Share your Soldering Tips Here

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rickstar009

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Thanks for all the yummy soldering tips guys they come in handy as i have to repair my PSP shoulder button, it came off and it looks like a solder job is in order, i am a novice at this so wish me luck....i will probably do more harm than good to my PSP but i have to start some where if i am to become an experttielle at it.

By the way what is a heat sink clip? and where do i obtain one, please:)~Rick
 

rickstar009

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"By the way what is a heat sink clip? and where do i obtain one, please~Rick"
use an alligator clip attached to whatever you're soldering, it will draw away some of the heat and avoid damage to small parts, like the lil silicon ring around the positive connector of an atty.
ahhhh, ok i think i know what your on about strike ....alright then, well ta! for that, i know exactly! what to use now! so in order to protect the circuitry around the shoulder button from excessive heat;)~Ricky
 
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rickstar009

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I just fixed my PSP and who ever said soldering was hard and needs to be mastered obviously has the IQ of dirty Lol (JK)

It was rather easy an simplistic, i tinned the joints and warmed them up first then placed the broken parts back in my PSP and put a little solder on every metal joint, i then finshed it off with a little hot glue to secure and reinforce everything.

I will take some snap shots when i can so some of you professional solders can tell me if i did it properly.

looks like Rick has some hidden talents:D heh heh



(Sorry if i am abit off topic, just wanted to share my triumph)
 
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framitz

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One more tip:

My soldering station is a 35 year old Weller. It was kept on for at least 8 hours a day and sometimes over a weekend back in the mid 70's (I was a TV and consumer electronics technician back then). It currently has a tip that is over 30 years old and is still in perfect condition today.

Just before shutting down your soldering iron or station be sure to clean the tip (I use a damp sponge) THEN put a good coat of solder on it to seal out air. The next time you turn it on just wipe the tip clean, re-tin and you are good to go.
 

SLDS181

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This isn't about soldering in itself, but related nonetheless.

You have two hands. One will be using the soldering iron. The other has the solder.

Seriously, google "Helping Hands". Many know to get something like this to clip and hold your project, but alot of people don't. They are less than $10 in most cases, and will hold your soldering iron.

Also, if you've got a messy job in front of you, and you know you can do better.....

Warm it up, take the old solder off, and do it again. Its easier to redo it when everything is already apart. If its a bad solder job, you're just going to have to do it later anyway.
 

rbonie

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1. Tin your wires and connectors.

2. Use stranded wire, if you can - it holds up to movement/vibration better.

3. Make your mechanical connections first, THEN solder

4. Ideally, you should be able to see the shape of your wire within the solder, not a huge blob. Look at the 'lap splice' picture, here - see how the shape of the wire is visible through the solder join? That's what you want.

5. Use the highest heat and shortest time on the join that you can. You get a better flow of solder and less chance for a cold join due to movement.
New solderin iron.. practicin.. can't get iron to "tin" Seems I remember it "coating the tip". This just beads up. Bad iron? or clutz behind it?:confused:
 

override

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One more tip:

My soldering station is a 35 year old Weller. It was kept on for at least 8 hours a day and sometimes over a weekend back in the mid 70's (I was a TV and consumer electronics technician back then). It currently has a tip that is over 30 years old and is still in perfect condition today.

Just before shutting down your soldering iron or station be sure to clean the tip (I use a damp sponge) THEN put a good coat of solder on it to seal out air. The next time you turn it on just wipe the tip clean, re-tin and you are good to go.

Everything you said is great and useful information, although you should keep one thing in mind, your soldering station/pencil and tip are 30+ years old. At that time soldering tips were still being made with Lead Cores.

Tips of todays world are generally made with a copper core surrounded by iron. Hence the term "iron clad" tips. The damp sponge method works well with these tips when your doing alot of small, tedious work that requires no or very little solder on the tip, such as modding systems, where you need to add RGB to the Video chip or L/R audio to an A/V port etc, but is not recommended as a preferred cleaning method.

