Russian 91 screw threaded to the block both swivel/turn on top of the insulator

[SeniorBoy]

Hello all,

I could sure use some advice. It's hard to describe but one of the screws on the base threads into the metal block which sits on an insulator. The screw threaded to the block both swivel/turn on top of the insulator before a build and after and it's a brand new unit purchased from a very reliable USA site. Please see pics below:



First micro coil was a bear and then a refill and a short since the screw and block both swivel on top of the insulator after the micro coil installed and shorts the micro coil during a refill. My first Russian 91 so is this normal and a fix? or a defective unit.

Thanks in advance.

EDIT: I changed this threads title so we can share more tips on the Russian 91 and avoid frustration.

 

[Nomoreash]

Looking at the pic that center tube is threaded into the block and it's a little loose, you need to tighten it. Unscrew the center pin from the connector end then you'll see the other end of that tube. hold the block in place and tighten that tube snug then replace the center pin.

 

[GratefulVaper]

It's supposed to do that for options while building BUT when you find where you want it, you should tighten it down for use. Hopefully someone with a Russian will be right along to confirm, on my Kayfun, I tighten it from the bottom. ..The screw is under (inside) the overflow resovaur...

 

[SeniorBoy]

Thank you guys. Wow. I love this place. BINGO! Up and running. My issue is the way it shipped to me from the B&M so I understand. Trust me, no work swivels.

 

[Firestorm]

Make sure to tighten that screw when you rebuild. You don't want it coming loose and causing a short.

 

[SeniorBoy]

Make sure to tighten that screw when you rebuild. You don't want it coming loose and causing a short.

Point taken and thanks again. Excellent idea. Just put: remove screw from post on bottom of Russian then tighten the separate screw which holds the block in place on my checklist for the next build. Even though the block screw is separate, better safe than sorry.

 

[bizzal]

confirmed. Mine came that way too and after 3 frustrating coil builds, i finally realized the center pin on the bottom can be fully unscrewed, leaving the center post/tube (usually will fall out and detach from the block) able to be tightened into the block. Be sure to try and adjust/tighten the center pin to the correct height the first time, as the center pin screw threads are kind of tight (on mine at least) and can loosen the center post/tube while re-correcting.

Aside from that, im running my 91% on a 1.7Ω 28g single micro coil, fired by an iTaste SVD @ 10-12 watts and absolutely loving the flavor and vapor production with this setup. Please be known i was previously using and rebuilding the Kanger PT2, mini, and PT3; and still having a hard time switching back to them while rockin the 91%. The Kanger tanks, especially the two larger ones have now moved into my 'on the go' kit, whilst the 91% is my at home tank, along with two RDAs. I must admit that the 91 seems to be VERY thirsty, in comparison to the Kanger clearos i was previously using. Could possibly be that the flavor is sooo good to me using my all day juice (GQs Royal Flush in 3mg nic) that i vape way more than i used to with the clearos...

Happy vaping all!

 

[bizzal]

forgot to add... I still have not used the bottom fill port... i have only top filled the 91...
i use the poly tank (semi clear) and just keep checking to when NO liquid is present during a horizontal tilt. There will be plenty of juice left absorbed in the organic cotton i use as wicking material. When i top fill, even when keeping my thumb over the air hole, some juice will still need to be purged after refilling. (purged = Turn upside down and gently blow, preferably into a napkin of some sort) I noticed the best performance and least amount of gurgling, when the cotton is stuffed AFTER screwing on the collar/chimney base, then gently packed to the height of the deck. (right at the level of the base of the block). Make sure to cover the juice ports with your wicking material well, or the necessary vacuum will not be created and you will get alot of leakage thru the airhole. Then replace the top chimney, body, and fill.

Another thing i noticed when i top fill: I have accidentally unscrewed (or partially unscrewed) the chimney base, due to the grip/pressure on the chimney against the O ring underneath that cap. So now i will check and re-tighten (if necessary) the chimney everytime i refill the tank. Lol, speaking of a thirsty 91%, i just vaped through over 80% of my tank while writing these two long winded posts!

hope these posts helped you and/or someone else...

 

[SeniorBoy]

forgot to add... I still have not used the bottom fill port... i have only top filled the 91...
i use the poly tank (semi clear) and just keep checking to when NO liquid is present during a horizontal tilt. There will be plenty of juice left absorbed in the organic cotton i use as wicking material. When i top fill, even when keeping my thumb over the air hole, some juice will still need to be purged after refilling. (purged = Turn upside down and gently blow, preferably into a napkin of some sort) I noticed the best performance and least amount of gurgling, when the cotton is stuffed AFTER screwing on the collar/chimney base, then gently packed to the height of the deck. (right at the level of the base of the block). Make sure to cover the juice ports with your wicking material well, or the necessary vacuum will not be created and you will get alot of leakage thru the airhole. Then replace the top chimney, body, and fill.

Another thing i noticed when i top fill: I have accidentally unscrewed (or partially unscrewed) the chimney base, due to the grip/pressure on the chimney against the O ring underneath that cap. So now i will check and re-tighten (if necessary) the chimney everytime i refill the tank. Lol, speaking of a thirsty 91%, i just vaped through over 80% of my tank while writing these two long winded posts!

hope these posts helped you and/or someone else...

