Safe Lubrication for threading?
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Noalox is for connections between aluminum to aluminum or aluminum to another metal. It is not a lube, and pretty bad for moving parts that rub because it will act like sand paper pretty much.
It's great for a mod like the Reo and the bottom of it's spring connection to the body. It was also good for the Reo's firing pin, because when a smudge was applied to a filed down pin it would fill in the pits nicely to prevent arcing. It's fine for the something like the Reo's pin because, it's exactly that: a pin like contact. Noalox dries up, and you can just put a new blob of it on.
When I was using tube mods, I tried putting Noalox on threads before knowing any better. I also read of people doing it so... Quick fix, but really bad idea over all. It's a complete mess on threads over time. It also contains zinc particles (I think), and they literally act like sand paper on your threads. Over time, your threads will just get rougher and rougher. Noalox is especially horrible for fine/thin threads.
Use what the hardcore flashlight people use for threads and o-rings; Use Nyogel or it's generic counterpart "Super-Lube." This will keep your threads smooth, tear/pit free, conductive, and also keep your o-ring nice and healthy so it doesn't break down.
NyoGel Lubricant
Amazon.com: Super Lube Synthetic Grease with Syncolon Multi Purpose Lubricant 3 oz: Automotive
Clean the threads with alcohol, apply the lube. Done. If you want to spend more money on it, apply some Deoxit gold after cleaning and before lubing. But simply keeping things clean and lubed is pretty much fine.
As far as Provape officially recommending using Noalox on the Provari's threads.... yikes.
is nyogel safe to use on copper?
EDIT: looks like its not
http://www.super-lube.com/where-to-use-super-lube-ezp-160.html
"In what applications should Super Lube® not be used?
Extreme High Temperature: When temperatures exceed 600°F, very little base fluid oils remain to provide required lubrication. Solid additives such as lead, aluminum, copper or molybdenum are utilized.
Heavy, slow moving loads, especially with frequent starts and stops, require metal additives to handle the squeeze out of lubricant from the mating bearing surfaces. The metal additives are similar to those used in high temperature lubricants; lead, copper, aluminum.
High or pure oxygen environments: Although Super Lube® is categorized as non-flammable, it will burn. Oxygen accelerates the combustion process. If Super Lube® is used in a high oxygen environment, spontaneous combustion could occur."
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So as long as there arent any o-rings then petroleum jelly is fine?
I have a stingray x. that i use it on. I dont see any o-rings but there is a black thing on the switch that looks plastic/rubbery. doesnt look like an o-ring tho. Whats a good lube to use on copper?
I have a stingray x. that i use it on. I dont see any o-rings but there is a black thing on the switch that looks plastic/rubbery. doesnt look like an o-ring tho. Whats a good lube to use on copper?
I'm really not sure what's good for copper threads. The whole point of those synthetic lubes is to not mix/react with anything, not attract dust/dirt, stay put, be unobtrusive to electrical connections and lube moving parts.
The grey stuff that inevitably dries up into a flaky like substance? Yeah, pretty sure it was the Noalox.
You can smear peanut butter all over your threads and they will act like they are lubed as well at first... still going to dry up and get a bit powder like just like Noalox does. Make sense?
Noalox is for more permanent/non-moving electrical connections to ward against oxidation. It is not a lube. Because when you first apply it it is wet, it may act like a bit of a lube, but it's not.
For threads, you want them to remain as intact/like new as much as possible. Avoiding roughness and abrasions from use. That is it. Keep them clean of dust and dirt, and lube them.
Listen, it's not like using Noalox is going to break your mod. Noalox didn't break my old tube mods. It's just a damn mess for threads is all, and happens to not be so great for them too. Not an ideal application of the product, especially if you're looking to LUBE threads and keep them like new.
The thing is most flashlights are made from aluminum, with threads you think would actually truly benefit from applications of Noalox. The vast majority of flashlight people don't use it.. Why? 'Cause it's not good for constantly used/moving threads.
Noalox has it's uses with mods... especially one's like the Reo. But for threads; I really think it's just a bit of mis-information passed along and people have just been "going with it."
Like I said, I have used Noalox on all My PV/APV (and Flashlights) threads since about day one. Haven't had any problems with them.
And with the Exception of This Thread, I haven't heard of Anyone else having Problems either.
Exactly. It's silicone grease. No petroleum by products to eat any rubber or evaporate. The tiny little packages of bulb grease from autozone (silicone grease) are perfect. Super cheap, won't eat threads or o-rings, wont evaporate, and cleans up super easy with rubbing alcohol. I don't use it in places where ejuice can possibly get to it (tank sections) but all other threads get a light coat applied with a q-tip. Works great.
People have been using Noalox on ProVari since there has been ProVari. Never heard of anyone having a threading issue with theirs, or even PV-1s, which came before ProVari. I have never experienced dry flaking with the stuff, either. I only buy authentic Noalox, though...
For o rings I just lube with a bit of ejuice, I was thinking for the threads what about silica spray?
Forgive me if that is. Stupid lol
Forgive me if that is. Stupid lol
I agree although I was thinking silicone grease in a tube, high temp resistance, no conductivity, all round good grease when electricity is involved. A mod is a lot like a high powered led flashlight and silicon grease is used on the threads for those.
If you have access to food grade grease like from a food/pharmaceutical company I sure that would work fine as well. Clean up is easy, non-toxic. Look up Natolli Engineering I believe is the name, I'll check when I go back inside from break time to my pharmaceutical job lol.
Correction,
natoli dotcom is the place
food grade NLGI #2, but I think you need an account so that idea is out. Sorry about that folks.
Correction,
natoli dotcom is the place
food grade NLGI #2, but I think you need an account so that idea is out. Sorry about that folks.
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DeoxIT by CAIG is a great lubricant and oxidation cleaner. It is silicone grease with special stuff in it to remove gunk. I imagine it will be beneficial to conductive and non-conductive threads. Google will guide you to it locally or online. Luckily, my step-son is an EE @ TI and had some on-hand. I use it on my REO firing pin and on the threads of the negative spring screw. I also use it on my flashlight threads. I apply it with a toothpick to the female threads and swirl a tiny dab. The threading action when screwing the male threads in distributes the grease.
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