show off your mech! homebuilt mods only!

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rhelton

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WharfRat1976

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Trying to go solderless?...sure, I've seen guys that have used the automotive style bayonet connectors in their mods with good results, they just take up a fair amount of space, and the connection, seeing as it's "friction fit" can be prone to V drop if it gets loose so if you're a sub ohmer, a certain amount of maintenance will be required.

Though listen to me talk about taking up space...a lot of modders have gone to PTC fuses (they trip when the current goes above their rated value, once the fault is cleared and they cool down, they fix themselves)...they're a great idea, work well and take up very little space but if I have the space I use one of these:

https://www.google.ca/search?q=auto...inline-fuseholders-mini-low-auto.php;1200;800

You can find them at almost any Pepboy's/NAPA/O'Reilly's...and get a supply of 10A fuses (if you deep sub ohm, go with 15A) and you're good to go...and again, you can put it in your pos. or neg. connection.
Thanks Quigs! That fuse is simple enough. That's what I will use. Rather safe than sorry and will keep the guts clean looking.

Thanks also for the solderless tip and suggestion. I wasn't trying to go solder less but would love to. My positive connection is key and need a solid ground so probably will solder those.

FD advertises the longer BF pins but does not have them on the site so I thought I was buying them but not the castle so in the parts bin they go. With Turbocads fix they are obsolete anyhoo.

I love your basketball needle play. That's awesome. Drilling that regular pin must be a challenge.

Do you use stranded or solid wire and what guages?

Thanks again.
 

Quigsworth

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Im looking forward to seeing what modders have to say about it. The PBusardo video was kinda weird I dunno what to think yet. It sounds pretty cool, I cant remember can you run regular kanthal and run up to 40w all the regular deal?

I'm actually kinda surprised that DNA would bow to the market pressure of the un-informed. This VW chip "arms race" is becoming such a joke, we're playing right into the hands of the "mech tube" boys...the intent of the VV/VW chips back in the day was to flatten the discharge curve...but now, any chip capable of +30W's is nothing but gimmickry, assuming you're running deep sub (.4 or less) and you know what you're doing building coils, you should also know that the discharge curve is pretty much the same as running a straight batt.

...you have to remember, these chips don't have magical properties that increase your batt life or pull watts out of the ether, at north of 30W they provide nothing but bragging rights and an amoled screen...unless of course you really need to blue tooth into your mod to tweak the boot screen message.
 

Quigsworth

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Thanks Quigs! That fuse is simple enough. That's what I will use. Rather safe than sorry and will keep the guts clean looking.

Thanks also for the solderless tip and suggestion. I wasn't trying to go solder less but would love to. My positive connection is key and need a solid ground so probably will solder those.

FD advertises the longer BF pins but does not have them on the site so I thought I was buying them but not the castle so in the parts bin they go. With Turbocads fix they are obsolete anyhoo.

I love your basketball needle play. That's awesome. Drilling that regular pin must be a challenge.

Do you use stranded or solid wire and what guages?

Thanks again.

Go stranded, solid and bayonets has trouble written all over it...
 

Speedometerman

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Im looking forward to seeing what modders have to say about it. The PBusardo video was kinda weird I dunno what to think yet. It sounds pretty cool, I cant remember can you run regular kanthal and run up to 40w all the regular deal?

Yes you can,,,,,,,,,but it will not have the temp control with Kanthal.........
 

TUS172

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IMG_1160.jpgHere is a 26650 bottom fed... Hammond 1590B, FDV 510 (modded), 48v switch, Shapeways sled.
IMG_1158.jpg
 

Quigsworth

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Now that's a fist full, nice...still one of my fav. boxes to build in, I've got bigger hands so it feels just right, I built a clear poly 1590 for my last one and decided to go to an 18650 which gave me enough room to run a 15ml bottle...though I did have to slot the box for the extra depth

...is that an A7 on there?...haven't seen one of those in a while...not that there's anything wrong with a good 'ol A7 but if you head over to http://www.reosmods.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse&category_id=32&Itemid=3 Rob's got a great collection of bf'd RDA's

I like seeing the old school "reliable as an International Harvester" builds, well done.
 

TUS172

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...is that an A7 on there?...haven't seen one of those in a while...not that there's anything wrong with a good 'ol A7 but if you head over to http://www.reosmods.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse&category_id=32&Itemid=3 Rob's got a great collection of bf'd RDA's
I like seeing the old school "reliable as an International Harvester" builds, well done.

Thanks. Yeah it fills the hand and Yeah its the A7. Had to take down the back of the sled quite a bit but its a fit with the 15ml bottle. Epoxied and then hot glued the sled to make sure it would retain form and function. Can go a few of days with no worries.
 

WharfRat1976

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Pretty simple. Negative from batt sled to ground on the FDV 510. Positve from batt sled to one one side of switch. Positive wire from FDV 510 pin to other side of switch. Used 20 ga wire.
what did you use to clamp her needle around your bottle hoze? I like that 26650 sled..
 
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Quigsworth

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Perfect! How should I size it 10 or 15amp? Lowest build will be a .5 to .8.

The fuse is meant to protect your hardware and conductors from current it can't safely handle and should be sized accordingly, it really has nothing to do with your coil resistance...unless you go so low that "nuisance" blowing becomes a pita...I seem to recall the switch you where going to use was rated for 9A so I'd go with the 10A fuse (closest match).
 

TUS172

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what did you use to clamp her needle around your bottle hoze? I like that 26650 sled..

The tubing is 3/16" OD silicone. Very pliant stuff. It holds the needle fine but just as an insurance type thing I used a small zip tie. Been using it nonstop with absolutely no leakage from the bottle or FDV connection.
 
Yea I may just create a new thread to better suit the ecf community. Do people really not mod as much as they used too? It seems to have become a dying thing lol

mymods.jpg

Those these are not home made, I started vaping three months ago. I have spent almost 20,000 on authentic mods and I haven't slowed down. I don't think that mechanical modding is dying thing.
 
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