The tips don't respond well to constant and intense fluxuations to heat changes. Therefor constant tinning of the tip (using tip tinner/cleaner) is not recommended. Instead using brass wool, or a brass wire brush to clean the tip works very well, I generally use a tip tinner/cleaner every so often or on the intial breakin of a new tip. When you use your station right before your going to turn off your iron, brush it with the wire brush, then flood it with your solder. Let it cool, when you comeback to use it again, simply heat it up and clean it with the wire brush to knock off the solder you previously flooded it with, then apply a small amount of solder to each side of the tip and start your work. Repeat this process to keep the tip cleaned and ready for use! It helps to have a soldering station (I personally use an APE or XYtronic supertemp station) Using flux is a great practice, to simply explain it, Flux helps your solder go where you want it and not stick to your tip or other unwanted surfaces, it also allows your solder to flow much better with less heat! Although a prolonged (3 seconds or so) amount of heat with or without flux is and can be helpful to allow your solder to flow where you want it and to make good connections especially on thru hole products.

Keep in mind that generally the heat from your iron wont damage a PCB or Chips as long as your gentle, when PCB's are manufactured they always go through cleanign and heating process that is far greater than that of the temp used to melt your solder. Me personally I dishwash all the boards I work on and repair, then stick them in the over @ 117 degrees for 15 mintues, they will come out dry as a bone and ready to plug into any power source without the chance of an electric surge.

Another thing I have noticed several people say is to use sandpaper or an abrasive material to clean your tip or dipping your tip straight into flux....THIS IS SOMETHING YOU NEVER WANT TO DO...When you use something that abrasive your literally ruining your tip. Also flux IS corrosive. The iron clad material that surrounds the tip is very very thin, when you use sandpaper your removing that protective coating and allowing the copper center to be exposed, you WILL quickly burn up your tip.

Another tip for small and cheap based irons (such as radioshack etc) or well any iron for that matter, try not to bang it around, drop it, etc the ceramic core inside the iron is very sensitive and easily damaged. Try also to not leave your iron on for an extended amount of time without actually using it for something.


New solderin iron.. practicin.. can't get iron to "tin" Seems I remember it "coating the tip". This just beads up. Bad iron? or clutz behind it?:confused:

Refer to the above I just wrote out, you can also refer to google search engines for alot of useful information! I mod/repair older gaming systems on the side so I tend to solder quite often. Here is a great source of information on keeping your tips cleaned and well maintained, aswell good source of info on different grades and types of solder to use. Hope all this information helps!
 
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framitz

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May 24, 2009
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Everything you said is great and useful information, although you should keep one thing in mind, your soldering station/pencil and tip are 30+ years old. At that time soldering tips were still being made with Lead Cores.
You assume too much. The Weller tip is iron clad copper with ferromagnetic temperature control and has been used for thousands of soldering jobs. Soldering hasn't changed that much since it was new. Replacement parts are still readily available if needed.

Reference to the age of the equipment was just to illustrate the effectiveness of coating the tip prior to shut down.

Filing and sanding followed by tinning are recommended for solid copper tips, but of course will ruin a clad tip in short order.
 
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mnealtx

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Reference to the age of the equipment was just to illustrate the effectiveness of coating the tip prior to shut down.

I still do that, even with clad tips. I've also lightly roughed a clad tip to get it to tin better - the operative word there is LIGHTLY, of course.

Filing and sanding followed by tinning are recommended for solid copper tips, but of course will ruin a clad tip in short order.

Yeah, but with filing/tinning you can get it JUST right...something not always possible with the clad tips.

Hmm...I think framitz and I might be giving away our ages, here.... ;)
 

override

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You assume too much. The Weller tip is iron clad copper with ferromagnetic temperature control and has been used for thousands of soldering jobs. Soldering hasn't changed that much since it was new. Replacement parts are still readily available if needed.

Reference to the age of the equipment was just to illustrate the effectiveness of coating the tip prior to shut down.

Filing and sanding followed by tinning are recommended for solid copper tips, but of course will ruin a clad tip in short order.

First off I'd like to say that nothing I wrote or said was to put you down or demean you in anyway. I actually believe YOU are assuming to much....

