samsungs new 3000mah battery

[tony7432]

a australian site i do most of my ordering from just put up for sale and in stock ready for shipping samsung 30Q 15A 3000mah batterys for $9.95 each, here are the specs..anyone have any experience with these? im thinking of getting four of them to keep in rotation for my sig 150w, i already have four VTC5's so not sure if i even need these or if they would be a improvement in any way

1. Nominal discharge capacity: 3000mAh
Charge: 1.50A, 4.20V,CCCV 150mA cut-off,
Discharge: 0.2C, 2.5V discharge cut-off
2. Nominal voltage: 3.6V
3. Standard charge: 1.50A
4. Rapid charge: 4A
6. Max. continuous discharge: 15A(at 25°C), 60% at 250 cycle
7. Discharge cut-off voltage: 2.5V
8. Cell weight: 48.0g max.
9. Cell dimension
Height : 64.85 ± 0.15mm
Diameter : 18.33 ± 0.07mm 292

 

[suprtrkr]

I have no idea about the batteries, but the Ohm's Law Calculator informs me 150 watts at 4.2 volts (full charge on an IMR cell) would draw 35+ amperes, and at 3.5 volts (roughly the time most vapers take them out of the mod) the current would be 42+ amps, omitting I^2R losses. This far exceeds the capacity of 2 x 15 amp batteries, so I don't think I would do it. A two battery 50 watt mod would draw a shade under 15 amps; this would be safe (50% safety margin) for those batteries. Unfortunately, the trade-off for storage capacity in batteries is ampacity, or *huge* amounts of money. @Mooch informs me there are a couple of manufacturers who make high-current, high-capacity cells, but they're scary expensive, like hundreds of dollars each. But those new Samsungs would be fine in something like a Hanamodz V4D, a 40 watt 2 x 18650 mod.

 

[Completely Average]

I have no idea about the batteries, but the Ohm's Law Calculator informs me 150 watts at 4.2 volts (full charge on an IMR cell) would draw 35+ amperes, and at 3.5 volts (roughly the time most vapers take them out of the mod) the current would be 42+ amps, omitting I^2R losses.

Ummmmm.....

You are aware that 150W mods are all dual batteries running in series, right? There aren't any 150W mods running on a single battery.

That means the voltage is doubled. Two batteries at 4.2V each means a total of 8.4V being supplied by the mod. That means you're only going to be pushing 17.9A, and with each battery at 3.5V you're looking at 21.4A at 150W.

Of course you cannot actually run both voltages at 150W using the same coil. To hit 150W with 8.4V being applied you'll be running a .47ohm coil. To hit the same wattage with the same coil when the batteries have dropped to 7V you're relying on the mod to boost the voltage to 8.4V (Regulating the voltage), so you're not actually going to hit 21.4A draw since that would require dropping the coil resistance. You can run the batteries all the way down to 3.2V on that same .47ohm coil and you will not exceed that 17.9A draw on the batteries.

Standard ohms law calculations do not apply when a boost/buck converter is in use. A boost converter can supply more voltage than the battery has available.

 

[Mooch]

Surprisingly, the Samsung 30Q's are fantastic batteries at above 15A. You can see the results of my testing here:
Samsung INR18650-30Q 15A 3000mAh Bench Test Results | E-Cigarette Forum

The 30Q is an underrated battery IMO and can be safely used up to 20A. In fact, it lasts over 10% longer at 20A than the VTC5.

But if you're using that Sig 150 near full power then I recommend the VTC4. It has a higher cureent rating than the VTC5 and 30Q and is a better match for the high current levels at above 100W (for dual battery mods).

 

[tony7432]

i dont come anywhere near 150w..i usually avg around 50-65 watts

 

[Mooch]

i dont come anywhere near 150w..i usually avg around 50-65 watts

Get the 30Q's or LG HG2's then (they're almost identical) and enjoy the extra time between charges.

 

[suprtrkr]

Ummmmm.....

You are aware that 150W mods are all dual batteries running in series, right? There aren't any 150W mods running on a single battery.

That means the voltage is doubled. Two batteries at 4.2V each means a total of 8.4V being supplied by the mod. That means you're only going to be pushing 17.9A, and with each battery at 3.5V you're looking at 21.4A at 150W.

Of course you cannot actually run both voltages at 150W using the same coil. To hit 150W with 8.4V being applied you'll be running a .47ohm coil. To hit the same wattage with the same coil when the batteries have dropped to 7V you're relying on the mod to boost the voltage to 8.4V (Regulating the voltage), so you're not actually going to hit 21.4A draw since that would require dropping the coil resistance.

I was not, but it doesn't matter as if the batteries are in series the voltage doubles but the available amp loadings therefore do not and you would be limited to the amps in a single battery. @Mooch 's post below yours says that particular battery is excellent above it's 15 amp rating, but if you ask me, 17 amps is too much to safely ask from a 20 amp battery and at lower voltage it would be 21 amps by your calculations. I should also mention the post from mooch I quoted also recommends VTC4s in two battery mods for exactly this reason.

 

[Completely Average]

I was not, but it doesn't matter as if the batteries are in series the voltage doubles but the available amp loadings therefore do not and you would be limited to the amps in a single battery. @Mooch 's post below yours says that particular battery is excellent above it's 15 amp rating, but if you ask me, 17 amps is too much to safely ask from a 20 amp battery and at lower voltage it would be 21 amps by your calculations. I should also mention the post from mooch I quoted also recommends VTC4s in two battery mods for exactly this reason.

Yes, the amp draw is the same as from a single battery, but if the voltage is doubled then the amp draw is cut in half.

