SERIOUS MECH MOD HELP

[ajdudet]

so I have done all my research and I believe I got this right but I need some serious help from an expert. what I plan on getting is
-Samsung 25r 18650 batteries. (What is a good charger for this?)
- A Dimitri Mechanical Box mod
- Kanger subtank which will be running at 2 ohms.

will this set up work? and what is a good recommended charger? I planned on getting this
Amazon.com: Nitecore i2 Intellicharge Charger for 18650 AAA AA Li-Ion/NiMH Battery: Home Improvement

also, I do not plan on building coils but if I do what ohms should I not go under? Please please please help.

 

[Susan~S]

If you are not planning on building your own coils you are better off with a variable v/w mod.

With an unregulated mod the only way to "fine tune" your vape is to build a new coil (or install a different stock coil). With a variable v/w regulated mod (and its buck/boost circuitry) you can "fine tune" with a push of a button.

On an unregulated mod your voltage drops as you vape, with a regulated mod this does not happen. Your first hit is just as good as your last hit.

 

[nkr501]

If you are not planning on building your own coils you are better off with a variable v/w mod.

I agree with this to a degree. I have seen people use tanks on mech mods, but its not recommended. The nitecore charger is an excellent charger though. I personally use that one and it stops charging once the battery is fully charged so you SHOULDN'T have to worry about over charging.
If mech mod is the route you wanna go, then be weary that you might end up getting more dry hits since you can't control the wattage of your device and tanks can only wick so fast.
If you do decide to build coils, then try to keep your ohms no lower than .25ohms at MAX. I'd even venture to say stay around .3ohms

 

[TruSound]

Not a big fan of the bottom screws for adjusting battery rattle on the Dimitri, you might want to consider an inexpensive regulated compact box mod, if it's your one and only you'll want something a little more pocket friendly, the Kanger SubTank mini is a very good choice for sure as well as the battery and charger.

Have a look at the 75watt IPV D2, it's extremely compact, quick batt changes with no tools required and it uses the highly touted YiHi chipset with titanium or nickel priority settings in temp control, they're 49 bucks.

 

[madangus]

The sigelei 150 is also nice and a bargain right now for about 70

 

[ajdudet]

thank you so so so much

I agree with this to a degree. I have seen people use tanks on mech mods, but its not recommended. The nitecore charger is an excellent charger though. I personally use that one and it stops charging once the battery is fully charged so you SHOULDN'T have to worry about over charging.
If mech mod is the route you wanna go, then be weary that you might end up getting more dry hits since you can't control the wattage of your device and tanks can only wick so fast.
If you do decide to build coils, then try to keep your ohms no lower than .25ohms at MAX. I'd even venture to say stay around .3ohms

thank you so so so much. I was so sure about my buy until some idiots at a smoke shop started yelling at me. my buddy has the same set up so im just making sure im not getting into something stupid. I pan to build my coils in the future although this will be my first mech mod. I understand ohms law and all that good stuff

 

[suprtrkr]

@Susan~S has the right of it. Mech mods really are for coil builders as there is no other way to adjust the vape. Having said that, I'll try to answer your questions. The Dimitri is a series mod, meaning the voltage is doubled while available amperage is limited to that of one battery. With Sammy 25Rs, this would be 8.4v and 20 amps. I like to leave a 50% safety margin on my batteries, so I think your safe loadings would be 8.4V at 10 amps. Reference to the Ohm's Law Calculator tells me resistance producing a 10 amp draw at that voltage is .84 Ohms, and this would be your lowest safe resistance. FWIW, I am a mech modder from way back, and I would never put 25Rs in a mech, in case of an auto-fire or stuck button. I run Sony VTC4's in all my mechs-- in all of everything, in fact-- because they can be operated to 30 amps without excessive temperature rise, according to @Mooch 's cell selection chart. I view that as a useful safety issue, and am prepared to tolerate the loss of 400mAh storage capacity per battery in order to have it. The Nitecore charger you have selected is a good one. I have never had one, but a number of people whose opinions I respect do, and they tell me it's a good piece of gear. Again FWIW, I use the Xtar VC4, and I can recommend that, or it's little brother, the VC2.

