I like to refer to the cobra clones as the cobla
Sigelei Mechnical Mods
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I like to refer to the cobra clones as the cobla
I really appreciate your feedback guys! I hemmed and hawed and and been contemplating it anyway so "i just got a provari" for him. He'll use the flashlight holder he says. (He's using an 1100 ego mah so it's not much weight slinging around on the lanyard). I'm thing the provari will be much heavier?
We were checking out those proclips as well..
Thanks again
The standard ProVari is significantly heavier than an ego. Big thick-wall SS tube vs small thin-walled SS tube. Love my ProVaris. Love most of my others too though. (I've gotten rid of the ones I didn't like.
)
#20 v drop and flush mount link
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/showthread.php?p=10013659
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/showthread.php?p=10013659
Thanks! Copied to a folder for reference.
Still want to work up a better switch contact and possible floating contact.
Not convinced the spring is adequate for UL ohm loads.
I had my #20 V2 switch completely disassembled and ready for the flush mount modification to begin, when I came across this...
https://www.facebook.com/marc.gunn.ecigreview/posts/10200147137109779?comment_id=53397016&offset=0&total_comments=23¬if_t=feed_comment_reply
To save you the trouble...
This is not the first, and probably won't be the last time the spring in the switch fails. My #20 will remain unused until I can find a way to ditch the spring for something better. You folks can do what you like, but please remove your battery when you're not using the mod. When somebody gets hurt or there is newsworthy property damage as a direct result of an e-cig, it will bring the worst kind of attention our way.
Edit: I forgot that this is exactly why I bought a couple of short-stop fuzes. I will use my #20 occasionally with a short-stop, removing the battery when not in use and I will never put this thing in my pocket. The search for a switch modification continues...
https://www.facebook.com/marc.gunn.ecigreview/posts/10200147137109779?comment_id=53397016&offset=0&total_comments=23¬if_t=feed_comment_reply
To save you the trouble...
This is not the first, and probably won't be the last time the spring in the switch fails. My #20 will remain unused until I can find a way to ditch the spring for something better. You folks can do what you like, but please remove your battery when you're not using the mod. When somebody gets hurt or there is newsworthy property damage as a direct result of an e-cig, it will bring the worst kind of attention our way.
Edit: I forgot that this is exactly why I bought a couple of short-stop fuzes. I will use my #20 occasionally with a short-stop, removing the battery when not in use and I will never put this thing in my pocket. The search for a switch modification continues...
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I see all kinds of people asking for a #20 switch mod. I completely reworked my switch a bit over a month ago and it is still going strong. My #20 now has an adjustable brass center center pin, and does not require a weird (and potentially weldable) spring to make contact.
Keep in mind that this mod is not perfect. I occasionally have misfires (probably about one out of every 10 times I hit the switch). However, the following modification has eased my mind about the possibility of a welded switch, and also hits a hell of a lot harder than the stock switch. As usual, any attempt to follow this modification is at your own risk - I don't warrant or otherwise guarantee that this will work for you or that it will be safe for you. YMMV. You also risk completely destroying the switch if you undertake this modification, rendering your mod completely useless.
Disclaimer over. I ordered some 3/16" brass rod off of amazon. This brass rod is the central part of the modification to the switch.
The first part of the mod is to completely disassemble your switch head. There are plenty of other tutorials around for this, so I'm not going to repeat them.
I started by cutting about a 4" piece of the rod for the top post. Then I carefully drilled and tapped about a 1" long hole in the center of the rod along its axis. A drill press and a good drill press vice are incredibly helpful in centering and drilling the hole. The tapped hole should accept either an 8-32 screw or a 6-32 screw. I then cut this entire drilled and tapped portion off of the remaining rod. Keep in mind that it is helpful to have a bit too much drilled and tapped portion of the rod. You will need a proper size and pitch set screw to serve as the adjustable top pin. Preferably this screw would be solid brass. I ended up making my own because the only brass set screws I could find were terribly expensive. To make your own, just get a longer machine screw, cut it off, and cut a slot in the cut off end to accept a flat blade screwdriver.
You'll also want to cut a short length of brass rod (about 1" long, and not drilled or tapped) to serve as the bottom post.
