Should I upgrade my battery?

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tfraley

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Depends on your build. I use vtc as they are available local and I build low. From what I hear the LG lasts much longer but I can not attest to that personally. The samsung 20r is supposedly the hardest hitting battery available though and can handle very low ohm builds.

My current build is at .23 which is around where I like it but would like to be able to experiment lower with out worry if need be.

Currently have an MNKE in it trying not to push it and not charing battery to max a the moment. Which is why I wanted to stop and pick something up at the moment
The samsung is like a 20a isn't it?
 

DaPopeLP

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My current build is at .23 which is around where I like it but would like to be able to experiment lower with out worry if need be.

Currently have an MNKE in it trying not to push it and not charing battery to max a the moment. Which is why I wanted to stop and pick something up at the moment
The samsung is like a 20a isn't it?
22amp continuous. Can burst drastically higher. Forget that number but I know people who run them below .1 and none have gone boom so a .23 build will be just fine. A .23 ohm build will only draw 18.2 amps
 

beckdg

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Well, my position is I pay no attention to pulse ratings. At best they are arbitrary and give a false sense of security. I only pay attention to the continuous discharge rating, and try to insure that the manufacturer is advertising the continuous and not the pulse rating (purple Efest).

1.0 ohm = 4.2 amp draw
0.9 ohm = 4.6 amp draw
0.8 ohm = 5.2 amp draw
0.7 ohms = 6 amp draw
0.6 ohms = 7 amp draw
0.5 ohms = 8.4 amp draw
0.4 ohms = 10.5 amp draw
0.3 ohms = 14.0 amp draw
0.2 ohms = 21.0 amp draw
0.1 ohms = 42.0 amp draw
0.0 ohms = dead short = battery goes into thermal runaway

I believe using the pulse rating instantly makes your build over spec, and leaves you with no safe headroom for a battery failure. Even when using the continuous rating, I believe some safe headroom is necessary.

I wouldn't use a 20 amp continuous battery with a coil lower than 0.4 ohm.
I wouldn't use a 30 amp continuous battery with a coil lower than 0.3 ohm.

Something like a loose post screw can unknowingly change the resistance to drop 0.2 ohms or more. Just 0.2 ohms is too easy for a coil to change resistance and become a potential battery failure.

That's all well and good but it's still just standard rhetoric. I don't just trust a label, manufacturer or retailer. Tests have shown that the vtc5 can't put out a continuous 2/3 of its rated amps without over heating.

30 amps continuous have proven impossible so the vtc5 rating is bogus. Period.

As you say I pay no attention to pulse ratings either. I pay attention to cell performance and only cell performance.

I believe to have headroom one must understand the characteristics of the cell they're working with and do anything but rely on any written or published specs. I've been tinkering with electronics for 25 years. This isn't my first rodeo. [emoji6]
 
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beckdg

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22amp continuous. Can burst drastically higher. Forget that number but I know people who run them below .1 and none have gone boom so a .23 build will be just fine. A .23 ohm build will only draw 18.2 amps
Exactly. I think I might not be buying anymore sonys. They're over rated and flipping like hot cakes because of it.
 

tfraley

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Ok guys at my local Vaper store convinced me into getting a set of LG's they claim their just as good as the vtc4's but last a lot longer

Photo Sep 06, 3 17 38 PM.jpg
----- My pics always post upside down not sure why, they look fine on my computer and iPhone
They even display the right way in my dropbox..
https://www.dropbox.com/s/l8zhshxcgl5bhtz/Photo%20Sep%2006%2C%203%2017%2038%20PM.jpg?dl=0
 
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beckdg

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Ok guys at my local Vaper store convinced me into getting a set of LG's they claim their just as good as the vtc4's but last a lot longer

View attachment 371736
----- My pics always post upside down not sure why, they look fine on my computer and iPhone
They even display the right way in my dropbox..
https://www.dropbox.com/s/l8zhshxcgl5bhtz/Photo%20Sep%2006%2C%203%2017%2038%20PM.jpg?dl=0
Tests have shown they perform better than the vtc4's. only thing they're missing is an inflated label. Have to get them re labeled from efest for that. Though better to get originals IMO. less likely to have sat around longer awaiting a new skin and likely to save a couple bucks per cell.
 

tfraley

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Tests have shown they perform better than the vtc4's. only thing they're missing is an inflated label. Have to get them re labeled from efest for that. Though better to get originals IMO. less likely to have sat around longer awaiting a new skin and likely to save a couple bucks per cell.

Thank you @beckdg this makes me feel a lot better about my purchase today.
 

anumber1

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I agree with Beckdg in regards to the fact that the battery manufacturers are not exactly truthful or transparent regarding the specifications of the batteries that look attractive to vapers currently on the market.

There are several factors in play here.

One of the most basic and frequently made misconceptions is that mAh ratings are a standard spec and hold true across the industry.

They are not.

