Thank You. so as long as each battery is 20 amps or below i am good. the total of 40, if looking at it as 2 batterys at 40 amps, as long as im am under 40 for both im good. Am I correct?
Safety question
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Thank You. so as long as each battery is 20 amps or below i am good. the total of 40, if looking at it as 2 batterys at 40 amps, as long as im am under 40 for both im good. Am I correct?
Sorry I am confused on what you mean by "for your mod and it max wattage".
So basically even if I run 100 Watts on this mod im good regardless of what ohm coil I am running and everything. But if I up it up 120 watts you recommend that I get 30 amp batterys even though that I should be able to run it at 120?
I kind of like higher wattage because I take huge lung hits and it takes some power to get those. I never thought I would use this much wattage and power just to be satisfied but I like a warm to hot vape and some chuckin cluckin clouds.
So the ohms of the coil doesn't really matter?
edit- i understand now that the coil has nothing to do with regulated mods its about the regulator. got it.
so just for some brain picking right now i am on my calculator and i did 100/2=50/3.3=15.94 then after that.. how would I calculate it to find out the answer for 5 % extra for the loss or what ever it was called.
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Interesting reading. I tend to be extremely conservative while vaping, in the sense that I never exceed 50% of a given battery's max continuous draw limit. Right now, for example, Steam Engine shows me having anywhere from 60 to 62% amperage headroom on all the builds I'm currently using on my VTC Mini with LG HG2 cells. Even if I drop the voltage number down to 3.4V (about where the Mini shows empty) and drop the APV efficiency number down to 80%, it still shows me with an amp headroom of around 54% on my lowest resistance coils (~3 ohms) at my wattage (usually 25W). I know I could bump things up quite a bit, but I'm happy with the temperature, hit, and vapor production at this level, so why mess with it? I like to have a pretty vast margin for error too, just in case something does go awry. I'm not suggesting everyone should be this paranoid 
, just offering an observation from the other end of the spectrum.
, just offering an observation from the other end of the spectrum. Absolutely. There is no need to be paranoid when you can look into things. Headroom is valuable and I keep it in my mind constantly.Interesting reading. I tend to be extremely conservative while vaping, in the sense that I never exceed 50% of a given battery's max continuous draw limit. Right now, for example, Steam Engine shows me having anywhere from 60 to 62% amperage headroom on all the builds I'm currently using on my VTC Mini with LG HG2 cells. Even if I drop the voltage number down to 3.4V (about where the Mini shows empty) and drop the APV efficiency number down to 80%, it still shows me with an amp headroom of around 54% on my lowest resistance coils (~3 ohms) at my wattage (usually 25W). I know I could bump things up quite a bit, but I'm happy with the temperature, hit, and vapor production at this level, so why mess with it? I like to have a pretty vast margin for error too, just in case something does go awry. I'm not suggesting everyone should be this paranoid
As susan said in the 4th post, there are two different amps.
If you want to know the amps output of your batteries at 80 watts
that is 40 watts per battery
watts = volts x amps
using 3 for volts, that's
40 = 3 x amps
so amps = 13 amps.
If you want to know the amps flowing through the coil, it depends on the ohms of the coil;
watts = amps x amps x ohms
for 80 watts
amps = squareroot of (80/ohms)
Thanks for the help. I am starting to understand a little more now that I have did a couple of the math equations on my own with the help of MMW and you of course as well.
The only thing I am concerned about now is I am afraid that I will accidentally put the batteries in where both arent getting a good connection which might cause problems when firing and dont know if there is protection for this built in the mod or honestly what would happen.
For example right now I am i easy margin of safety at 75-80 watts, my box wont fire nothing below 3.3
so 75/2( 2 batteries) = 37.5/3.3(3.3 being lowest firing range on Istick) = 11.4 amps. With the extra 5 % = 11.96 amps, rounded up about 12 amps at 75 watts (with the 5%). So I am definately in a safe range. Although I had read that if both batteries arent getting a very good connection this could cause problems which I am scared of. I can't really see the bottom or the top of the batteries once they are in the box though. (I might try and use my flashlight next time I put batteries in to maybe see if I can see inside the box good enough to see that both positives and negatives are connecting good enough.) That is how I was going to make sure my batteries are getting good connection each time I put them in ( making sure top and bottoms metal parts were clearly on the positives and negatives).
