I know their specs are wrong, generally they list pulse ratings as continuous. But you can't "determine" the actual continuous rating of a battery in a home lab (such as damfukkus or whatever his name is). You can test how well they perform at various loads, I.e. what their voltage sag is, what their real capacity is, etc. But as far as the continuous rating the best you can do is try to match it up to the other specs of a similar battery, which is how the 6amp limit was determined. But I can tell you beyond a shadow of a doubt that's not accurate. As said, I have personally tested these with a 10A and 15A continuous load through the entire discharge curve with no ill effects on the battery. I.e. no absurd heat generation and no effect on the battery itself. If they were truly only 6amp they would not have stood up to this testing. At the very least they would have overheated and vented.
Short life of battery
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His home lab, your home lab, whatever. The point is efest lies. And Baditude's info might not be 100% accurate, but I trust him more than a company that is known to make false claims. There are too many other options, so efest will not have me as a customer. Just my opinion.
For one 12hrs is pretty good.
Those batteries are really not typically recommended anymore. They are protected battery's and are not really that safe. (The dead giveaway is they are longer from the protection unit.) There is a possibility they can explode if you have a problem down the road. If you feel any heat from the mods battery compartment stop using it immediately. If your using them under an easy load from the atty, 1.8ohms plus, you can get by without much problem if you keep in mind any heat you feel from the battery compartment... but there are safer options. A imr battery is safe chemistry and will not blow if something goes wrong.
The main thing that is going to effect your run time is the ohm level your vaping at. Lower ohms runs it down faster higher ohms will last longer.
Those batteries are really not typically recommended anymore. They are protected battery's and are not really that safe. (The dead giveaway is they are longer from the protection unit.) There is a possibility they can explode if you have a problem down the road. If you feel any heat from the mods battery compartment stop using it immediately. If your using them under an easy load from the atty, 1.8ohms plus, you can get by without much problem if you keep in mind any heat you feel from the battery compartment... but there are safer options. A imr battery is safe chemistry and will not blow if something goes wrong.
The main thing that is going to effect your run time is the ohm level your vaping at. Lower ohms runs it down faster higher ohms will last longer.
They are ok for your current set-up for a while.. but inherently they are not what you would call safe anymore. Sure we all used them in the past and didn't have much trouble... But there is an off chance of a failure... Safe chemistry batteries are safer options that are available now. Imr and hybrids
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Good call. I didn't even know they made another 3100. I assumed she was talking about the purple one. If it's the black and silver one you have, then it would be much better to get an imr cell. If it's the purple one then you are fine.
That black efest battery is pcb protected at 2.8 amps, it will trip if anything hits it lower than 1.5 on a mech
Test of Efest 18650 3100mAh (Black)
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Yeah. I didn't even realize they made one. I thought she was talking about the purple 3100 efest.
I find myself buying more Efests than AW these days. I'm a big AW fan (I have 6), but the reality of usage reveals that the Efest purple 2500mah 18650 has been a reliable, long lasting battery under my 2.5A vaping style.
It all depends on what you are doing with a battery. Those who feel the need to vape at fractional ohm levels with high wattage certainly should do their homework when choosing a battery. They need to search out the best and most reliable batteries available.
Dani, OTOH, says she is getting 12 hours out of an Efest. For her and many others who vape at normal wattage it's not an issue. I can vape all day on a $9.95 Efest or I can vape all day on a $14.95 AW. I've reached the point where I prefer the Efest at 3 for $30 over the AW at 2 for $30 prices. Performance and longevity seem to be about the same and it's like buying two and getting one free.
That said, I'm still not much of a Trustfire or Ultrafire fan, but the game changed when lMR overtook Lithium ion. Battery chemistries are generally much safer. The old exploding battery scare began to die out when people changed over to safer chemistry. Don't abuse them, know what you are doing in a high current application and they will likely work just fine, IMO.
It all depends on what you are doing with a battery. Those who feel the need to vape at fractional ohm levels with high wattage certainly should do their homework when choosing a battery. They need to search out the best and most reliable batteries available.
Dani, OTOH, says she is getting 12 hours out of an Efest. For her and many others who vape at normal wattage it's not an issue. I can vape all day on a $9.95 Efest or I can vape all day on a $14.95 AW. I've reached the point where I prefer the Efest at 3 for $30 over the AW at 2 for $30 prices. Performance and longevity seem to be about the same and it's like buying two and getting one free.
That said, I'm still not much of a Trustfire or Ultrafire fan, but the game changed when lMR overtook Lithium ion. Battery chemistries are generally much safer. The old exploding battery scare began to die out when people changed over to safer chemistry. Don't abuse them, know what you are doing in a high current application and they will likely work just fine, IMO.
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Agreed. I don't like the fact that they use pulse ratings. I do think that could cause issues at the very least deteriorated battery lifetime for those that don't know any better, and could even result in a vented battery. On the other hand, there are only a few true battery manufactures. Efest is no doubt rewrapping many of the same cells as aw. And charging less for it. The same applies for just about any battery out there, buy from a reliable vendor, know it's limits and always give yourself margin for safety.
Aside from the technical speak we threw at ya... I see that alt cig recommends a protected battery.. While this is old school and the battery itself is not the safest. The reason they do that is so it won't fire above 2.8 amps because the switch is rated at 3 amps and will burn out if you use ohms lower than 1.5 ohms.
*On another note you said your really trying to get a hit by the end..
Well I would just change them after 6-8 hours to keep the power level higher. You usually don't want to run it till it dies. As they drain, the power hitting the atty is dropping as well. It starts at 4.2 volts (11w) and drops down to like 2.75volts (5w) before it's cut off. That is a big swing in power and very very noticeable. By the end you have less than half the power and vape you started with.
