When I put it on a reader it reads .11 and doesn't move if I touch it. And I have not messed with the resistance lock feature yet, I thought that was just for bad fluctuation readings.
Hmm interesting, I might have to try one of these twisted ni k coils. Is that a general rule to use a smaller gauge knthal than nickel?
Good, that means the connections in the posts are stable and you should not get much resistance fluctuation in use. The problem IMO is your coils are out of calibration with the mod.
I don't know why that's the case, but your build numbers and your measured resistance are off by 20-30% depending on how many wraps you actually have and that may indicate an issue. It could be the build (high resistance in the post contacts with the wires), the mod, or the atty. Let's assume it really is 0.11 ohms.
Running the coil build through the Steam Engine coil calculator gives me a heat flux of 160 mW/mm² at 60 watts. That is not too high and IMO with wet wicks should handle a few seconds at 60 watts without any air flow and not need to have the power reduced to 20 watts to avoid going over 450F. Even if the coil is really 0.08 ohms, the HF would still be reasonable at 220.
I would do a wick singe test to check the calibration. Take the wicks out, flush the juice off the deck and the coils with water and dry the deck as best you can without damaging the coils. Blow it off to get the last water droplets. Turn the TC down to say 350 deg and fire the atty for a few seconds. If the coils start to glow stop immediately, that means the mod is not in TC mode which you'll need to fix before continuing. If the wires heat up with no glow leave the power on for about 15 seconds or until the coils are dry.
Put cotton in one coil being careful not to let it get even one drop of water on it. Put the temp to 360 and fire it for say four seconds. Slide the wick over a bit and check for slight singing (slight brown discoloration) where the coil was. If there is none increase the temp by 20 and repeat. Dry cotton will start to singe at around 410 deg. If it singes at a mod setting of 380, the wire temp is actually 410 so if you set 450 the mod will actually start to reduce power at a real wire temp of 480 deg. If it singes at 440, the wire is actually 410 so with a set temp of 450 will actually start reducing power when the wire is only 420.
Once the cotton has juice on it it will not singe at 410 anymore because the juice will never go away completely and will cool the cotton at least a bit even when you vape it almost dry. I've vaped a few wicks dry at 450 deg with not even a hint of dry hit.
If it singed at 440 and you want to set 450 for vaping, compensate by setting 480 and TC will activate at 450. Hope that makes sense
If you want to do it right, you'll need to figure out why the calibration is off and fix it. Either way will work though, so if you just want to get things going there is nothing wrong with compensating. I do it all the time with my DNA40 because I run titanium so the calibration is off from the get go and there's nothing I can do about it.
Also make sure you have the air flow options set up right on the Velocity and you're doing lung hits when you vape. If you don't do that you'll find at 60 watts TC will kick in while the wicks are still fairly wet.
