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Sounds like wayyyyyyyy to much trouble.
It also seems like getting consistent results will be tough.I always find PG to VG ratios don't tell us much, as it doesn't take into account flavorings for one, and I doubt that every VG out there has the same viscosity. Alcohol, PG and water are common carriers, how much flavoring has been added? 2, 5, 10, 15, 20%? If the stuff is too thick as little as 3 drops of water per tankful will change the viscosity.
I've basically gone to single coil, 2Ω Boge and smok cartos. They both seem much more tolerant of hole/slot size. I have also decided that the shorter ones perform better over the long haul when tanked than their XL brothers. I've also found that a couple top offs through my drip tip help for the first tank, they loosen up after that.
As far as punching the finickiness of the piercing valve got old. I quickly built this after seeing a few similar designs out there.
Dougiestyle had a neat, no frills, press together approach.
Another.
Mine was precision engineered from exotic wood I found in the garage and modeled after Fono's Phideas.
The main hole (carto diameter) was drilled to the correct depth to put the punch in the right pace, the 'stop' is just 2 carto end plugs. No need to count turns, when the stop makes contact it's done.
No need to clean up anything, no need for anything except a screwdriver, and the hole is consistent, every time. It really is a 10 second job.
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Frigging awesome WB!
Yeah, it is a little work, but the distorted carto from piercing bothers me more than a few more moments of work. But that is just me. Plus, I don't have the supply of rare exotic hardwoods like you
Yeah, it is a little work, but the distorted carto from piercing bothers me more than a few more moments of work. But that is just me. Plus, I don't have the supply of rare exotic hardwoods like you
The very nature of the design with a properly sized hole to surround the carto firmly, results in almost zero distortion.Frigging awesome WB!
Yeah, it is a little work, but the distorted carto from piercing bothers me more than a few more moments of work. But that is just me. Plus, I don't have the supply of rare exotic hardwoods like you
Cheap, works well, I'm still using the first screw, from Feb, after quite a few cartos: Cartomizer Punch
Tighten the screw until it contacts the carto body, then two full turns.
Practice on a junker carto, you'll quickly get the hang of it. I use Ikenvape 801 fusion cartos in a notcigs M1A1 tank -- sliding the carto all the way to the flange is perfect for this. For other tanks, thicker end caps, you'll typically want about 1/8" of carto exposed, to get the hole high enough to clear the end cap.
Tighten the screw until it contacts the carto body, then two full turns.
Practice on a junker carto, you'll quickly get the hang of it. I use Ikenvape 801 fusion cartos in a notcigs M1A1 tank -- sliding the carto all the way to the flange is perfect for this. For other tanks, thicker end caps, you'll typically want about 1/8" of carto exposed, to get the hole high enough to clear the end cap.
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Another.
Mine was precision engineered from exotic wood I found in the garage and modeled after Fono's Phideas.
I love that exotic wood you used. It's exquisite!
I've made one out of polymer clay. It's kind of pretty. I took a bunch of left over scraps from my kids projects and swirled them all together. Mine only works with a nail and hammer, but I'm thinking about making another with an embedded nut that I can thread a screw into. The polymer clay itself is not hard enough to stand up to a screw.
i personally would not slot carto's. i feel like using a dremel sends grime and metal crap into the carto wich i feel is not safe at all. but then again it could be just me
I slotted a half year, before switching to the hub/screw. I was happy with the slotting, but honestly the hub punch I posted the link for is faster, way simpler/more consistent than fritzing with saddle valves, low cost, just plain works well. I came up with the build for it, wanted cheap and easy; the vendor is using the parts I listed over in a PIF thread, selling them at cost. (the hub is easy to get, but the 1/4-20 screws are a PITA due to S&H, so someone selling the parts combined is a win)
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