Safest rebuild for protank II with cotton?

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letmein

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I don't vape myself but I am helping someone who has had cancer and is using e-cigs as a means of quitting regular cigs.

Therefore health and safety is of the outmost importance, even more important than flavour etc.

I've decided to use the protank II because of the pyrex glass tank, and so I've bought a lot of coils and plan on rebuilding 20 at a time with cotton. Here are my questions:

1) What is the best guide available for doing the rebuild with kanthal and cotton?

2) What are the indicators of she needs to pick a new coil when vaping with kanthal and cotton?

3) Which kanthal thread is the best for the safest vape (which gram wire)? I'm thinking she should be vaping at high ohm and low wattage (Vamo) is this correct?

4) What ohm should I be aiming at for safety? I'm thinking too low, will produce too hot of a vape and might burn the fluid to possible create something bad, so am I correct in assuming that around 2-2.4 ohm and a low wattage (below 6 perhaps?) is the safest way to vape?
 

Dampmaskin

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1) There are tons. Google protank cotton, or do the search on Youtube.

2) Vape diminishes, tastes bad.

3) 30 awg Kanthal A1 is good for protanks.

4) 2 ohms or slightly above is good. The aforementioned wire wrapped 13-14 times around something with a diameter of 1.5 mm should get you close.

I'm not sure why you focus so much on "safe" in the context of building coils. If you're afraid to overtax the battery, the Vamo is a regulated device, so the battery drain will depend on the power (wattage) it is set to, and little else.

Other than that, vapor is vapor, I believe. As long as you buy quality e juice and avoid flavorings with questionable health effects, like diacetyl.
 
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RuDawg7890

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1) I'd recommend Rip Trippers' youtube video on ProTank builds
2) Same as Damp says. Also, if she starts getting dry hits (kinda falls under the 'tastes bad' part), trick is using the right amount of cotton. Too little, it'll flood/leak, too much, dry hits.
3) I use 30ga Kanthal, 28ga should work too.
4) 1.8-2.2 ohms should be fine

As for the cotton, many recommend using organic cotton, boiled & dried before use. There's youtube videos for that as well. Sounds silly to watch a video on boiling cotton, but the one I watched showed rinsing the cotton balls after boiling to wash out any residues. Many others will say the boiling is not necessary. I found I had better/cleaner flavor with boiled cotton.

Best juice I've found so far is Velvet Cloud Vapor. 100% USP Kosher VG and organic all natural flavorings.
 

Ray Lopez

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I don't vape myself but I am helping someone who has had cancer and is using e-cigs as a means of quitting regular cigs.

Therefore health and safety is of the outmost importance, even more important than flavour etc.

I've decided to use the protank II because of the pyrex glass tank, and so I've bought a lot of coils and plan on rebuilding 20 at a time with cotton. Here are my questions:

1) What is the best guide available for doing the rebuild with kanthal and cotton?

2) What are the indicators of she needs to pick a new coil when vaping with kanthal and cotton?

3) Which kanthal thread is the best for the safest vape (which gram wire)? I'm thinking she should be vaping at high ohm and low wattage (Vamo) is this correct?

4) What ohm should I be aiming at for safety? I'm thinking too low, will produce too hot of a vape and might burn the fluid to possible create something bad, so am I correct in assuming that around 2-2.4 ohm and a low wattage (below 6 perhaps?) is the safest way to vape?

1.
Here is the build I use every time I rebuild the kanger heads.


2.
Bad taste, burnt hits, liquid is getting very dark or black, off tastes.

3.
I stick with 30g to 28g

4.
I typically stick to about 1.4 ohm to 1.8 ohm for the best performance at around 4.0v
 

Rickajho

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Thanks for the video.

As for 4. what would be the difference between 1.8 ohm and 2.4/5 ohm and say 4/5 watt (not volt, shes using a vamo)?

The lower you drop the resistance the hotter the coil gets, and faster. There are only so many ways you can build around the Kanger design - the small coil and tiny wick can only take up so much liquid so fast. If you build the coil too hot you risk it vaping off liquid faster than it can take up more - and burnt cotton is never a good thing.

A certain amount of this always comes down to personal preference, combined with the viscosity of the liquid you use. With a coil in the 2.2 ohm range at least you have room on either end to adjust voltage/wattage up or down to suit. If you build too low a resistance, on the low end of things you don't have any room to adjust the voltage down enough if needed.

I do better with "tell me how" than "show me how". For complete Kanger rebuild instructions that leave nothing to assumption see here: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/clearomizers/396220-kanger-protank-rebuild-33.html#post9844874
 

RuDawg7890

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Thanks for the video.

As for 4. what would be the difference between 1.8 ohm and 2.4/5 ohm and say 4/5 watt (not volt, shes using a vamo)?

A Variable Wattage device will adjust itself (by adjusting the voltage) to maintain the wattage you have it set at for the coil that's connected.
The 1.8ohm coil will use more current than the 2.4ohm coil, but the wattage will remain the same. The 1.8ohm coil will heat up faster(because it's using more current) than the 2.4ohm coil.
The faster the coil heats up, the sooner you get the full vape from the hit. A higher ohm coil will take longer to heat up, and then the vape will gradually build as you draw.

At 5watts, a 1.8ohm coil will use 1.67 amps
At the same 5watts, a 2.4ohm coil will use 1.47 amps
So the 2.4ohm coil uses less amps, will which technically give you longer battery time.

So that's the math & concept, but, as you can see, the .2amp difference may not even be noticeable in the case.
If we did the math for a 1ohm vs. say a 3 ohm coil, then you would see a significant difference.
 
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