Panasonic rates their batteries with total mAh stats but achieves these specs by discharging cells to 2.5v. This is a full volt lower than any battery used in a mech can be practically used at and most regulated devices will will cease to function at 3.4 to 3.2v.

Using the discharge curves from a reputable, independent testing database Akkudb (AkkuDB), Panasonic batteries derive their high mAh specs by putting out respectable power well below what a person using a personal vaporizer will use. Most Panasonic's hang on for a long time at low voltages but so not do so well providing high discharge time at voltages from 4.2 to 3.2v. This voltage range is where a typical vaper is going to need strong battery perfomance and not where a Panasonic excels.

The Panasonic NCR18650PF will only provide roughly 11250 mAh to 3.4v discharged @ 5A) as evidenced in this chart: AkkuDB

The NCR18650BE and the NCR18650B perform even worse regarding mAh in the range we use them in.

Efest is greatly overstating the ratings of the NCR18650BE that they areselling and marketing as a 20A, 3100 mAh battery.

In regards to the Sony VTC5 batteries, they do provide strong performance in the range of voltage that we as vapers run them at, as do the LG 18650HE2 and the Samsung INR18650-25R.

The troubling aspect of the 30a rated sony is that when it is used continuously at a high discharge rate, it will exceed it's maximum temperature spec doing so. This falls well short of the sony really being a 30a max battery and staying within it's specifications without external cooling. (AkkuDB).

The sony will provide close to 1400 mAh down to 3.4v at 5a (AkkuDB)

The LG ICR18650HE2 wil provide 1363mAh down to 3.4v @ 5A Pretty close to the Sony.(AkkuDB)

The Samsung InR18650-25R will provide 1427 mAh to 3.4v @5A (AkkuDB)

With these tests available, the 20A Samsung and LG batteries will perform well. As well as a Sony in fact.

Also with these tests, The VTC5 shows that it will overheat before the "lesser" 20A (when discharged at 20A) batteries when it used at 2/3 of it's stated ratings yet provide about the same longevity.

Since my lowest builds are above 0.3 Ohms (.55 to .44 ohms), I feel that the LG and the Samsung are perfectly good batteries in my applications and in fact in use by me, seem to perform better than the higher mAh and Max continuous amp rated Sony.

As a bonus, the LG and the Samsung are available for much less money ($8) and are not hard to source nor often counterfeited.

I have a half a dozen VTC5s and 4 VTC4's on hand if I feel the need to sub ohm lower than I usually do and am glad I have them, but, I bought them before the shortage/panic set in, so at least I have some.

I don't feel comfortable calling them 30A batteries however as the testing shows that they will struggle to meet published specifications.

It seems battery specs are fudged quite a bit and am glad independent test results exist to aid me in purchasing the batteries I am interested in.

I do feel like I beat my head against a wall most days when people insist that using batteries beyond the stated max amp limits is ok and acceptable when the current "king" of high discharge batteries fails to live up to its specifications.
 

DaPopeLP

Senior Member
Sep 3, 2014
94
36
United States
I agree with Beckdg in regards to the fact that the battery manufacturers are not exactly truthful or transparent regarding the specifications of the batteries that look attractive to vapers currently on the market.

There are several factors in play here.

One of the most basic and frequently made misconceptions is that mAh ratings are a standard spec and hold true across the industry.

They are not.

Panasonic rates their batteries with total mAh stats but achieves these specs by discharging cells to 2.5v. This is a full volt lower than any battery used in a mech can be practically used at and most regulated devices will will cease to function at 3.4 to 3.2v.

Using the discharge curves from a reputable, independent testing database Akkudb (AkkuDB), Panasonic batteries derive their high mAh specs by putting out respectable power well below what a person using a personal vaporizer will use. Most Panasonic's hang on for a long time at low voltages but so not do so well providing high discharge time at voltages from 4.2 to 3.2v. This voltage range is where a typical vaper is going to need strong battery perfomance and not where a Panasonic excels.

The Panasonic NCR18650PF will only provide roughly 11250 mAh to 3.4v discharged @ 5A) as evidenced in this chart: AkkuDB

The NCR18650BE and the NCR18650B perform even worse regarding mAh in the range we use them in.

Efest is greatly overstating the ratings of the NCR18650BE that they areselling and marketing as a 20A, 3100 mAh battery.

In regards to the Sony VTC5 batteries, they do provide strong performance in the range of voltage that we as vapers run them at, as do the LG 18650HE2 and the Samsung INR18650-25R.

The troubling aspect of the 30a rated sony is that when it is used continuously at a high discharge rate, it will exceed it's maximum temperature spec doing so. This falls well short of the sony really being a 30a max battery and staying within it's specifications without external cooling. (AkkuDB).

The sony will provide close to 1400 mAh down to 3.4v at 5a (AkkuDB)

The LG ICR18650HE2 wil provide 1363mAh down to 3.4v @ 5A Pretty close to the Sony.(AkkuDB)

The Samsung InR18650-25R will provide 1427 mAh to 3.4v @5A (AkkuDB)

With these tests available, the 20A Samsung and LG batteries will perform well. As well as a Sony in fact.