Didn't you bother to check that with your calculator?

Try this.

.5ohm coil at 150W

What's your voltage and what is the amp draw? 8.6V and 17.3A, right?

Now, see if you can change that voltage without altering the wattage and/or the coil resistance. You can't, can you? No matter how much those batteries are drained you're still giving the .5ohm coil 8.6V and drawing 17.3A to achieve 150W, right? The ONLY way you can change the voltage is to also change the wattage or change the resistance, right?

So your scenario is absolutely IMPOSSIBLE. It requires the coil resistance dropping as the battery charge drops. That's the ONLY way you can maintain 150W despite the voltage dropping. A situation that simply cannot happen in real life.


The batteries charge up a capacitor in the boost converter and it is the boost converter that is supplying the power to the atomizer, NOT the batteries. That's how regulated mods work.

If the batteries themselves were supplying the power to the atomizer you would have a mech mod where the wattage dropped with every puff you took.

 

[Mooch]

I don't think the Sig 150W uses a boost or buck-boost converter. I think it is buck only.

 

[TorontoOntario]

I got a few of them, I use them in my IPV4S at 60w. Great run time. I use my Sony 4s for the big boy stuff.

 

[suprtrkr]

The batteries charge up a capacitor in the boost converter and it is the boost converter that is supplying the power to the atomizer, NOT the batteries. That's how regulated mods work.

If the batteries themselves were supplying the power to the atomizer you would have a mech mod where the wattage dropped with every puff you took.

Have it your way. Presumably they repealed Law of Conservation of Energy while I wasn't looking. Back in the Old Skool days, people thought electronics could not enjoy efficiencies greater than 100% and be therefore capable of magicking power out of thin air. This must have changed. I was always taught the output voltage of the board is not meaningful in reference to the batteries as the batteries are only concerned with supplying the input voltage. Neither would the atty resistance be meaningful as it also only effects the output side as well. Before we used those newfangled elastic watts that get bigger on the board I had thought, if the board was putting 150 watts on the atomizer, regardless of what voltage it must use to get there, it must be drawing those same watts plus it's own losses from the batteries as the batteries are-- or were, back in the dark ages-- the only place the energy could come from. In addition to these low-tech concerns, the batteries used to be only capable of supplying voltage to the board at the battery output voltage, regardless what voltage the board converted it or how this was done.

So I'm sure you can understand my thinking. When using the old caveman watts that were all rigidly defined to be the same size and before boards could attain such large efficiencies, the batteries would have had to supply the total board output wattage plus board losses-- usually somewhere in the neighborhood of 5% or so, but this varied by board temperature and other factors before the repeal of the Second Law of Thermodynamics-- and furthermore do so at the battery output voltage. Thus, my thinking went, 105% of 150 watts is 157.5 watts. If the batteries are in parallel at 4.2 full charge volts, the amp loading on them would be 37.5 watts; and at 3.5 volts some 45 amps to deliver that wattage. If the batteries are supplying voltage to the board in series configuration, the appropriate figures would be 8.4V at 18.75 A and 7V at 22.5A. Heck, back then we had the quaint notion it was also not quite safe to load an electric circuit of any type at 100% of its rated capacity, with preferred loading varying between 50-80%, depending on the purpose of the circuit and how safe you wanted to be.

But hey, time marches on. Thanks for the update.

 

[Str8vision]

a australian site i do most of my ordering from just put up for sale and in stock ready for shipping samsung 30Q 15A 3000mah batterys for $9.95 each, here are the specs..anyone have any experience with these? im thinking of getting four of them to keep in rotation for my sig 150w, i already have four VTC5's so not sure if i even need these or if they would be a improvement in any way

1. Nominal discharge capacity: 3000mAh
Charge: 1.50A, 4.20V,CCCV 150mA cut-off,
Discharge: 0.2C, 2.5V discharge cut-off
2. Nominal voltage: 3.6V
3. Standard charge: 1.50A
4. Rapid charge: 4A
6. Max. continuous discharge: 15A(at 25°C), 60% at 250 cycle
7. Discharge cut-off voltage: 2.5V
8. Cell weight: 48.0g max.
9. Cell dimension
Height : 64.85 ± 0.15mm
Diameter : 18.33 ± 0.07mm 292

The Samsung 3000mAh INR18650-30Q is an excellent battery for those requiring less than 15amps, just $6.50 each at Illumn. I currently use the $5 Samsung 2500mAh INR18650 25R (20 amp), and have so many on hand it will be years before my next battery purchase.

 

[Boden]

The Samsung 3000mAh INR18650-30Q is an excellent battery for those requiring less than 15amps, just $6.50 each at Illumn. I currently use the $5 Samsung 2500mAh INR18650 25R (20 amp), and have so many on hand it will be years before my next battery purchase.

Illumn? Link please

Edit: found it 18650 Samsung 3000mAh INR18650-30Q High Discharge Flat Top

18650 Samsung INR18650-25R 2500mAh High Discharge FLAT Top

 

[Rabbit Slayer]

add a .com

 

[Str8vision]

Illumn? Link please

Edit: found it 18650 Samsung 3000mAh INR18650-30Q High Discharge Flat Top

18650 Samsung INR18650-25R 2500mAh High Discharge FLAT Top

I should have posted the links, sorry. I like to remind people there are "reputable" places to buy batteries where the prices aren't inflated. How about $6 Sony VTC4s 18650 Sony US18650VTC4 2100mAh High Discharge Flat Top - Batteries - Batteries, Chargers, and PowerPax Carriers With all the counterfeits around I can count the number of vendors I trust on a single hand and Illumn is my first choice.