Shipping to US question.

[tinstar15]

Hi,

Just ordered a SS Don and was wondering about how long it would take to get here on average. Ordered an aluminum Don from electronicstix here in the US as well to hold me over until it arrives.

Thanks

 

[yadda]

Well I'm in Canada... They shipped out my Don on the 15th and I received it yesterday. So about 10 days to North America. Assume that your mileage will vary depending on customs.

 

[tinstar15]

Thanks, I was guessing that it would be about that. Just wanted to be sure.

 

[CUOFFRDGA]

I got mine in about 7 days.

The SS Don is frickin awesome, your going to love it. I think I may have to get an aluminum for work / running around.

 

[tinstar15]

The aluminum don came in yesterday. I am pleasantly surprised at how much simpler it is to set up and use than the videos would lead you to believe. The center post on the 510 connector was a tad long but that was easily remedied. Works beautifully with my tanks.

I'm debating whether or not to paint it a different color since the stainless one will be coming in eventually...

 

[Ariel_MX]

The aluminum don came in yesterday. I am pleasantly surprised at how much simpler it is to set up and use than the videos would lead you to believe. The center post on the 510 connector was a tad long but that was easily remedied. Works beautifully with my tanks.

I'm debating whether or not to paint it a different color since the stainless one will be coming in eventually...

Hi tin, how did you make the connector center post shorter? I have a ss Don, the center post on the 510 connector is a little long so sometimes it pushes up the center pin of my atty (G-tank).

 

[tinstar15]

I used a 3/32 pin punch to tap the center post out while the adapter was still installed in the head cap. I then used a bench grinder to gradually shorten the center post until it was close to size. I used a sharpening stone to get the final fit right. I then reinstalled the center post screw by using an old 510 threaded adapter with the center post removed that held the insulator in place while I tapped the screw into place. Instead of a 510 adapter you could use some tweezers.

It probably isn't simple now that I think about it. I just have a ton of tools for gunsmithing and plenty of spares of everything to experiment with.

Another solution, if you have a nice drill press and vice, would be to use that with a dremel grinding tip. Could be done freehand but my hand aren't THAT steady

 

[Ariel_MX]

I used a 3/32 pin punch to tap the center post out while the adapter was still installed in the head cap. I then used a bench grinder to gradually shorten the center post until it was close to size. I used a sharpening stone to get the final fit right. I then reinstalled the center post screw by using an old 510 threaded adapter with the center post removed that held the insulator in place while I tapped the screw into place. Instead of a 510 adapter you could use some tweezers.

It probably isn't simple now that I think about it. I just have a ton of tools for gunsmithing and plenty of spares of everything to experiment with.

Another solution, if you have a nice drill press and vice, would be to use that with a dremel grinding tip. Could be done freehand but my hand aren't THAT steady

Thanks tin, very well explained Before I experiment I will buy a spare 510 ss Don connector just in case. I have a lot of tools too, maybe I will try first with the Dremel and a drill press.

When you took out the connector center pin, did some of the plastic washers get damaged? Does those little plastic washers are the only thing that holds the center pin in place? (I see there is one on the bottom and another one inside de connector itself, but I was affraid to damage something trying to press down the pin).

Excuse my english

 

[tinstar15]

Actually the one on the inside of the connector is not a washer. The top part that you see is attached to a tube that goes all the way to the bottom. I broke the top portion off on my first attempt and it became a washer at that point. It was actually far easier to reinstall that way and doesn't seem to cause a short. The tube portion seems to do an excellent job centering the post by itself. The top portion would still be needed since its the only thing keeping the center post in though.

 

[tinstar15]

Got it in yesterday....love stainless steel. 10 days including weekends. Not bad

 

[Ariel_MX]

Got it in yesterday....love stainless steel. 10 days including weekends. Not bad

10 days from UK, not bad at all. I wish all my packages came to Mexico in 10 days.

It is really nice, isn't it? It would be great to have another section to allow the use of 18500 batteries in it.

 

[jeffcmfrt]

I have been known to make a few Mods as I own a lathe / mill small home machine shop. When I make a Mod my atomizer conector/threads the threaded part is made out of a hard steel called Cold Roll.I then I press that into aluminum endcaps I then also use solid peice of brass as the positive center post and a thick nylon bushing used as a insulator. They are all pressed in and create a tight seal so e-liquid can not get into batteries they are dripper freindly and the center post can be aligned with your other mods.( I am sure everyone wanted to swap a atomizer from one mod to another and you put it on and it will not fire because the center post is too high and pushes the center of the atomizer in) Mods that use that tiny rubber can not take it too many times they will short and also over time e-juice can break em down dry them out especially the thin rubber ones. I will be honest not trying to bragg or anything but I have yet to see quality threads & post as sturdy and as good as the ones I make. if you have a Micromitor or calipar measure the center post and the ID of the threaded tube it is prolly the same size I can send ya a few nylon insulators I use they are awsome.

Cheers
Jeff