Severely muted flavor

Status
Not open for further replies.

latexyankee

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Nov 18, 2010
294
135
Columbus, Ohio
Well I got a pretty good working setup on my griffin but no flavor. It doesnt taste bad, just tastes like nothing at all. For some perspective I canswitch to a vivi silica head and I get amazing flavor compared to the genny. Im thinking its a wicking issue cause vapor seems down as well. Also I believe it started after I switched o rings to line up the air hole. Any thoughts? The o ring is super thick and I really have to twist it down when lining up. But I was under the impression that it should be airtight. Im gonna bore out the holetoday and see if that helps. Im familiar with mesh, been using it on vivis. Thanks
 

latexyankee

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Nov 18, 2010
294
135
Columbus, Ohio
So I skipped out of work early and went to my buddies house to bore this hole out. From 1mm to 1.5mm is a HUGE difference, alot more than I thought. The 1mm was a little too tight for my taste, and the 1.5 (1/16) is crazy airy. I didn't think it would be that much more of a difference. I was trying to replicate the draw from some vivi's. I don't not like it, but it is airy, maybe I have to get used to it. At least now I have some idea of what to expect when I order my next unit. Performance is up, it seems to produce more vapor but flavor is still muted. Gonna play with it more later.

I'm also noticing on this griffin that the rubber seal/grommet on the very bottom of the positive post where the threads are is trying to protrude out. It looks as if the bottom of the post is being sucked up and disappearing into the rubber. I can for see this becoming an issue.
 
Last edited:

CountSmackula

Genisis Junkie
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 16, 2012
8,946
23,516
BFE, KY
I'm also noticing on this griffin that the rubber seal/grommet on the very bottom of the positive post where the threads are is trying to protrude out. It looks as if the bottom of the post is being sucked up and disappearing into the rubber. I can for see this becoming an issue.

You need to loosen up the bottom nut on the center post & give the post a push down.
 

latexyankee

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Nov 18, 2010
294
135
Columbus, Ohio
Well it seems that making the airhole bigger has changed everything. The vapor went through the roof and flavor is getting better, I've ran about 5 tanks through this wick so I'm sure the flavor was there but something was holding it back. The draw on 1.6mm is a little too airy for my liking but with the step up in performance, it's worth it. I think 1.3-1.4 will be my sweet spot. This was my starter unit so at least I know what to look for. Can't wait til payday.
 

latexyankee

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Nov 18, 2010
294
135
Columbus, Ohio
I guess the final thing in my first rba quest is to get that really warm vape back. I'm on a 1.9-2.0 ohm coil right now, but I cant seem to push it past 3.8 maybe 3.9. I do miss the warmth from a 2.4 or 2.8 @ 4.5v and higher. Also it may be placebo, but I swear the vape from a carto or vivi with the same settings (2.0ohm, 3.8v) is significantly warmer. Maybe it's how these things vape or I'm just loosing it from playing around with this thing for 3 straight days.
 

latexyankee

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Nov 18, 2010
294
135
Columbus, Ohio
i once had a griffin and did the same thing, the draw was to tight so i bored it out a bit, but then it was to airy. i just couldnt get used to it, so i added a tiny peice of scotch tape to the hole to slightly cover the hole, i was able to dial in the perfect draw,

Yea I think the performance is up by leaps and bounds but I think the airy draw has also made the vape much cooler. Makes sense. I'll try to cover the hole with tape. I'm picky about appearance though, I don't think the tape will stay put on the inside of the cap due to condensation.
 

Rule62

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Oct 28, 2011
5,765
15,339
Melbourne, Florida
I guess the final thing in my first rba quest is to get that really warm vape back. I'm on a 1.9-2.0 ohm coil right now, but I cant seem to push it past 3.8 maybe 3.9. I do miss the warmth from a 2.4 or 2.8 @ 4.5v and higher. Also it may be placebo, but I swear the vape from a carto or vivi with the same settings (2.0ohm, 3.8v) is significantly warmer. Maybe it's how these things vape or I'm just loosing it from playing around with this thing for 3 straight days.