I changed this threads title. Absolutely love love these tips. Thanks. A quick thought before I go to bed. I just could NOT reliably fill from the top. Yea I watched the vids a zillon times but it was hit or miss with me and I know what they say to due. So I filled from the bottom with a syringe and from what I have learned this is the ONLY way to fill the device with 4-4.5 ML and its clean and it works in my limited time with the device. I did not see an O ring on the fill screw on the bottom but I may have missed it. No leaks so far from the fill screw. Clean and reliable. No worries about the Chimney coming off as you mention and having to futz with the O ring which migrates from the top down to the chimney tube when you go to refill. The KF docs say to fill from this screw hole until the juice backs up a little which means it's filled. That's my next experiment since clearing a flood is easy and reliable.

Night all

 

[cope]

i had to remove the contact pin and tighten the center pin ..i use a wrench to keep the blocks on the deck in line while i tighten it
when i install a coil i put the + side on first after capturing the lead make it tight and then use a wrench to alighn the block if needed..could move while screwing it down then the negitive side and it's done...

 

[eda123]

i had to remove the contact pin and tighten the center pin ..i use a wrench to keep the blocks on the deck in line while i tighten it
when i install a coil i put the + side on first after capturing the lead make it tight and then use a wrench to alighn the block if needed..could move while screwing it down then the negitive side and it's done...

Exactly what I did and my block doesn't move at all. Take that adjustable pin all the way out, and tighten the screw below it all the way. Then screw the adjustable pin back in.

 

[SeniorBoy]

i had to remove the contact pin and tighten the center pin ..i use a wrench to keep the blocks on the deck in line while i tighten it
when i install a coil i put the + side on first after capturing the lead make it tight and then use a wrench to alighn the block if needed..could move while screwing it down then the negitive side and it's done...

Thanks. Never thought of that issue but it seems logical and wise. In the name of science LOL I did:

Hard for me to tell when the R91 is almost empty other than the obvious dry hit? Removed the fill screw on the base (no oring) and filled another 2ML flawlessly. OK, second test, Filled till the juice backed up in the fill hole and began to drip out of the tip. OK that means it's full of 4ML or more. Tissue to clean the extra juice from the fill hole and screw back. Cleared the flood via the air hole and back in business. No leaks so far.

HTH

 

[cope]

i like my 91 so much im gettin another when there stocked again. i never fill from the top i fill in the morning and it lastes me all day..if i have another mod kickin in the truck

 

[bizzal]

My 91% did not have an o ring on the fill screw either. I put one on from the spares that come with it but it creates too much of a gap in the screw head it was obvious it was not meant for the fill screw lol. just keep the fill screw tight and i assume there should be no leakage issues. wondering though, if one were to use a high PG based juice if it would leak through the threads? most if not all my juices are 50/50 or higher VG ratio, so far i have not witnessed any leakage in the 91%. Been using mostly the 50/50 blends though...

 

[crxess]

People worry me
I'm guessing the Op did not strip and clean the 91% on receipt?

Filling until Juice runs out the fill hole? - Supposed to leave a small air pocket to aid in establishing Negative pressure in tank.

 

[steel bender]

When i top fill, even when keeping my thumb over the air hole, some juice will still need to be purged after refilling. (purged = Turn upside down and gently blow, preferably into a napkin of some sort)QUOTE]

Something to try...

When purging, instead of blowing juice out into a napkin, turn it upside down with air hole up and vape through the extra juice. It should get pulled through the air hole back to the coil, this way there's no wasted juice.

 

[SeniorBoy]

People worry me
I'm guessing the Op did not strip and clean the 91% on receipt?

Filling until Juice runs out the fill hole? - Supposed to leave a small air pocket to aid in establishing Negative pressure in tank.

Thank you for your advice. I appreciate it and I'm not trying to be snarky. You and many others have far more experience than I. Yes of course I thoroughly stripped and cleaned my R91 on receipt. I do this for all my gear. I'm still learning and I was aware of the air pocket issue so my question is:

If I fill from the bottom till juice drips from the top then when I clear the flood doesn't this procedure produce the same small air pocket? If I fill from the bottom how due I determine I've left an air pocket without flooding?

Trust me, I'm not trying to nit pick. Just trying to learn the best way to service this delivery device.

Actually, I just stripped and cleaned again and this time I'm going to measure exactly 4ML when I fill from the bottom.

 

[Xcighippy]

My 91% did not have an o ring on the fill screw either. I put one on from the spares that come with it but it creates too much of a gap in the screw head it was obvious it was not meant for the fill screw lol. just keep the fill screw tight and i assume there should be no leakage issues. wondering though, if one were to use a high PG based juice if it would leak through the threads? most if not all my juices are 50/50 or higher VG ratio, so far i have not witnessed any leakage in the 91%. Been using mostly the 50/50 blends though...

I had an issue with my r91 leaking slightly at the fill screw. To solve this I took a cone shaped felt polishing wheel from my dremil tool kit and a little polishing compound and polished the inner countersink hole in the base. I think the leaking issue is due to imperfections possibly from a dull countersink when it was made. After polishing the hole the leak is gone.

edit to add; A countersink hole relays on the interference fit between the head of the screw and the tapered hole.The better the fit the better the seal.
A counter-bored hole Would relay on a o ring to make the seal as is the case with my clone kayfun +. Hope this helps.

 

[Mezrein]

I fixed my leak on both my KFC and russian by wrapping a little Teflon tape around the base of the screw.


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