I did not say that that the reason your tips last so long was because they were leaded tips, and surely didnt say that your methods were uneffective so why come back with a harsh comment? I was simply trying to state that "Tips of todays world are generally made with a copper core surrounded by iron." I was simply trying to give more helpful information on taking care of your more general (oh theres that word again) found iron clad tips.:)

With that said, I may be young but I do study up and try to do alot of research, everything in my post is factual and can be found on the internet or written in a book somewhere. I was merely stating the facts, and being that most people on here are probably going to be using an $8 iron from radioshack or maybe a walmart brand iron they are most likely going to have an iron clad tip. Which once again as I stated in my previous post a better or more typically used way of making those tips last a long time! Trust me when I say this, I burned up several tips from the first time I picked up a solder iron (cheapo from Radioshack) before I realized what I was doing wrong and why I was buying tips every other week. ;)
 

Dave Rickey

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Been a while since Tech School, our soldering training was so thorough before we were even allowed to touch real circuits, and the ....-retentive adherence to the standards at my PDS made them a complete reflex. But here's the important parts I can remember:

1) The smaller the contacts, the more important it is to have them completely clean. Flux *everything*, even if it's already tinned. The smoother the solder flows, the easier everything else is. You can (and should) always clean everything as the last step before mechanical reassembly, so throw that acid around freely.

2) When soldering IC's, even fairly simple ones with few contacts, clean thoroughly, flux carefully, completely, but with little excess (use a dry brush to remove globs), and if possible use solder paste (again, only a thin layer per pad). Toothpicks make good applicators, as long as they're clean.

3) Cold spray (aka "canned air" held upside down) is your friend. *Don't* spray liquid directly onto the point of contact, hold at least 12 inches back and wash the area with chilled air.

4) If it isn't smooth on the surface of the solder joint, it's not right. A little pitting/bubbling is okay if it's not a teeny little pad, but a clear seam means a cold joint, not a real bond.

5) If you need mechanical strength from a joint (for example, when making adapters), do that connection first, if possible, then cool the part before doing anything else.

6) Don't take the solder tip to a difficult location if you can help it, move the component or remove obstacles. If you're trying to see around your tip and avoid burning your fingers, you probably failed to properly plan your process.

7) Chunky crap on your tip is impurities with a melting temperature higher than that of your solder that have collected. Turn the heat all the way up, maybe add even more heat from a high-temp heat gun or propane torch, and get that stuff to melt. If you can't get it off before your tip core melts, the tip was terminally screwed, anyway.

--Dave
 

Brazilleon

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On the topic of soldering, what would be the best way to solder connections to new 510 connectors? The centre pops out, but it it is difficult to get the solder to stick. Likewise the outer edge is also difficult to get solder to stick to it? I wiped a little flux on it and I think it has grabbed. But worried about it strength when I wiggle the mod into the casing. The 901 connectors have nice little wires ready to connect.
Cheers
 

Brazilleon

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Ah, thanks!
I have been struggling with a cheap butane solder iron from home depot. Tomorrow I'll buy one from RS as it seems like my dealextreme goods are taking forever which includes the chargers I need to try these mods out.
Been a good practise run so far. 901 Nicostick sucess and now my 510 magnum.
Next time round the solder will be proper!!
 

Brazilleon

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So I bought a bunch of soldering tools and bits from sears today. They also have a sweet deal on a $24.99 multimeter for $14.99. The one I bought from RS last week is going back.

Just completed a nice and neat 510 nicostick with one of nerfs awesome connectors. It looks so neat!!

Question in regards to soldering iron. Is it normal for the tips to melt away during a solder session? Brand new pointy tip is almost gone?
Got some others but maybe I am doing something wrong?
 

Kewtsquirrel

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I haven't the irons sears carries, but your best bet is to return and it order a good adjustable soldering station - either a Hakko or a Weller. Should be able to find em online for $50-70, and the replacement tips for both are plentiful and quality. I got my hakko station at fry's for like $60, and it works amazingly well. Avoid an iron with an adjustable wheel on it, you want something with a standalone powersupply that your iron plugs into.
 
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