So, I was too lazy to go look for washers. I present to you, the trimmed carto mouthpiece short throw switch. Basically just the rubber grommet i used out of an old carto cut in half and trimmed around the post.
Sigelei Mechnical Mods
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Got my #8 today from Hoosier! Excellent condition, only one tiny scratch just above the button. Threading was very nice too. HAPPY to see what appears to be an adjustable/replaceable 510 power pin? Hit the threads with a very light coat of noalox (a different brand but same thing), lightly sanded down the power button post to (mostly) brass. Haven't sanded the spring post or done the deletion yet... Still looking for more detailed instructions on the deletion. Tossed a panny CGR18650CH in it and it hits like a landslide! I tried a few different RBAs on it too, just to see. It even likes my 2.1 ohm Phoenix clone. Tried it on my really fat 2.0 ohm (4 wicks of 3mm) smok rda Octopus and that is the only one it doesn't seem to like very much? I plan to rewick for around 0.8-1.0 ohms anyway.
A few vendors have been doing pre-orders on them. I'd keep an eye on http://.........blogspot.com/ and maybe his facebook page too (news hits there first a lot of the time): https://www.facebook.com/groups/Vapedeal/
Exhalevapors has already done TWO pre-orders on the #19 but they tend to sell out in a matter of hours. I'm sure he'll do another one as soon as they get caught up on the first two. Best of luck!
I used some on my two, but I used penetrating grade green permatex thread-locker and it got on the button and was causing it to stick. But the green is made for bolts that are already assembled as it is super thin and wicks into the threads. I think blue would be ok. I used some on my CCTS and it worked great. You could probably get away with just tightening the button up as forg1vn said.
As for the RDA, I would wrap a coil between 0.8-1.2 and it will work great with the Sigelei. The higher ohm is used on VV/VW devices. I have a DID clone that I wrapped at 1.4 ohm on my eVic and it works great. For all my mechanicals I use 0.8-1.2 ohm with 28g to 30g wire.
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That's my plan! I'm just surprised that it hits very nice on all my similar ohm RDAs except that *one*. They are all right around 2.0 ohms and the Smok RDA works fine on the Vamo (as do they all) but not on the S8 for some reason. The only difference is that most of my other RDAs are single 2 or 3mm with 32 or 34 gauge kanthal... the smok RDA is 4 wicks of 3mm wrapped with 30 gauge. Still reads like 2.1 ohms. I've got 28 gauge I'm going to use to get down closer to the golden 1 ohm mark, got a second AGA-T2 I plan to get down there as well and an IGO-L coming in the mail that I'm reserving for low ohm use too.
Here's a quick video I made to review my #8 I just received. This is before I broke the switch trying to take it apart to put flat washers in. =(
The machining on the Smok Octopus is no where near as nice as the IGO-L but considering that if you shop carefully you can buy TWO Smoks for the price of one IGO... I have both
The smok likes to wobble unless it's pretty tight in the 510 connection. I'm not impressed with the factory air hole but it works if you are careful not to overfill it. The factory o-rings are little loose on my two Smok's but a little dental floss fixed one and the hardware store had slightly larger o-rings I'm trying on the second. It's a VERY tight fit and I'm waiting for it to break in a bit. On the positive side the Smok is aluminum and relatively easy to drill a new air hole in the side of the cap (a popular mod for these). It's also fairly easy to work with, as far as getting a new coil on the thing.
I ordered an IGO because I like the build quality, the appearance, airhole placement, and it has a bit of a bowl to hold juice where the smok is completely flat.
Any dripper is superior to all the carts and tanks I've tried, IMHO.
How did it break? Did the threaded part just snap off in the button head? I can send you my old button head and post from the 13B.
The head snapped off... guess my husband was holding it too tight with the pliers. Thanks for the offer Lhartman89... I already have someone sending me a replacement as we speak.
#8. Measured the screw to fit perfectly with my choice of 18650 and 18350 batteries.used the spring only to stabilize the screw without any permanent modification. Screw touches bottom of the negstive post cup. Brass on brass contact. takes care of the voltage drop caused by the spring.
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That's awesome! Do you remember what screw it was that you used???? No permanent modification to the spring or anything?
Thats a friggen nice mod. Something I can do without breaking anything. HAHAHA
Im not sure on the size. Just something I had in my screw box. It came from home depot though and they don't have many brass screws to choose from. Any brass screw that will fit in the spring tightly without screwing into the spring is fine. Gives you a little room to work with. I have 4 different brass screws that will fit and do the job.
The machining on the Smok Octopus is no where near as nice as the IGO-L but considering that if you shop carefully you can buy TWO Smoks for the price of one IGO... I have both
The smok likes to wobble unless it's pretty tight in the 510 connection. I'm not impressed with the factory air hole but it works if you are careful not to overfill it. The factory o-rings are little loose on my two Smok's but a little dental floss fixed one and the hardware store had slightly larger o-rings I'm trying on the second. It's a VERY tight fit and I'm waiting for it to break in a bit. On the positive side the Smok is aluminum and relatively easy to drill a new air hole in the side of the cap (a popular mod for these). It's also fairly easy to work with, as far as getting a new coil on the thing.
I ordered an IGO because I like the build quality, the appearance, airhole placement, and it has a bit of a bowl to hold juice where the smok is completely flat.
Any dripper is superior to all the carts and tanks I've tried, IMHO.
Thanks. I think ill go with the IGO. Hopefully someone buys my eVic in the classifields so i can place a pre-order for my nimbus.
Waiting for my #19 is killing me hahaha
Ran to the hardware store, sanded the chrome off the *inside* of the negative post as well as the outside, put a #6 brass screw on the grinder for a couple of bumps, seems to fit well! I haven't put it on a meter yet to see what the drop is but it sure seems like it hits harder!
Thanks for the tips!
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