Also with these tests, The VTC5 shows that it will overheat before the "lesser" 20A (when discharged at 20A) batteries when it used at 2/3 of it's stated ratings yet provide about the same longevity.

Since my lowest builds are above 0.3 Ohms (.55 to .44 ohms), I feel that the LG and the Samsung are perfectly good batteries in my applications and in fact in use by me, seem to perform better than the higher mAh and Max continuous amp rated Sony.

As a bonus, the LG and the Samsung are available for much less money ($8) and are not hard to source nor often counterfeited.

I have a half a dozen VTC5s and 4 VTC4's on hand if I feel the need to sub ohm lower than I usually do and am glad I have them, but, I bought them before the shortage/panic set in, so at least I have some.

I don't feel comfortable calling them 30A batteries however as the testing shows that they will struggle to meet published specifications.

It seems battery specs are fudged quite a bit and am glad independent test results exist to aid me in purchasing the batteries I am interested in.

I do feel like I beat my head against a wall most days when people insist that using batteries beyond the stated max amp limits is ok and acceptable when the current "king" of high discharge batteries fails to live up to its specifications.

I can not like this post enough. Appreciate the links. Though I disagree with your last line but thats an entire other story.

*takes a vape on 60 amp build*
 

DaPopeLP

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Sep 3, 2014
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United States
overheat if they are used at 20a continuous. Who holds the fire button continuously?
I frequently draw 26-27a from my vtc5s and they barely get luke warm.
Nobody. You pulse it ;). Mine rarely get luke warm unless Im chain vaping, but usually my stupid drip tip is scalding before that. Seriously need to get a better one or just go back to no drip tip.
 

beckdg

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*takes a vape on 60 amp build*

60 amps would be close to 240 watts. 60 watts would be about 15 amps.
overheat if they are used at 20a continuous. Who holds the fire button continuously?
I frequently draw 26-27a from my vtc5s and they barely get luke warm.
If you're getting warmth from your battery on a vape you're over stressing it. Period. Mine don't gain temp when I dry burn. That doesn't stop the performance degradation.
 

anumber1

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60 amps would be close to 240 watts. 60 watts would be about 15 amps.

If you're getting warmth from your battery on a vape you're over stressing it. Period. Mine don't gain temp when I dry burn. That doesn't stop the performance degradation.

A 60A draw means a build of around .07 ohms.

That is quite a build. Too hot for my tastes but im not the guy that is going to disparage a person for doing so.

I have also noticed that my oldest pair of VTC5's (6 Months) no longer perform as they did when new.This is leading me to think that they VTC5's are also not going to survive for a high number of charge cycles. This wouldn't be a big deal either if they were still cheap and available. Sadly, they are not easy to get nor inexpensive anymore.
 

DaPopeLP

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A 60A draw means a build of around .07 ohms.

That is quite a build. Too hot for my tastes but im not the guy that is going to disparage a person for doing so.
.

Correct! Its not that warm with good airflow and a drink. Let your mouth go dry and it becomes interesting. Make sure you have plenty of air flow and it becomes very satisfying!

My vtc4s still seem to be holding up at around 5-6 months but I know they have to be nearing the end of their life cycle. Time to pick up some samsung 20r. They have held up well, even down to 140 amps.
 

anumber1

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Correct! Its not that warm with good airflow and a drink. Let your mouth go dry and it becomes interesting. Make sure you have plenty of air flow and it becomes very satisfying!

My vtc4s still seem to be holding up at around 5-6 months but I know they have to be nearing the end of their life cycle. Time to pick up some samsung 20r. They have held up well, even down to 140 amps.
So, you will run a .03 build? On a 20a samsung? That is confidence in your meter.

Good luck!
 

Baditude

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So, you will run a .03 build? On a 20a samsung? That is confidence in your meter.
Good luck!
Just a cautionary comment to any or all members who may be viewing this thread. Whether you chose to use the continuous discharge rating or pulse discharge rating of a battery for your coil builds, that is up to you to decide on your best judgement and reasoning.

HOWEVER, I can not in good conscience approve of anyone running a 0.03 build with any battery, let alone on a 20 amp continuous discharge rated battery. The meters which we use to test resistance are not that accurate or precise to measure at such low resistances. This coil build is way over spec and leaves absolutely no margin of safety. This is not adviseable.

:danger:
 
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anumber1

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That was on a vtc4 and have never had a vent or a battery go bad. I need to get some samsung 20R but I rarely vape that low any more. Mostly around .07-.09.

Any of the low resistance builds you are taking about using are far, far over the capacity of any battery currently manufactured.

You are getting lucky with every drag.

The statement in which you say that you haven't vented a battery should be followed with the simple word "yet".

To each his own but for me to recommend that any battery made would be just fine how you are using it would be irresponsible on my part.

Baditude has stated my exact opinion on the matter.
 
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