The final preparatory step for the top and bottom brass posts is to sand or file a slight bevel onto the edge of the post. This is where the button will make contact with the posts. You'll want this bevel to match the bevel on the contact side of the button as close as possible to have the most surface area for contact.
The next step is by far the most difficult part of the process - this is to set the brass rods in the delrin switch housing at the proper depth so that the button can bridge the gap between the posts and make good contact, without having the brass posts actually touch each other. You'll first need to drill out the post holes in the delrin to accept your 3/16" brass rod. Then you need to set the depth of the brass rods. How I did this was I inserted the brass rods (threaded one at the top) into the delrin switch housing and then inserted the assembled button housing into the delrin switch housing. I then pushed the button, and fiddled with the bottom post until it felt like I had good contact between the switch and the bottom post. You can check this by placing a multimeter across the button and the bottom post to check for continuity. Repeat the process with the top post. Once you are sure that your top and bottom posts are placed perfectly, check the continuity across the top and bottom posts with the button pressed (should show no more than about 0.2 ohms of resistance) and with the button open (should be no continuity). Once you are absolutely sure that your brass rods are ideally placed, use some superglue or epoxy to set the brass rods in the delrin switch housing. Check continuity again here. Pull the button housing back out at this point used some more superglue or epoxy on the inside to further set the brass rods in place.
I also mechanically set the bottom brass rod in place by drilling straight through the delrin housing and the bottom brass rod and inserting a proper size roll pin. The bottom pin will generally have much more pressure exerted on it than the top pin. On the top pin, I relied exclusively on glue to hold it in place. You could possibly use some sort of set screw to hold the top pin in place though.
The next step is to cut/sand the protruding brass rods to the proper length. I used sand paper and hand sanded them to the right length. This took quite a bit of patience. I sanded the top rod flush with the delrin housing. The bottom pin I sanded to the point where it protrudes about 1/8" from the housing. Be careful not to build too much heat here - you could potentially melt the delrin housing.
Finally, test continuty again, and assuming all is well, reassemble the switch head and vape your head off. Here are some pics of the modifications:
Other modifications that I've done to the #20 include sanding the top brass insert so that attys will sit flush, replaced the bottom spring with a brass screw (be careful with this as we're talking about the removal of this device's sole safety feature), and replaced the interior delrin washer with an o-ring to seal the atomizer connection area. Keep in mind that with any modification, you are potentially taking your life into your hands. Be sure that you know what you are doing and the potential risks entailed before you start.
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using Tapatalk 4 Beta
Keep in mind that this mod is not perfect. I occasionally have misfires (probably about one out of every 10 times I hit the switch). However, the following modification has eased my mind about the possibility of a welded switch, and also hits a hell of a lot harder than the stock switch. As usual, any attempt to follow this modification is at your own risk - I don't warrant or otherwise guarantee that this will work for you or that it will be safe for you. YMMV. You also risk completely destroying the switch if you undertake this modification, rendering your mod completely useless.
Disclaimer over. I ordered some 3/16" brass rod off of amazon. This brass rod is the central part of the modification to the switch.
The first part of the mod is to completely disassemble your switch head. There are plenty of other tutorials around for this, so I'm not going to repeat them.
I started by cutting about a 4" piece of the rod for the top post. Then I carefully drilled and tapped about a 1" long hole in the center of the rod along its axis. A drill press and a good drill press vice are incredibly helpful in centering and drilling the hole. The tapped hole should accept either an 8-32 screw or a 6-32 screw. I then cut this entire drilled and tapped portion off of the remaining rod. Keep in mind that it is helpful to have a bit too much drilled and tapped portion of the rod. You will need a proper size and pitch set screw to serve as the adjustable top pin. Preferably this screw would be solid brass. I ended up making my own because the only brass set screws I could find were terribly expensive. To make your own, just get a longer machine screw, cut it off, and cut a slot in the cut off end to accept a flat blade screwdriver.
You'll also want to cut a short length of brass rod (about 1" long, and not drilled or tapped) to serve as the bottom post.
The final preparatory step for the top and bottom brass posts is to sand or file a slight bevel onto the edge of the post. This is where the button will make contact with the posts. You'll want this bevel to match the bevel on the contact side of the button as close as possible to have the most surface area for contact.
