Sigelei #13 Switch problems

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forJAT

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Jul 21, 2009
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This is my 2nd #13 I have had in the week and a half. On both of them the switch (button) get HOT. I have tried to isolate the problem. I first thought it was the RBA I had built. I put it on my Empire and no problems firing. I rewrapped the coil put it on the #13 and got a hot button. I returned it and got a new one. Same thing on the 2nd #13 I tried multiple attys 306, 510, IGO-L, IGO-W, Pro-tank, Boge carto and I got the hot switch. So then I tried batteries .. eFest 18350, eFest 18500, AW 18650 and Panny CGR18650CH same result. The batteries are not getting warm nor is the post, spring, or actual mod (other than the top of the switch).

Probably stupidly I resolved to thinking that it was safe to use so I just cut a carto condom to use as an insulator. While watching a movie tonight I happened to noticed sparks under the plastic condom. I am not using this anymore our of fear of damage to my batteries and to my self. Any ideas anyone else having this problem?

Here is a video of the arcs. While they look minimal and can/have given more of a light show you can get the picture. Any ideas what could be causing this? I have not read any other problems like this. I really do like the mod it hits like a champ!




(To clarify I don't normally ride the switch like that when I vape)
 
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Rule62

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If you read through the MKB-TS thread, some folks are "shimming" the switch, in order to eliminate the hot button and looseness. You can do the same thing to the Sigelei #13. I've shimmed mine, and it makes a world of difference.
If you have an Ace Hardware nearby, you'll find .002 brass shim stock. You'll have to buy more than you'll ever need; but it's not that expensive.
Here's how to do it:
Remove the bottom cap; and disassemble the switch completely.
Cut a piece of your brass shim stock, exactly 15.7mm x 7mm.
Carefully roll the shim, along the 15.7mm side, around the shank of a 3/16 drill bit.
Once it's rolled, carefully slide the cylinder you made into the socket of the switch.
Before re assembly, stretch your spring slightly, so that you'll be increasing spring tension.
Reassemble the switch. Your spring will slide inside the shimmed socket, as will the shoulder on the switch button.

I think you'll find that this will not only improve performance; but will eliminate the arcing and hot button as well. If done correctly, your switch will work butter smooth.
 

forJAT

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Jul 21, 2009
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@Rule62 Thanks I am looking for some shim now. We don't have an Ace around here but there has to be somewhere in Austin that carries it. Hopefully this helps cause I really do like the #13. Home Depot or Lowes does not have it listed online.

I know that this may sound like a stupid question but is the hot switch actually pose as a danger or just a discomfort?

Then the next question is how do I take apart the switch? it appears to be press fitted together (see pic). If I can't find any shim I am going to contact the vendor to see if I can get an extension on my return window and buy some shim online.

Thanks for the response.

Picture 15.jpg
 

Rule62

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If you have a hobby shop or a craft shop, you may find .002 brass there.
The button unscrews from the switch shaft. It might be a little tight to unscrew with your fingers.
Take the bottom cap off. Press the button a little but. Enough to allow yourself to grab the inner shoulder of the switch with needle nose pliers from inside the tube. Hold on to the pliers while you unscrew the button from the outside.
 

Rapture

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is the switch glued in to the tube. Or is it stuck with lock tight. How do i get it out without scratching it up with pliers? I swear that my switch is like glued in or something because i noticed on the inside of the tube there is some dryed up crud that looked like it leaked down the tube from the switch. I dont like that. other than that i love this thing. its my first side button mod. The switch does get warm though and i want to order a switch from vaportek for back up and do some modding on this one.
 
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