You would probably like the wattage to stay above 8 for happy vaping. So that mean change the battery at 3.5v or after 6 hours of your regular vaping. Calculated from what you said.
*On another note you said your really trying to get a hit by the end..
Well I would just change them after 6-8 hours to keep the power level higher. You usually don't want to run it till it dies. As they drain, the power hitting the atty is dropping as well. It starts at 4.2 volts (11w) and drops down to like 2.75volts (5w) before it's cut off. That is a big swing in power and very very noticeable. By the end you have less than half the power and vape you started with.
You would probably like the wattage to stay above 8 for happy vaping. So that mean change the battery at 3.5v or after 6 hours of your regular vaping. Calculated from what you said.
It all reminds me of the 70's when manufacturers advertised audio amps at 1000 and 2000 watts (peak ratings with 10% harmonic distortion) when the true RMS ratings were much lower, cleaner, and more accurate and in the 100 to 200 watt range.
I have to wonder if one day we might see the need to discuss whether the battery we just bought is a "real" Efest or a "real" EH, or a knockoff. Most every battery is a re-wrapped battery made in someone else's plant. Knowing what you have inside the wrapper is a real pain without unwrapping and rewrapping it.
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I was thinking the same exact thing. Jensen came to mind. I remember when I was a kid and they actually made decent equipment. Then they started making cheap crap with ridiculous peak ratings.
You need to think about how a battery discharges. The discharge curve for the battery you have been using (lithium cobalt) is a fairly strait line from 4.2v down to3.3v. With a good IMR battery (lithium manganese) the batter drops from 4.2v down to 3.7v, and then hangs there for most of the charge, and then drops quickly to 3.3v at the end of the charge. This makes it so that you don't notice the "drop off" until it's time to change out the battery.
Most of the time these 'high drain" batteries have a lower mAh than do the cheaper batteries like the ones you have been using, but 'so what', if they provide a better vape, it's worth it. I'd much rather have a great vape that high drain IMR batteries provide.
BTW the Silver Bullet is a great PV. Mine is almost 4 years old, and still works like a champ.
Most of the time these 'high drain" batteries have a lower mAh than do the cheaper batteries like the ones you have been using, but 'so what', if they provide a better vape, it's worth it. I'd much rather have a great vape that high drain IMR batteries provide.
BTW the Silver Bullet is a great PV. Mine is almost 4 years old, and still works like a champ.
I remember Jensen speakers. They were the standard in guitar amps (and still are). Then, JB Lansing speakers with the metal voice coil cover that enhanced the high freq range became the upgrade for Jensens. Then, the market growth enticed other brands to develop new products.
The battery market is driven by radio control and flashlight hobbyists these days. Ecigs are catching up just by sheer numbers. We are using batteries that were first used by high intensity flashlight hobbyists and police officers. I was looking at LED flashlights the other day in Walmart and saw one that was rated over 1000 lumens. That's equal to a 60 watt tungsten/florescent in point source mode enhanced by a reflector. It made a brilliant bluish white round spot on the floor in test mode at the store. When you use that kind of equipment you want batteries that last. The battery industry responded and was boosted further by ecig users.
If you want to look at flashlight enthusiast conversations, try www.candlepowerforums.com. The talk batteries, run tests with graphs, and have flashlight shootouts where they photograph their lights shined on test patterns in the dark, monitored by test equipment that measure brightness and spot size at a given distance.
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Lol, I'm actually a bit of a flashlight enthusiast too. It's actually part of how I discovered vaping. I have several lights that are 900-1200 lumen. Many of them single LED. It's amazing how much those things can put out!
I have a 170 lumen Craftsman that uses AAA cells. I want an 18650 LED light.
I've been threatening to buy a particular tactical light at Amazon that gets good reviews and can use 3-AAA or a single 18650. It's rated 4.6 out of 5 with 237 reviews. What do you think for home and car use? If I go outside at night I want brilliant light. This one has 5 illumination settings with the highest at 500 lumens and a focus ring that widens and tightens the spot beam. For $30 it looks really good.
Simon Cree Led Flashlight Top LED Tactical Flashlight used by Law Enforcement. The Brightest LED Flashlight Torch with 500 Lumens. Simon High Power Bright Flashlight T6 Pro Part #ST6FL13661013 - Basic Handheld Flashlights - Amazon.com
It sounds ridiculous, but out of all the lights I have, my favorite is the cheapest. After getting my first I bOught a bunch just because they were so cheap. I keep them every where. They are ultrafire 501b and 502b. (502b has a belt clip that's about the only difference.) They use cree xm-l t6 leds. Single led outputs a good 900 lumen. And they only cost about $15 each and take a single 18650. I don't really like focused beams just because to me it's more of a pain to use. I'd rather just click it on and go. I have lights I've paid over $160 for and don't like them nearly as much as the ultrafires. At night shining it straight up makes a beam in the sky that can be seen for miles.
I like the fact that the flashlight I linked uses 18650 batteries or standard AAA cells. I'm using NiMh AAA rechargeables in my Craftsman, so all I have to do is pop them in the charger, but my preference would be 18650s in any new lights I buy.
Even at Walmart there's a considerable markup for high dollar items. Amazon seems to cut through the layers of markup and get the product to the customer with less handling involved. I look for Prime items and get free shipping and that helps a lot.
I really like Amazon's exchange policy. If you buy it and don't like it, you leave a return email and they send you a Fed Ex return label to print and put on the package. Put it back in the box and send it back, then order the one you really wanted. It's a no hassle transaction. If it's a defective item, you get an email from the vendor offering replacement or return with credit. Sometimes, they just send you a new one and don't want the defective one back.
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