Did this just because. Has an 800mah ego bat in it I had laying around from my starter kit fitted with internal charge board and just enough room for a spare kanger coil.
show off your mech! homebuilt mods only!
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Did this just because. Has an 800mah ego bat in it I had laying around from my starter kit fitted with internal charge board and just enough room for a spare kanger coil.
I saw a acrylic mod someone built a few weeks ago and loved it, so I had to give it a shot! I've learned acrylic is interesting to work with... especially gluing it (welding). I built a Vamo acrylic mod. This is my second version, first was a lot bigger, I really am enjoying the size... 3 1/4 in high, 1 1/2 wide and 1 1/8 deep. I have a charger board on the bottom.
I really like that. It takes alot of thought and planning to make a mod from scratch. great job
Very nice build David !!! Looking perfect , anyway you can share a link for the voltage display and switches, much appreciated
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Just finished my latest LiPo Lexan Mod..........
I built all,,,but the ones on the ends.....
1 Amp Charge Board.
I'm a heavy vaper, and this battery last me 2.5 days! A dual 18650 LG mod last me 1.5 days.
I built all,,,but the ones on the ends.....
1 Amp Charge Board.
I'm a heavy vaper, and this battery last me 2.5 days! A dual 18650 LG mod last me 1.5 days.
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Just finished my latest LiPo Lexan Mod..........
I built all,,,but the ones on the ends.....
1 Amp Charge Board.
I'm a heavy vaper, and this battery last me 2.5 days! A dual 18650 LG mod last me 1.5 days.
That is pretty cool in my book
Great job! I haven't a clue about how one would go about making one of these but I'm impressed with your ingenuity. Good on ya!
Here is the beginning of my wood box mod. The feeder needle IS the positive pin and runs through the back side switch terminal and held by the set screw. I want to confirm the rest of my connections if any one can offer assistance. Thank you.
Needle through one of the switch lugs...brilliant....neg. of your batt. holder to the 510 body (the hole in the washer...and just a tip on that, that's a pretty hefty chuck of brass, solder your wire on first, don't do it after the fact, you need a lot of heat and it'll transfer to the seals...not good)
And pos. of the batt holder to the other switch lug, you're good to go.
if you run a fuse it can be put in either the pos. or neg. connection...fuse don't care.
And pos. of the batt holder to the other switch lug, you're good to go.
if you run a fuse it can be put in either the pos. or neg. connection...fuse don't care.
Thanks Quigs. Can you send me a link to a proper fuse for the mod? I would be very appreciative.
I was planning on no solder on the switch terminal. I was just going to use the switch lug set screw to connect my 14g wire. Do you think that will provide a sufficient enough connection?
I think a fuse would be a great idea. I have no clue on sizing. Thanks again.
Thanks rhelton, Can't wait for the new DNA 40 set to release Tuesday the 14th!!
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/612526-new-dna-40-set-release.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/612526-new-dna-40-set-release.html
Here is the beginning of my wood box mod. The feeder needle IS the positive pin and runs through the back side switch terminal and held by the set screw. I want to confirm the rest of my connections if any one can offer assistance. Thank you.
That 510 center pin is spring loaded (moves) so wouldn't securing the feeder needle to the switch prevent movement?
There is no center pin. I didn't use it. The needle is the center pin...no spring either. I drilled out the delrin pin with a 3/16th and inserted 3/16th tubing through the delrin up into the cup. It protrudes a little bit so provides a good sealing cushion on the head of the needle. Turbo created this build for the FatDaddy bottom feeder kit. FatDaddy tells you to put the needle through the pins he also sells but the there is wiggle room between the needle and the pins so the conductivity would blow. Turbo's fix is unreal.
Here is the thread where Turbocad shows his modification of the FD BF attachment kit. ALSO, the pins FD sells will not work on the wood box mod 510 attys he sells. They are too short. FD is awesome but he put this stuff up before it is completely thought out and it does not work as-is. His FB page is a mess of complaints and unanswered questions. The guy just got the Dengge Fever so I cut him slack...LOL...I think he is on the mend which is good for us all.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/610911-fatdaddy-bf-attachment-kit-bf-pins.html
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Trying to go solderless?...sure, I've seen guys that have used the automotive style bayonet connectors in their mods with good results, they just take up a fair amount of space, and the connection, seeing as it's "friction fit" can be prone to V drop if it gets loose so if you're a sub ohmer, a certain amount of maintenance will be required.
Though listen to me talk about taking up space...a lot of modders have gone to PTC fuses (they trip when the current goes above their rated value, once the fault is cleared and they cool down, they fix themselves)...they're a great idea, work well and take up very little space but if I have the space I use one of these:
https://www.google.ca/search?q=auto...inline-fuseholders-mini-low-auto.php;1200;800
You can find them at almost any Pepboy's/NAPA/O'Reilly's...and get a supply of 10A fuses (if you deep sub ohm, go with 15A) and you're good to go...and again, you can put it in your pos. or neg. connection.
Ya know, I looked at FD's bf parts and noticed right away..."that's not going to work
...way too short"...to bad he's getting flamed, I understand peeps being upset but the conn. itself is a pretty good product...but they do leak until you get the gaskets just right, the provided o ring is a joke...Turbo's fix looks good (props to that guy for a lot of things), but I just drilled out the stock pos pin to take an inflator needle used to pump up footballs/basket balls and cut to length, they are typically chromed brass, but meh, brass doesn't bother me, I just keep a 1:2 solution of vinegar/hydrogen peroxide handy for a quick 10 min soak...it'll turn brass this pale yellow colour...it's all you need to negate trace lead...I like brass cause it kicks SS's .... in conductive properties, and depending on the grade of SS you use (i.e. SS fasteners you get a HD/Lowes which are typically 302/304), you may as well use brass
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