It may take a tank or so to break the wick in, but with a 2.0Ω coil, you should be able to vape at 4.5 V or so with no problem. Some of it depends on the thickness of the wick. The thicker the wick, the more it will act as a heat sink.
 

latexyankee

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Nov 18, 2010
294
135
Columbus, Ohio
It may take a tank or so to break the wick in, but with a 2.0Ω coil, you should be able to vape at 4.5 V or so with no problem. Some of it depends on the thickness of the wick. The thicker the wick, the more it will act as a heat sink.

It's 32g kanthal but it doesn't seem to want to go much higher without crazy hotspots or the entire coil burning red, I've got some 36 but just a little and it's crazy flimsy, scared to use it because I'm afraid I'll just muck it up. I should probably search for some 34.

Edit- you said wick, I was thinking you said wire. Yea the wick is pretty thin, griffin clone with the stock wick hole, not much wiggle room for a fat wick.
 
Last edited:

vapdivrr

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 8, 2012
9,966
19,933
61
sarasota,fl
Yea I think the performance is up by leaps and bounds but I think the airy draw has also made the vape much cooler. Makes sense. I'll try to cover the hole with tape. I'm picky about appearance though, I don't think the tape will stay put on the inside of the cap due to condensation.
i know it doesnt look that nice, but with the clear tape it isnt to noticable, also i had out the tape on the outside, not underneath.
 

Rule62

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Oct 28, 2011
5,765
15,339
Melbourne, Florida
It's 32g kanthal but it doesn't seem to want to go much higher without crazy hotspots or the entire coil burning red, I've got some 36 but just a little and it's crazy flimsy, scared to use it because I'm afraid I'll just muck it up. I should probably search for some 34.

32ga kanthal is all I use. My coils are also right around 2.0Ω. When you get your coil and wick installed, start at the lowest voltage you can, and still get the coils to begin to glow. Adjust the coils, as necessary, so that they're all glowing evenly. Then keep bumping the voltage up, .1 or .2 volts at a time, and keep checking the coils. When you can successfully hit the button, and the coils glow evenly, at or near your perferred vaping voltage, then, and only then, are you ready to fill the tank. Once the tank is full, tilt the device down, and flood the coil. Keeping the device tilted down, so that you are feeding the coil, hit the button, and hold it on for several seconds. It should smoke and pop like crazy. After doing this 3 or 4 times, you're ready to put the cap on and vape. You should have a wick and coil well on it's way to being seasoned.
 

vapdivrr

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 8, 2012
9,966
19,933
61
sarasota,fl
you dont want any wire thinner than 32g, imo thicker wire would perform better than even the 32g, if you dont get the results you are looking for try some 30g, i always had inconsistant results with the 32g, i find that a thicker wire is more stable, being thicker it seemed to stay consistantly wrapped around the wick, and didnt move as much as the thinner 32g. i personally use 28g but if you dont have the right mod, low resistance doesnt work to good. but definatly with the 32 and a 2 ohm coil you should be able to fire up to 4.5 to 5v, unless you are getting a short somewhere. i personally think a 30g wire set-up at resistances at 1.5 ohms at 4 volts would be a better set-up, thicker wire, better flavor. but thats just me
 

Rule62

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Oct 28, 2011
5,765
15,339
Melbourne, Florida
you dont want any wire thinner than 32g, imo thicker wire would perform better than even the 32g, if you dont get the results you are looking for try some 30g, i always had inconsistant results with the 32g, i find that a thicker wire is more stable, being thicker it seemed to stay consistantly wrapped around the wick, and didnt move as much as the thinner 32g. i personally use 28g but if you dont have the right mod, low resistance doesnt work to good. but definatly with the 32 and a 2 ohm coil you should be able to fire up to 4.5 to 5v, unless you are getting a short somewhere. i personally think a 30g wire set-up at resistances at 1.5 ohms at 4 volts would be a better set-up, thicker wire, better flavor. but thats just me

