School Me...on coil resistance please.

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DavidOck

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Jan 3, 2013
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Hard to say, taste is very subjective, and different flavors work best at their own power levels. So if the replacement juice is a different flavor, a higher Ω coil might be needed for it and for your current battery. The values given come in about 7 watts, and that's not normally enough power to burn the juice or wick (if wet!), but I do have some flavors in certain toppers that don't like much above 5... Or the coil could be a lot lower than marked. Without a meter, your recourse it to just try a different coil. It might be a bad coil.

Well, when you hit the fire button you start to vaporize liquid whether or not you're drawing. So some coming out can be expected. With force? Probably not - so again, maybe just a bad coil, of very low resistance, boiling of a lot of juice?
 

Blaron40

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Apr 18, 2014
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I have experience this with all the manger tanks I have. I personally feel the PT 2 produced greater flavor on my SID mod. I did not like the PT3 mini with the dual coil at 1.8 ohm. I always carried my PT2 at 2 OHM and liked it. However with an internal 1300 mAh battery you are going to be limited. I understand the equations but with voltage loss, battery health, and loss between the 510 and the atomizer I think you'd be pushing your battery to the limit.

Good luck. Might be time for you to pick up a lower end 18650 (VV/VW) mod.
 

Bored2Tears

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Sep 26, 2014
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Hi BT2,

At 4.2 volts that 2.5Ω coil should be drawing right at 7 watts, so should vape, but maybe not satisfactorily for you. Any lower voltage would of course also lower the watts consumed and give less vapor and flavor. Likewise, higher Ω coils will also result in lower power and vape. With a 1.8 coil you'll be hitting almost 10 watts. (9.8)

When you say the 2.5 "didn't work at all" - what exactly do you mean? As in NO vapor at all, or just weak? If no vapor, I'd suspect you didn't have a good connection between the topper and the battery. Not all coils are exactly the same, in their physical dimensions. A tiny difference in length, or a pushed pin (on the coil head or the battery) can result in a no connection situation.

I don't use any dual coil toppers, but there have been reports of some of them not working well on Spinner types, so that may also be the case with your X6. While the voltage would seem to not be a problem, it might be there's just not enough "oomph" to work well.

Really hoping that someone will chime in for me on this ^^^^^^^^^^. ALL I want is to hit a sweet spot with the equipment I have for now. Actually, I don't even care about sweet spot. Just want to find something that'll vape decently. Without flooding and without dry / burnt hits. To recap, I am using an Kamry X6 battery. Which is an odd duck . It is variable voltage but only at 3.6, 3.8 or 4.2 volts.

I am using Protank 2 primarily, but also have a Protank 3. I will leave the Protank 3 out of the equation for now.......so We only have two variables. Let's assume I am making decent contact on my battery. I also tested my battery output with a multimeter and it seems to be pretty close to what it should.

Here's been my experience with Protank 2:
1.8 ohm coils too hot / dry hits , cannot vape even at 3.6 V.
2.2 ohm coils vape fairly well at 3.8V, some flooding, some fussiness...but I'm usually ok if really careful about air draw. (I have an airflow control base coming to try and remedy the airflow issues). At 3.6, flooding almost certain. At 4.2, it will vape but tastes hot buring to me.
2.5 ohm coils very difficult for me to get vaping at any voltage. Flooding almost certain at 3.6, still prone to flooding at 3.8 and 4.2v.

Can anyone explain WHY I might be having so much trouble getting things to function within these limited parameters????

I read people rebuilding protank coils and vaping at 1.1 ohms, vaping at 15 Watts, with great results. Conversely, I read people rebuilding Protank coils at 2.5 ohms and even higher wattage or much lower than 9.

I realize my battery will only regulate in volts. But I am only trying to vape squarely in the middle of acceptable ranges, or at least that's what I think.

Am I primarily having a wicking issue? Should I simply try different wicking material than what comes in the prebuilt kanger attys? I guess I thought Kangers were using Silica wicks.

Someone please chime in and help me. I've had so many suggestions coming from so many directions that I just need to wipe the slate clean and start over. I want to make this equipment work first if I can.

If I need to start rebuilding Kanger coils , then I will do that. If I could get by with just re-wicking or trying different wicking materials, then I am game for that too.

Also -- I am vaping some liquids that are pretty tough on coils (cinnamon). I believe over time this increases my coil resistance, yes? Suggestions????

HELP. I know this can't be this difficult....and I simply don't believe that it's how I am vaping that is creating this issue.

If I need to abandon this cheap battery .......I'll do that. If I need to learn to rebuild coils, I'll do that. I suspect that the connection between my Kamry X6 and how it meets with the flush bottom Kanger PT2 might be creating airflow issues......giving me alternate vacuum problems or flooding. Based on how it SOUNDS. The mini Protank my wife uses and ALL my EVOD clearomizers perform pretty well on this battery.
 
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