I haven't had no problems yet putting them in and out and haven't had any bad readings from my device but it does keep me on my toes.
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I posted this a while ago to help people work out amp draw on batteries in a regulated mod. It also takes into account mod efficiency.
Regulated mod amp draw (watt mode)
Keep in mind to double battery voltage if you are using dual series batteries, also keep in mind that the lower the battery voltage the higher the amp draw so its best to start at the mods cut off point. e.g. if the cut off point for a battery in the mod is 3.4v in a dual series mod times it by 2. So 3.4x2=6.8v cut off.
Regulated mod amp draw (watt mode)
Keep in mind to double battery voltage if you are using dual series batteries, also keep in mind that the lower the battery voltage the higher the amp draw so its best to start at the mods cut off point. e.g. if the cut off point for a battery in the mod is 3.4v in a dual series mod times it by 2. So 3.4x2=6.8v cut off.
Thanks for the help. I am starting to understand a little more now that I have did a couple of the math equations on my own with the help of MMW and you of course as well.
The only thing I am concerned about now is I am afraid that I will accidentally put the batteries in where both arent getting a good connection which might cause problems when firing and dont know if there is protection for this built in the mod or honestly what would happen.
For example right now I am i easy margin of safety at 75-80 watts, my box wont fire nothing below 3.3
so 75/2( 2 batteries) = 37.5/3.3(3.3 being lowest firing range on Istick) = 11.4 amps. With the extra 5 % = 11.96 amps, rounded up about 12 amps at 75 watts (with the 5%). So I am definately in a safe range. Although I had read that if both batteries arent getting a very good connection this could cause problems which I am scared of. I can't really see the bottom or the top of the batteries once they are in the box though. (I might try and use my flashlight next time I put batteries in to maybe see if I can see inside the box good enough to see that both positives and negatives are connecting good enough.) That is how I was going to make sure my batteries are getting good connection each time I put them in ( making sure top and bottoms metal parts were clearly on the positives and negatives).
I haven't had no problems yet putting them in and out and haven't had any bad readings from my device but it does keep me on my toes.
I do not have an istick100, but one thing I do know about it is that it is one of the very few regulated mods that uses batteries in parallel; most regulated mods that use multiple batteries use them in series.
You should try it with 1 battery and see whether the mod detects that there is only 1 battery inside. If so then that's good
Ill try the 1 battery thing to see what it does. What I do know about the 1 battery thing is that, if you only use 1 battery in this mod, you can only vape up to 75 watts. So I would imagine before even testing the 1 battery thing, that it will detect 1 battery. But I will see what it does and get back on here.
Also how did you find out this mod runs in parellel, I don't even remember seeing this in the user manual..which is odd.. you have to know these things because that is like a safety hazard.. Because after learning all of these calculations for the different regulated mods / unregulated mods.. you have to know how to calculate the devices you are using. So I am glad you pointed that out to me. The only thing I know to do if I wanna know my amp draw is just take whatever wattage i am vaping at, divide it by 2. (2 batteries). Then take that number divide it by 3.3 (Lowest possible firing point on IStick100), then take that number and divide it by .95, which is the extra 5% for efficiency.
^ that is basically all I know. If I ever get any other boxes I will probably check back on here just to make sure I am in a safe range before vaping because like I said before there are alot of different calculations and numbers and safety ranges with batteries that I am very new to and it is kind of scary to me. I don't need half of my head blown off.
Thanks for the help peeps.
From the picture: + + at the top.
That is the IStick 100 Watt. I have the IStick 100 Watt TC (temp control). I think they are the same. I remember putting my batterys in both with the positives up top.
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