Sigelei 150w and tugboat v2

[dusty_ballz34]

Hello all,

I am far from new to building but just got a high wattage device. Looking for a decent build that doesn't slam the battery but still has a hot vape. My seemed go to so far is .2 ohms at 80watts using 22g. Any suggestions help (including advanced coils) that will save battery but not sacrifice the heat!
Thanks in advance

 

[nyiddle]

My preferred build is .6 ohms. 14 wraps with 26ga Kanthal dual coil. Hit it with 70-80W and HOOO BOY. Nice vape.

 

[Wraith504]

hmmm maybe some 28 gauge parallels? should ramp quick and wouldnt suck much battery to get them to heat up. Smaller ID coils will also ramp faster giving you the heat you are wanting and should be better on your batt life. Simple solution try positioning the airflow further away from your build?

 

[Eekins]

24ga dual coils 6/7 wraps, usually reads at .5 or .4 ohms. I run it at around 55watts, around 4.7v and its a pretty decent hit and i find it daves my battery

 

[dusty_ballz34]

hmmm maybe some 28 gauge parallels? should ramp quick and wouldnt suck much battery to get them to heat up. Smaller ID coils will also ramp faster giving you the heat you are wanting and should be better on your batt life. Simple solution try positioning the airflow further away from your build?

That is one thing I have tried yet (parallels) thanks for the reminder they exist

 

[Ryedan]

Hello all,

I am far from new to building but just got a high wattage device. Looking for a decent build that doesn't slam the battery but still has a hot vape. My seemed go to so far is .2 ohms at 80watts using 22g. Any suggestions help (including advanced coils) that will save battery but not sacrifice the heat!
Thanks in advance

As far as battery current draw is concerned, all that influences this is the watts you set. Resistance only matters in VV or mechanical mods.

When you say 'not sacrifice the heat', do you mean you're looking for a hot vape?

 

[dusty_ballz34]

As far as battery current draw is concerned, all that influences this is the watts you set. Resistance only matters in VV or mechanical mods.

When you say 'not sacrifice the heat', do you mean you're looking for a hot vape?

Makes sense and yes I enjoy hotter Vapes

 

[Ryedan]

Makes sense and yes I enjoy hotter Vapes

I don't know if you're familiar with the Steam Engine coil building calculator. I've been using them for a while now, specially the one for coil building. I find that if you build for a set watt number, vape temperature will increase as your your heat flux rises.

Here's your .2 ohm, 80watts, 22g modeled in Steam Engine using a 2.5 mm pin. I assumed dual coils because a single coil with these specs would be too hot. The heat flux is 220 mW/mm². The only way you're going to increase the heat flux using 22 gauge wire at is to use less wire which means lower resistance.

Here it is using 24 gauge wire at 0.3 ohms. The heat flux has increased to 294. Change the ohms to 0.25 and you get 353 mW/mm². I've gone as high as the low 400's without burning juice, but at 80 watts that gets pretty hot.

You might actually find that with higher heat flux you can lower the watts a bit and still have a better vape. It's all about experimenting and finding out what you like.

That's all I've got, but it may give you some ideas on ways to change your vape. Have fun

 

[dusty_ballz34]

I don't know if you're familiar with the Steam Engine coil building calculator. I've been using them for a while now, specially the one for coil building. I find that if you build for a set watt number, vape temperature will increase as your your heat flux rises.

Here's your .2 ohm, 80watts, 22g modeled in Steam Engine using a 2.5 mm pin. I assumed dual coils because a single coil with these specs would be too hot. The heat flux is 220 mW/mm². The only way you're going to increase the heat flux using 22 gauge wire at is to use less wire which means lower resistance.

Here it is using 24 gauge wire at 0.3 ohms. The heat flux has increased to 294. Change the ohms to 0.25 and you get 353 mW/mm². I've gone as high as the low 400's without burning juice, but at 80 watts that gets pretty hot.

You might actually find that with higher heat flux you can lower the watts a bit and still have a better vape. It's all about experimenting and finding out what you like.

That's all I've got, but it may give you some ideas on ways to change your vape. Have fun

Wow that is awesome! I will definitely be playing with this and seeing what I can do. SCIENCE! Thank you very much

 

[Ryedan]

Wow that is awesome! I will definitely be playing with this and seeing what I can do. SCIENCE! Thank you very much

You're very welcome. Please let us know how it goes.

 

[silenuz]

As far as battery current draw is concerned, all that influences this is the watts you set. Resistance only matters in VV or mechanical mods.

When you say 'not sacrifice the heat', do you mean you're looking for a hot vape?

At 70 watts a 2 ohm coil draws 5.92 amps. A .2 ohm coil draws 18.71. Mechanical or regulated.

 

[Ryedan]

At 70 watts a 2 ohm coil draws 5.92 amps. A .2 ohm coil draws 18.71. Mechanical or regulated.

It doesn't matter what the resistance is when you're vaping in VW mode since the DC-DC regulator controls the mods output. Batteries do not change their voltage, the regulator takes battery output and changes the voltage to what is correct to keep the watts at set point for the resistance in the atty. What remains constant is power (watts) out from the batteries equals power out from the mod plus regulator inefficiency loss.

The Sigelei 150 has 2 batteries in series. Here is the Steam Engine battery drain calculator. Leave it set for 'power regulation (VW)', enter 2 ohms for 'Atomizer resistance', enter 70 watts for 'Power (wattage) setting' and make the 'Battery voltage' 6 volts (2 batteries in series so the volts add up) which is about the lowest they will ever be and amp draw will be the highest. In the 'Battery drain' window you'll see that battery drain current will be 12.96A each. Change the resistance to 0.2 ohms and battery draw stays at 12.96A. Increase the battery voltage to 8.4V as it will be with fresh batteries and you'll see battery amp draw has gone down to 9.26A each. I'm leaving battery voltage drop out of the equation at 8.4V, but it doesn't affect the outcome as we should be calculating at lowest voltage anyway for battery safety.

This is of course not the way it works with mechanical mods or when setting volts in a regulated mod. Battery current draw with a mechanical is highest at 4.2V per battery so use 4.2V with a single battery mod for these calcs. In a VV mod use 3V for a single battery mod as that works the same as in VW. If you set this up in the calculator you'll see that the lower the resistance the higher the battery current draw becomes.

Hope this helps.

 

[silenuz]

Hmm I see what you are saying.. Well that makes sense, I guess I never really understood how the regulation worked in regulated mods.

Time to do some more reading.
Thanks!

 

[Fr3aKO]

150w??? thats sick! lol