Scratched bottom cup on Ody-ARGH

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martinc

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Ok,vent time.

After about $20 worth of juice on the floor,1 scratched cup (its always jammed,even if I dont tighten it,had to use plier with tape but it went through since its like fused to the GGTS base) I am getting a bit antsy about the expansion kit.

The flooding,I could barely live with it,but the fused parts...

Must be incompatible threading or something (everything greased everytime I take a part off),I dont see how them 2 parts can get jammed like that.
Coarser threads would be better I say;now I cant just slide a microfiber over my ody anymore :glare:
 

martinc

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The ody base cup on the new GGTS base,I`ve taken a look with a 60X magnifier and no cross threading occured...they just stuck solid :(

All is well now,I can unscrew them apart easily but I scratched both parts in the process....

I need new ones,its a sacrilege to see my Ody all sanded up...complete heresy :laugh:
 

Zogem

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martinc

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Yup,so am I;

Toothbrush them,prep them,lube them.

Magnifying glass stll shows well stuck metal particles fused here and there in the threads though.

Worked some out in a rubber vise with a fine pick but some are really fused there;I also noticed some rough or broken threads edges,but need 60x to see that.
 

Para

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Providing that we all have lapping compound at home and know how to use it as well as understanding the long term effect of the process and what to do about it.

Not sure what process you are talking about, but I do this:

Vaseline or penetrating oil = lapping compound
Place on threads and work the item back and forth = how to use
5 minutes max to clean/polish threads = long term effect
Clean item = finished
 

Tgoode

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Lapping compound contains grit
I agree wih Martin. Commercial lapping compounds contain a fine grit in an oil or grease base. There are household things that may be used as improvised Compounds, such as toothpaste or baking soda. These are generally ineffective as the abrasives are too fine and soft. Usually for valve lapping one would start lapping with a ~300 grit carborundum, and go progressively finer. For threads, you should probably go with 500 grit or finer.

When you get down to it, if the parts were correctly made they shouldn't need lapping.
 
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Rick.45cal

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When you get down to it, if the parts were correctly made they shouldn't need lapping.

SS is a tricky beast to finish lapping threads. SS typically undergoes "work hardening" while being machined, Industrial lubricant or not during the process, sometimes very small thin metal shavings like to stick, Stainless steel is notoriously bad about this, it LOVES to stick to itself, more so than other metals/ tool steels etc.
 
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