All that said, Susan is still right: buy a regulated mod. I am very afraid you will be dissatisfied trying to use factory made, and thus nonadjustable, coils on a mech.

EDIT: I have lost my mind along with my manners apparently: Welcome to the board.

 

[suprtrkr]

I agree with this to a degree. I have seen people use tanks on mech mods, but its not recommended. The nitecore charger is an excellent charger though. I personally use that one and it stops charging once the battery is fully charged so you SHOULDN'T have to worry about over charging.
If mech mod is the route you wanna go, then be weary that you might end up getting more dry hits since you can't control the wattage of your device and tanks can only wick so fast.
If you do decide to build coils, then try to keep your ohms no lower than .25ohms at MAX. I'd even venture to say stay around .3ohms

No offense, but .3 is far too low. The Dimitri is a series mod.

 

[nkr501]

Didn't realize it was series, that was my bad. I should have researched the mod before posting.

 

[suprtrkr]

Didn't realize it was series, that was my bad. I should have researched the mod before posting.

I would agree with you if it were a parallel box...

 

[nkr501]

I'll wrap this up with the moral is go regulated. They are generally safer and you can fine tune your vape. Thanks for the piggy back on that one @suprtrkr . I don't have experience with the dimitri myself, so I was def in the wrong on that one.

 

[sparkky1]

Xtar VP2 charger
start off with 1.5 ohm and work your way down to what ohm / flavor / cloud production suits you best, remember lowering your ohms and raising your wattage will automatically raise your nicotine level, so drink more than usual amounts of water, sounds weird but you'll thank me later.
Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators

 

[MattyTny]

Looks like you've got some good responses already, but I'd like to chime in to support.

I also recommended a regulated to start, if you're into the boxes you have many choices. Just an easier device to maintain compared to a mechanical. The nitecore is a good charger, but the Xtar as sparkky said is excellent too, I'd choose that over the nitecore is price isn't an issue.
Authentic AW Batteries - RTD Vapor use this site for batteries and chargers

I'd also make sure you have an ohm meter, this site is a great choice for them. I have the ultimate and it's great. USA OHM METERS

If you really want a mechanical device I'd suggest getting one after getting regulated that uses 18650 batteries. I'd get a respectable single battery tube clone and a RDA or RTA. There's a lot to be aware of like cleaning to ensure proper usage, making sure you're clear of hard shorts, and what atomizer 510 pins you don't want on a mechanical.

 

[ajdudet]

I have multiple regulated box mods im just ready to take the next step.

 

[josdanarm]

I am a builder not a fan of pre-made coils however I have a friend who swears by the subtank mini and decided on the subbox mini kit. He has the batteries and charger but if he didn't I would recommend the nitecore line and LG hg2 batteries. I have aniitecored2 and um20 and use the hg2 batteries in my ipv3 li and they last forever. My mech mods only get the Samsung 25r batteries but I build very low sub .1 even and they hold up nice. If you never plan on building anything lower than .2 any 30 amp will do just fine. Hope this will help out to.

 

[nkr501]

I have multiple regulated box mods im just ready to take the next step.

Check out the Wotofo Phantom. Its a single battery tube and has a hybrid style top cap and standard top cap included so that you can use tanks with no issues. Plus, it hits in beast mode. The hybrid top cap makes the atty make direct contact with the battery, so I wouldn't try it with tanks or anything with a fixed pin.
Also, remember that there is no next step once you dial in what works best for you.

 

[roxynoodle]

I think you should get the Subox kit. You get your Subtank mini and a matching regulated mod.

Honestly, mechs don't work well with tanks that use factory coils. They really are best with rebuildable attys. And a series mod really won't do well with a Subtank.

Edit: just read you have regulated mods.

Stingray X clone is $15 at Vaporrange. Use the regular top cap, not the hybrid connector with the Subtank.

 

[josdanarm]

Yes stick to regulated at least for now. I own an ipv mini v2 and ipv3 li and love them both and for subtanks you don't need much more than that. 101vape.com has the sub box kits cheapest I've seenaabout 55 shipped I believe.