That probably would be a good set up. Unfortunately, I wouldn't be able to do it on 3 of my devices. I have 3 Version 1 Provaris, which have an amp limit of 2.5A. A 1.5 ohm coil at 4.5 volts would be over the limit, at about 2.66A. It's why I use 32ga, and build my coils around 2.0 ohms. I do have other devices with higher amp limits; but I like being able to use any of my RBAs on any of my devices.
 

latexyankee

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Nov 18, 2010
294
135
Columbus, Ohio
I may be getting a short or something is up. It seems that even when juice is in the tank my coil will light up when I push the voltage past 3.9 or even 3.8 sometimes. It will do this just after 2 seconds or so. Along those lines, if it put down to 3.7 I can get a nice draw but eventually the coil will get glowing red after maybe 6 seconds. Not a hotspot per say, the whole coil as if there was no juice. I was under the impression that perfect coil will not get red and just continue to produce vapor until the device cutoff sets in. What is this all about?

It also gets so hot that my wick will turn red from the heat, exactly the way a torch lights it. Oxidation issues?
 
Last edited:

latexyankee

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Nov 18, 2010
294
135
Columbus, Ohio
32ga kanthal is all I use. My coils are also right around 2.0Ω. When you get your coil and wick installed, start at the lowest voltage you can, and still get the coils to begin to glow. Adjust the coils, as necessary, so that they're all glowing evenly. Then keep bumping the voltage up, .1 or .2 volts at a time, and keep checking the coils. When you can successfully hit the button, and the coils glow evenly, at or near your perferred vaping voltage, then, and only then, are you ready to fill the tank. Once the tank is full, tilt the device down, and flood the coil. Keeping the device tilted down, so that you are feeding the coil, hit the button, and hold it on for several seconds. It should smoke and pop like crazy. After doing this 3 or 4 times, you're ready to put the cap on and vape. You should have a wick and coil well on it's way to being seasoned.

God I love you guys, noone has ever went that far into detail explaining bumping up the voltage unit I get to my sweet spot. After looking and thinking rationally, I thought my coil must be too tight since it's actually turning the wick red. Following your instructions and wrapping a little looser I got it glowing even at 4.4 at 2.1ohm. Should be good to go. Before i was just going to about 3.5v when testing, any higher and the wick would burn bright. Inexperience in me thought it would just break in or something.
 

Rule62

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Oct 28, 2011
5,765
15,339
Melbourne, Florida
God I love you guys, noone has ever went that far into detail explaining bumping up the voltage unit I get to my sweet spot. After looking and thinking rationally, I thought my coil must be too tight since it's actually turning the wick red. Following your instructions and wrapping a little looser I got it glowing even at 4.4 at 2.1ohm. Should be good to go. Before i was just going to about 3.5v when testing, any higher and the wick would burn bright. Inexperience in me thought it would just break in or something.

That's the thing about RBAs. The more meticulous you are in the beginning, the more you'll be rewarded in the end. I've done the same thing, early on. I've said "That's good enough" after a couple dry fires at low voltage. It usually isn't. Every time you hit the button and fire your coil, when first setting it up, you are adding to the oxidation layer on the wick. A coil should never glow red with juice on it, or when you are vaping.
 

Aras

Unregistered Supplier
ECF Veteran
Apr 26, 2010
709
54
46
USA Pennsylvania
thevaporchef.com
That's the thing about RBAs. The more meticulous you are in the beginning, the more you'll be rewarded in the end. I've done the same thing, early on. I've said "That's good enough" after a couple dry fires at low voltage. It usually isn't. Every time you hit the button and fire your coil, when first setting it up, you are adding to the oxidation layer on the wick. A coil should never glow red with juice on it, or when you are vaping.

This is wisdom right here. Take your time and perfect your coil. It will be worth it in the end. Don't get yourself down if you can't get it working. Starting with a new wick and re-wrapping is sometimes the absolute best thing you can do.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread