Sigelei #8 Bottom Cap causing (non)firing problem.

[aeroforce156]

When I first got the sigelei #8 mechanical mod it was working. Every few times I hit the button it wouldn't fire. I heard about sanding down the post to reveal the brass. Now that I've sanded the post and the contact point on the firing button I'm getting no firing at all. I have a draw tube just for laughs I took out the bottom cap and put it on the sigelei tube. The sigelei fires with the draw tubes bottom cap. But wont fire with the cap it came with.

The button is making contact with the bottom post. I still have the original spring it came with in there....

 

[Rader2146]

The #8's have some issues where the button's pin is too short to contact the center post on the bottom cap. Try unscrewing the button just a little bit. If it works you can pick up some blue (non-permanent) Loctite to secure the button in place.

 

[aeroforce156]

The #8's have some issues where the button's pin is too short to contact the center post on the bottom cap. Try unscrewing the button just a little bit. If it works you can pick up some blue (non-permanent) Loctite to secure the button in place.

Unscrewing the button only makes it farther away from the post... Is there any known mod to increase the length of the button. How about brass plating? I feel like if I could get the post re-plated it could work. I still had some problems with it not firing when it had the original chrome plating.

I wrapped the post in aluminum foil which has made it able to fire but it's got obvious voltage loss with this ghetto rig.

I'm thinking about scrapping the POS and buying a rainbow... :/ idk My Draw Tube didn't give me any issues but now that that's sold I'll end up buying another one xD ...

 

[Rader2146]

The problem is that the button is contacting the switch body before the pin is contacting the center post. Uncsrewing the button will move the button further away from the switch body, letting the pin contact the post before the button bottom out against the switch body. It is increasing the switch travel distance. Firing with the aluminum foil proves this. Unscrew the button (while holding the pin from the inside) 1/2 to 1 full turn and see if it works.

 

[aeroforce156]

The problem is that the button is contacting the switch body before the pin is contacting the center post. Uncsrewing the button will move the button further away from the switch body, letting the pin contact the post before the button bottom out against the switch body. It is increasing the switch travel distance. Firing with the aluminum foil proves this. Unscrew the button (while holding the pin from the inside) 1/2 to 1 full turn and see if it works.

I didn't realize the button moved at all when you twist it. The switch assembly all seems to be 1 solid piece. When I get home I'll take a look at it but I'm pretty sure the pin doesn't move closer to the bottom post when twisting the button.

I thought you meant unscrew the switch assembly which would take the pin even farther from the bottom post.

Is there a way to remove the locking nut completely?

 

[aeroforce156]

The #8's have some issues where the button's pin is too short to contact the center post on the bottom cap. Try unscrewing the button just a little bit. If it works you can pick up some blue (non-permanent) Loctite to secure the button in place.

Okay so the #8 was laying around. I've been using an empire clone and have a #20 pre-ordered.

I had a draw tube that I sold to my roommate. I had a spare button for the draw tube and figured it would work if it fit in the #8.

I used a dremel to widen the hole for the #8 original switch, used JB Weld SteelStik put the drawtube replacement switch into position. I made a freakin mess so I was using the polishing tool with the dremel to clean it up. Another quick 5 min polish and she'll be good as new.

Oh btw... Hits like a freakin champ! Better than before I sanded the chrome off when it was hit/miss spotty firing.

If you need any details let me know. Also if you could spread the word if you find others with this issue. The replacement button is sold for 6$ at vaporbank.com

 

[koolkloud]

I have a similar issue with my sigelei #8. It does fire but it's a very slow fire. I took it apart and tried some of the advice here as sanding down the switch pin to bring out the brass and still the same slow fire. I then tried my igo-L on a friends mod and it fired like a champ.... so obviously its my sigelei #8. Can any help please thanks.

 

[Rader2146]

If the switch pin is the only thing that you have sanded, there is more to gain. Here is what I've done...

Modding the Sigelei #8 for maximum performance.

 

[koolkloud]

If the switch pin is the only thing that you have sanded, there is more to gain. Here is what I've done...

Modding the Sigelei #8 for maximum performance.

thanks so much! Im gonna give this a try today

 

[maf2k8]

I am having the SAME exact issue! I did all the sanding down that everyone has mentioned on the forum of the various spots and points. It seems i have to really push hard to her it to fire good!

Can you post the steps you took to fix the issue?

Thanks so much!

When I first got the Sigelei #8 mechanical mod it was working. Every few times I hit the button it wouldn't fire. I heard about sanding down the post to reveal the brass. Now that I've sanded the post and the contact point on the firing button I'm getting no firing at all. I have a draw tube just for laughs I took out the bottom cap and put it on the Sigelei tube. The Sigelei fires with the draw tubes bottom cap. But wont fire with the cap it came with.

The button is making contact with the bottom post. I still have the original spring it came with in there....

 

[maf2k8]

Ok well a update on my situation.

I ordered the spring that someone suggested in another thread from amazon. Got it today, cut it down to size and it seems to hit very good now? I did though remove the switch from the tube earlier today and i dont see how the actual pin itself comes of the switch? i removed the entire switch assembly from the tube but dont see how the pin removes from the switch?

but as of now, the upgraded spring ( even though my #8 has the newer spring ) seems to be a huge improvement at the moment.

 

[Rader2146]

The button unscrews from the pin. It probably has some locktite on it and will need some heat to break the bond. A BiC lighter, mini-torch, or the burner flame of a gas range will do the trick. Doesnt take too much heat.

 

[Vash]

Im having same issue.I messed up threads on locking part but put new spring and backed off button and hits great now.Plan on using it at home anways so locking nut isnt that big of issue.

 

[manonthemoon]

Ok well a update on my situation.

I ordered the spring that someone suggested in another thread from amazon. Got it today, cut it down to size and it seems to hit very good now? I did though remove the switch from the tube earlier today and i dont see how the actual pin itself comes of the switch? i removed the entire switch assembly from the tube but dont see how the pin removes from the switch?

but as of now, the upgraded spring ( even though my #8 has the newer spring ) seems to be a huge improvement at the moment.

Can you post a link to the spring on Amazon?