts.
To secure the positive block remove the small center screw, #19. Hold the positive screw block to the negative screw block with a pair of needle nose pliers so it doesn't move, then tighten the center screw, #18.

 

[SkvLTD]

I believe my clone at least, simply has 1 long screw for the positive connection, so adjusting isn't exactly possible. There were a few that had that design instead of the 2 parts.

 

[Connor S]

I believe my clone at least, simply has 1 long screw for the positive connection, so adjusting isn't exactly possible. There were a few that had that design instead of the 2 parts.

I was all reassured and happy with all these responses, dying to get home n mess with it until I read this... Because when I unscrew the connection pin I see it unscrewing up top by the connection block... Is there a chance you had a clone of a clone (a clone of the r91% which is considered a clone as is of the kayfun lite)? Or...? -__-

 

[jackmormon]

Here is a pic. The kebotech facebook page has better pics. Looks like the V2 is also going to be offered in black, gold, and polished. I want a black one!!

The spring loaded 510 pin will be seen as an upgrade by some (especially Provari owners) and a downgrade for others. Haven't tried it yet, but it looks like the spring loaded pin can be replaced by a regular 510 pin. The little tool in the pic is for removing the spring loaded pin.

Not many other changes that I have noticed except the vape chamber and chimney tube are polished SS. I wish they would have taken a clue from Svoe Maesto on a recessed chimney o-ring. (Actually, SM took this clue from EHPro who did something similar beforehand on their KFL+ clone.)

 

[carrielsal]

I believe my clone at least, simply has 1 long screw for the positive connection, so adjusting isn't exactly possible. There were a few that had that design instead of the 2 parts.

The teardown I posted above is the Russian 91%. The center pin is 2 screws. The Russian 91% v2 has 1 spring loaded center pin.

 

[Rangertrix]

Does the fill screw have an o ring, and is it recessed?

 

[petemoss]

The teardown I posted above is the Russian 91%. The center pin is 2 screws. The Russian 91% v2 has 1 spring loaded center pin.

That looks like a very desirable feature. Wonder if they will make the spring-loaded center pin available as an upgrade? I often need to unscrew the 510 screw to connect and that can cause juice to seep out.

Rangertrix, my fill screw is not recessed and I need to really tighten it. No o ring.

 

[SkvLTD]

Yes, but clones do not. R91%, while a Kayfun clone, is a genuine and different RBA. A R91 clone is just that and designs vary. Mine has a uniform center pin as does the OP's. Mine sticks out a bit past the 510 threads making it a tight fit on my iTaste VV, but it still works and can be bolted down snug, so I've no qualms with it.

IF there's a vendor that sells spare parts, I'd get on that. Or just shim the pin somehow.

I will add that aside from a solid center post, my copy is otherwise pretty flawless. All threads are smooth and silent. It did whistle, but I drilled out the air hole a tiny bit and it cured that completely.