the sentinel m16 is by far the best clone I have tried so far!! I would recommend any one who want a high end mod at a good price, the. Sentinel is where it's at!!!!!
Sentinel M16 clone
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I've got the all-brass clone. Smooth as silk 510, threads get a lil tight if I screw them in too far, but that doesn't really create any problems.
The one thing I've noticed is that gunk builds up very quickly on the middle-section threads, and I believe that's impeding voltage flow so I make sure to clean em every few weeks, as well as the +/- pins.
The one thing I've noticed is that gunk builds up very quickly on the middle-section threads, and I believe that's impeding voltage flow so I make sure to clean em every few weeks, as well as the +/- pins.
I have the Hcigar clone of the M16 from 101vape.com, and it's lovely. I was having the same problem with the firing pin coming loose, due to being unscrewed a little every time I used the locking ring. I figured tightening the pin onto the button would solve the problem, but with the pin screwed down all the way, the button won't push the pin up far enough to make contact with the battery. I googled the problem and found a comment on fasttech with a solution; the guy said to put a tiny piece of crumpled up aluminum foil inside the firing pin, smushed down into the bottom of it. This allows you to tighten the pin onto the button so it won't unscrew. I tried it and it worked perfectly! The foil doesn't need to get into the threads or anything, and it allows tightening without letting the pin get so low that it won't fire.
I got the aluminum+brass one from FT, it's very nice. Wish I spent a couple extra bucks and got the all-brass, but the aluminum makes a nice looking mod.
Also got the Private V2 (brass/stainless/copper) and the PH22 (Stainless and brass). I like all 3 of them; each has their advantages.
I find the throw of the button a little tiring on the M16, it's a good pinkie workout! Also, I'm a little leery of the aluminum 510 threads, but I put a 510-ego adapter on it and it's done fine.
I don't like the reverse-thread on the V2 locking ring - especially when switching back and forth with the M16 (which is not reverse-threaded!)
The PH22 looks awesome, and I like the side button, but there's no lock. Doesn't seem to hit quite as hard but I haven't cleaned the contacts yet.
All 3 are great mods though; this stuff is just nit-picking.
Also got the Private V2 (brass/stainless/copper) and the PH22 (Stainless and brass). I like all 3 of them; each has their advantages.
I find the throw of the button a little tiring on the M16, it's a good pinkie workout! Also, I'm a little leery of the aluminum 510 threads, but I put a 510-ego adapter on it and it's done fine.
I don't like the reverse-thread on the V2 locking ring - especially when switching back and forth with the M16 (which is not reverse-threaded!)
The PH22 looks awesome, and I like the side button, but there's no lock. Doesn't seem to hit quite as hard but I haven't cleaned the contacts yet.
All 3 are great mods though; this stuff is just nit-picking.
I put lock tite on mine, personally I couldnt tell a difference before and after hit wise. awesome mod for $16 and hits just as good if not better then my friend authentic chi you and my brother nemesis clone. Keep wanting to buy a new clone to play with but havnt a hard time justifying it.
Great advice! I just got my HCigar M16 today, and noticed it wouldn't fire with the firing pin screwed all the way down. That was disappointing, since my brass Sentinel V3 clone slowly unscrews if the pin isn't screwed all the way down (not an issue with that one since it still fires when screwed down).
I figured there would be an easy fix, and here it is! I was actually looking for advice on the way over-tight floating pin when searching for Hcigar M16, so back to the search.
I absolutely love my Hcigar Sentinel. It's the stainless steel version. Threads are buttery, button is smooth but does slip around like everyone has been saying. Has a nice weight to it and it's very comfortable in hand.
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I picked up an M16 clone a few weeks ago and so far I love it, but has anyone else had issues with the threads on the inside of the tube tearing the shrink wrap on batteries?
I'm using sony 18650's
I'm using sony 18650's
I haven't had any issues with mine. Is it tearing them inside the mod or when changing out batteries?
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Check out this fix for the Atro button and see if you think it would be a better fix for the M16 button problems: How to improve the button of the Astro mod by Kato - YouTube
It's tearing them inside the mod, it looks the the shrink wrap is getting pinched in the threads when tightening the top and bottom caps.
Interesting... the only part other than the firing pin and the base piece that it makes contact with is the brass inner sleeve, which doesn't have any threads. If it's only making 2 lines around the battery then you could try sanding the inner edges of the brass and see if that helps. There shouldn't be any threading inside that tube. Any way I could get a description of the effected area or possibly a picture?
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I would think that would work good. Would also shorten the throw a little if someone wants that.
Just found out my hybrid Sony VTC3 battery works with the pin screwed down all the way. The bottom sticks out a small amount on that batt, kind of an oddity but a benefit for the M16.
That would definitely be nice. Wonder if it's the same on the vtc4?
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I got my hcigar clone today. So far I love the thing. It's my first mech and I think I made the right choice.
I had a tearing problem in the beginning. The two vent holes in the middle brass section had burrs on them. These burrs cut my batt shrink wraps. I sanded the inside to get rid of the burr with a dremmel. But you can use sand paper too. Just wrap it around a marker or something to reach inside. On yours, if you have burrs on the mottom, same fix. Burrs are created from the machining process that weren't cleaned up properly.
Had the same problem so I just put a tiny sliver of electrical tape across the threads and it hasn't budged since.
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