Remove #4 from #5, #4 has the male end of the 510 connection, #5 houses the female end of the 510 connection.
Any contamination in these areas will cause problems like you describe.
Below, This is the 510 connection point, the brass looking round pin in the battery/power device can get depressed and cause issues like you're having.
The silver looking pin in the delivery device/tank can also get stuck inward from gunk/residue build up causing connectivity problems also.
Both sides of the 510 connection including the threads (battery/power device to tank/ delivery device) have to be clean, shiny, free from any liquid, goo, gunk, build up and or debris.
You also have to make sure you’re using the correct CL heads, only the 1Ω and .5Ω will function correctly with your power device. ( black O rings on heads )
The CL-Ti and CL-Ni (red and blue O rings) should not be used with your power device.
Make sure you’re using authentic joytech replacement heads, the knockoff, clone, copycat, fake heads are notorious problem causers.
Any contamination in these areas will cause problems like you describe.

Below, This is the 510 connection point, the brass looking round pin in the battery/power device can get depressed and cause issues like you're having.
The silver looking pin in the delivery device/tank can also get stuck inward from gunk/residue build up causing connectivity problems also.
Both sides of the 510 connection including the threads (battery/power device to tank/ delivery device) have to be clean, shiny, free from any liquid, goo, gunk, build up and or debris.

You also have to make sure you’re using the correct CL heads, only the 1Ω and .5Ω will function correctly with your power device. ( black O rings on heads )
The CL-Ti and CL-Ni (red and blue O rings) should not be used with your power device.
Make sure you’re using authentic joytech replacement heads, the knockoff, clone, copycat, fake heads are notorious problem causers.
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