Seeking knowledge from Experienced Vapers

[Delro]

Right now I have the Kanger subbox Mini 50W, it's great. I'm considering upgrading to a higher wattage box mod. The two that I have heard good things about is the Sig 150 TC and iPV3 165W. A few questions - What is the advantages of having more power besides the obvious higher temp. Has anyone had experience dripping with these mods and how was it? Why would someone want .5ohms vs 1.5? I know these are all questions that have been answered at one point or another, but asking it here I can interact with people's answers and together we can brainstorm my next setup Sweet Smokes - Del

-To Drip or not to Drip?

 

[shannon walker]

I use a subtank mini on a istick 50w and vape 40 watts or so with a twisted 26 gauge coil. 5 ohm. And I vape a vertex rda with 2 .6ohm coil for .3 ohms total and my highest watt mod is a 80w cloupor gt I vape it at 80 watts and kinda wish I had just a bit more power 100 watts would probably be plenty for that build. And I find it easier to build and wick micro coils than macro coils and takes less wire and cotton. It's all about how you want to vape really. There are some tanks out there that 50 watts just won't power well. If you like lots of vapor and flavor and clouds a high watt mod and an rda might be for you, unless you like high ohm coils then 50 watts is probably plenty.

 

[edyle]

Right now I have the Kanger Subbox Mini 50W, it's great. I'm considering upgrading to a higher wattage box mod. The two that I have heard good things about is the Sig 150 TC and iPV3 165W. A few questions - What is the advantages of having more power besides the obvious higher temp. Has anyone had experience dripping with these mods and how was it? Why would someone want .5ohms vs 1.5? I know these are all questions that have been answered at one point or another, but asking it here I can interact with people's answers and together we can brainstorm my next setup Sweet Smokes - Del

-To Drip or not to Drip?

1: advantages of having more power:
(more power does not mean higher temperature; more power to the same coil would mean higher temperature; but a bigger coil would require more power just to get started)
More power means more fog.
More power also means you use up liquid faster, and drain batter faster.

2: 0.5 ohms vs 1.5ohms.
Ohms isn't everything.
Wire gauge (thickness), and single coil versus multicoil are important.

 

[Delro]

Thanks for breaking that down for me! Anyone running the Wulf Hellhound mod box and RDA??

 

[IMFire3605]

I have the Sig150w as well as a Project Subohm Edition IPV3 (150watts not upgraded for 165). Rarely, and I mean rarely am I above 80watts with either one, and those instances it is on one of my Patriots with a dual clapton coil, needing the extra wattage to heat the coils. There are those that run 80plus all day long, personally I can't do it, way to hot for me, if I can't chuff for a good 5 minutes, the build is just way to hot to be enjoyable to me. It is all a matter of what you are wanting, at around 40-60watts where I normally drip at, both mods the batteries last me about a day, day and a half, go higher the run time drops, so extra battery run time at lower watts is a plus, and for those times you feel sadistic, you got the power to go up if you like.

Both mods are solid units, take a lot of abuse, and most make them their daily driver work horse

 

[VaporDaze]

I actually have the Sig150 TC with a Crown tank and ni200 coil in it right now for work today. It's a great mod, temp control does its job of not burning my coils and giving me amazing flavor and good vapor. Only problem with this for dripping is it has these grooves that run around the outside edge of the mod down to the bottom, so when you overfill and the rda leaks, it goes into these cracks and it's a pain to clean out. I use an original sig150 for dripping just because of that

 

[papergoblin]

I had the IPV 3 it was solid just had a friend wanting it more than me, lol. I love mech mods but that's just me. I finally needed to replace my ohm meter and went with the smok m80 plus. I rarely go below .5 and never below .3 so it works for me.

If you go with a high power mod and don't use the power, you get a long battery life. My IPV 3 could go for 3 days, since I never went over 50ish watts.

 

[Boden]

A few questions - What is the advantages of having more power besides the obvious higher temp.

More than 60W...
Bragging rights (misguided)

Has anyone had experience dripping with these mods and how was it?

Same as a 40W mod.

Why would someone want .5ohms vs 1.5?

They dont understand that on a regulated power supply 40W is 40W regardless of the resistance. Most think large wire has more surface area than small wire but if you wrap two coils of the same ID and width. One using parellel 28 gauge and one with single 22, the 28 gauge coil actually has more wire/wick contact area, requires less power, heats up faster, wastes less energy, pops and spits less,

Then again parellel coils are hard

Now if you want to be able to brag that you vape at silly wattages you may need to make a low resistance coil because mods are amp and voltage limited. The amp limit is hit by building too low and the voltage limit id hit by building too high a resistance.

Then again, you can make small wire (low mass) large surface area coils by using parellel configurations to get low resistance.

 

[papergoblin]

More than 60W...
Bragging rights (misguided)

Same as a 40W mod.



They dont understand that on a regulated power supply 40W is 40W regardless of the resistance. Most think large wire has more surface area than small wire but if you wrap two coils of the same ID and width. One using parellel 28 gauge and one with single 22, the 28 gauge coil actually has more wire/wick contact area, requires less power, heats up faster, wastes less energy, pops and spits less,

Then again parellel coils are hard

Now if you want to be able to brag that you vape at silly wattages you may need to make a low resistance coil because mods are amp and voltage limited. The amp limit is hit by building too low and the voltage limit id hit by building too high a resistance.

Then again, you can make small wire (low mass) large surface area coils by using parellel configurations to get low resistance.

I think people also forget that the .5 ohm and such came about when mech mods were about the only option. We had no choice but to build lower to get a good vape.

The old cartos at 2.0 ohms just weren't that good on a mech mod, lol. Today I think a lot of people get the blended knowledge of mech and regulated but don't fully realize it. The way most people start out now or transfer to a more advanced device is completely different than it was a couple of years ago.

Now I'm not saying that is a bad thing, its actually quite good. The advancements have made vaping more of an option to people, especially since many don't want to learn about batteries and such.

Just wait till people start vaping on temp control as a norm and try to figure out about kanthal.

 

[Margucci]

it all depends what you are looking for. i find the sweet spot for coils is 0.3-0.5 ohm. you dont need ridiculous wattages to vape and get good flavor and there is a large selection of tanks and coils in that range as well. another added benefit is that you can use a single 18650 mod to drive them. my evic vtc mini was just firmware upgraded to push out up to 75W and i couldnt be happier to use that thing as a walking around vape in power mode (temp control is still a nightmare). i dont get the greatest battery life but in my situation thats ok. for home im waiting on slowtech to deliver a smok xcube 2. looking at power for price it is the yardstick at 150W for about $50. temp control has some issues but they are manageable. however, there are many options for mods around the 150W range which will drive whatever you want and come with tons of features as well.