Safe Lubrication for threading?
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What about lubricating the air flow ring to the magma RDA? I noticed mine doesn't feel like it moves like it should. Kind of sticks?
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noalox. NO-aluminum-OXIDE
unless you have some goofy aluminum mod, this is going to make the problem go away for a week then come back worse than you've ever imagined.
after you've cleaned it, clean it again, then the tiniest amount of THIN oil will keep it good, until the next cleaning/oiling. I use a special machine oil for tiny SS parts.
anything greasy/creamy will attack dirt, this dirt will eventually ruin the threads.
unless you have some goofy aluminum mod, this is going to make the problem go away for a week then come back worse than you've ever imagined.
after you've cleaned it, clean it again, then the tiniest amount of THIN oil will keep it good, until the next cleaning/oiling. I use a special machine oil for tiny SS parts.
anything greasy/creamy will attack dirt, this dirt will eventually ruin the threads.
Lol a Long running inside thread joke?
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The zinc in noalox combinew with the carrier as it dries out. And it really is designed for use on aluminum. Nasty gunk when its dried out. Much better choice, No-ox-id. Used by power companies for years. There are testimonials about 50+ year old connections looking like brand new. Used for antenna connections by amateur radio buffs. An ounce would be several lifetimes worth so no need to purchase anything but the small size.
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Is that what I would use for the air flow ring on the magma?
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No-ox-id from its name is designed to be a barrier to all sorts of things to help prevent oxidation. Helps make it less susceptible to e-liquid. Just a touch of petroleum jelly is all you need for something like lock rings. But if you have No-ox-id handy its a nicer choice. And much better on the threads of the mod that conduct electricity.
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I'm not all that Familiar with a Magma.
But on something like an Air Flow Ring, I think I would just Clean it.
Noalox is for connections between aluminum to aluminum or aluminum to another metal. It is not a lube, and pretty bad for moving parts that rub because it will act like sand paper pretty much.
It's great for a mod like the Reo and the bottom of it's spring connection to the body. It was also good for the Reo's firing pin, because when a smudge was applied to a filed down pin it would fill in the pits nicely to prevent arcing. It's fine for the something like the Reo's pin because, it's exactly that: a pin like contact. Noalox dries up, and you can just put a new blob of it on.
When I was using tube mods, I tried putting Noalox on threads before knowing any better. I also read of people doing it so... Quick fix, but really bad idea over all. It's a complete mess on threads over time. It also contains zinc particles (I think), and they literally act like sand paper on your threads. Over time, your threads will just get rougher and rougher. Noalox is especially horrible for fine/thin threads.
Use what the hardcore flashlight people use for threads and o-rings; Use Nyogel or it's generic counterpart "Super-Lube." This will keep your threads smooth, tear/pit free, conductive, and also keep your o-ring nice and healthy so it doesn't break down.
NyoGel Lubricant
Amazon.com: Super Lube Synthetic Grease with Syncolon Multi Purpose Lubricant 3 oz: Automotive
Clean the threads with alcohol, apply the lube. Done. If you want to spend more money on it, apply some Deoxit gold after cleaning and before lubing. But simply keeping things clean and lubed is pretty much fine.
As far as Provape officially recommending using Noalox on the Provari's threads.... yikes.
It's great for a mod like the Reo and the bottom of it's spring connection to the body. It was also good for the Reo's firing pin, because when a smudge was applied to a filed down pin it would fill in the pits nicely to prevent arcing. It's fine for the something like the Reo's pin because, it's exactly that: a pin like contact. Noalox dries up, and you can just put a new blob of it on.
When I was using tube mods, I tried putting Noalox on threads before knowing any better. I also read of people doing it so... Quick fix, but really bad idea over all. It's a complete mess on threads over time. It also contains zinc particles (I think), and they literally act like sand paper on your threads. Over time, your threads will just get rougher and rougher. Noalox is especially horrible for fine/thin threads.
Use what the hardcore flashlight people use for threads and o-rings; Use Nyogel or it's generic counterpart "Super-Lube." This will keep your threads smooth, tear/pit free, conductive, and also keep your o-ring nice and healthy so it doesn't break down.
NyoGel Lubricant
Amazon.com: Super Lube Synthetic Grease with Syncolon Multi Purpose Lubricant 3 oz: Automotive
Clean the threads with alcohol, apply the lube. Done. If you want to spend more money on it, apply some Deoxit gold after cleaning and before lubing. But simply keeping things clean and lubed is pretty much fine.
As far as Provape officially recommending using Noalox on the Provari's threads.... yikes.
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Of course I just bought Naolox yesterday. Rob does recommend it on the Reos, and yes, Provape does also. And I saw Super T sells it.
Well, I'm glad I didn't put it on my copper Stingray. Should I be putting anything on its contacts? My threads are great (so far).
Well, I'm glad I didn't put it on my copper Stingray. Should I be putting anything on its contacts? My threads are great (so far).
I think for contacts Noalox won't do any harm. If anything, it will create a layer against oxidation if the contact isn't silver or gold plated. If your contact is silver or gold plated, just keep them shiny and clean.
It's the rubbing parts (threads) where Noalox makes no sense, and is actually damaging over time. I'm not sure what Noalox does to o-rings. I do know that anything petroleum based (vaseline) is a huge no-no for o-rings as that will eat them up.
Like I said: back in the day I drank the Noalox Kool-Aid and was applying it to all my threads. It was a bad idea in practice, despite all the "old-man wise tales" suggesting that I use it at the time.
It's the rubbing parts (threads) where Noalox makes no sense, and is actually damaging over time. I'm not sure what Noalox does to o-rings. I do know that anything petroleum based (vaseline) is a huge no-no for o-rings as that will eat them up.
Like I said: back in the day I drank the Noalox Kool-Aid and was applying it to all my threads. It was a bad idea in practice, despite all the "old-man wise tales" suggesting that I use it at the time.
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I bought some noalox then I read some horrible things about it. I havent even opened it. I ended up getting some vasaline and it works wonders. my threads are buttery smooth and my switch too. I clean and lube my mod once a week.
Hummm... Those are some Very Knowledgeable Vendors. Who deal in 1,000's of PV's.
Kinda think if there was a Problem with using Noalox that they would know about it.
You sure it was the Noalox that gave you problems? Or maybe it was the Material the threads were cut into Wasn't the Greatest? Or the Threads Weren't Cut all that well?
I have Used Noalox on all my PV's. Never have had a Problem.
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