The next step is by far the most difficult part of the process - this is to set the brass rods in the delrin switch housing at the proper depth so that the button can bridge the gap between the posts and make good contact, without having the brass posts actually touch each other. You'll first need to drill out the post holes in the delrin to accept your 3/16" brass rod. Then you need to set the depth of the brass rods. How I did this was I inserted the brass rods (threaded one at the top) into the delrin switch housing and then inserted the assembled button housing into the delrin switch housing. I then pushed the button, and fiddled with the bottom post until it felt like I had good contact between the switch and the bottom post. You can check this by placing a multimeter across the button and the bottom post to check for continuity. Repeat the process with the top post. Once you are sure that your top and bottom posts are placed perfectly, check the continuity across the top and bottom posts with the button pressed (should show no more than about 0.2 ohms of resistance) and with the button open (should be no continuity). Once you are absolutely sure that your brass rods are ideally placed, use some superglue or epoxy to set the brass rods in the delrin switch housing. Check continuity again here. Pull the button housing back out at this point used some more superglue or epoxy on the inside to further set the brass rods in place.
I also mechanically set the bottom brass rod in place by drilling straight through the delrin housing and the bottom brass rod and inserting a proper size roll pin. The bottom pin will generally have much more pressure exerted on it than the top pin. On the top pin, I relied exclusively on glue to hold it in place. You could possibly use some sort of set screw to hold the top pin in place though.
The next step is to cut/sand the protruding brass rods to the proper length. I used sand paper and hand sanded them to the right length. This took quite a bit of patience. I sanded the top rod flush with the delrin housing. The bottom pin I sanded to the point where it protrudes about 1/8" from the housing. Be careful not to build too much heat here - you could potentially melt the delrin housing.
Finally, test continuty again, and assuming all is well, reassemble the switch head and vape your head off. Here are some pics of the modifications:
Other modifications that I've done to the #20 include sanding the top brass insert so that attys will sit flush, replaced the bottom spring with a brass screw (be careful with this as we're talking about the removal of this device's sole safety feature), and replaced the interior delrin washer with an o-ring to seal the atomizer connection area. Keep in mind that with any modification, you are potentially taking your life into your hands. Be sure that you know what you are doing and the potential risks entailed before you start.
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using Tapatalk 4 Beta
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Ditto. Heck, if you're in central Texas I'll drive it over.
I'll do all the monotonous sanding. It's the brass rod, tap and die that I don't want to buy just for this one mod.
Good looking switch mod cg.
I was going to mod the 20 switch similarly....by similarly I mean by eliminating the spring.
While I haven't had any issues (very little use) IMHO the spring is dangerous because there isn't anything to keep the spring from arcing and sticking to the top post. The button retracting and even locking doesn't do anything to pull the contact spring away from the top post.
I was going to mod the 20 switch similarly....by similarly I mean by eliminating the spring.
While I haven't had any issues (very little use) IMHO the spring is dangerous because there isn't anything to keep the spring from arcing and sticking to the top post. The button retracting and even locking doesn't do anything to pull the contact spring away from the top post.
I got the #29 but i knocked off the ridged sleeve and wanted to cover it with something else. Playing around, i decided to try some nailpolish. I kinda love it. Plus if i wanna change it, just bust out the acetone.
As long as you don't use sub ohm on the #20 they are fine
I'm sorry Whit77 but I gotta totally disagree with you on this on. The #20 MAY be fine for now.....But there are LOTS of folks reporting issues and some are right out of the box with a standard ohm. I frequent several forums as I know you do as well. You must see the pattern right?
I too have modded mine and do NOT have any springs, just a solid two brass pin contact and mine is totally trustworthy now. I agree with the others. This #20 should have not been sold as is and is a major safety hazard as it is sold.
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I regularly use mine with a 0.8 ohm gennie tank and a 1.4 ohm Vivi nova tank. I was UN aware of the potential hazard that looms above my head or in my hands so to speak. I might have to take this apart and see what might be able to be done. What about using a switch similar to the iSeason or KTS? All that's needed is a threaded ability in the delrin and a contact area .....
Sent from the 804
Sent from the 804
Any reason to use brass rod for the contacts instead of copper? I put no-ox-id on all my copper parts, actually I use it on all my connections in every mod. I haven't been doing this for very long, but it's supposed to last for many years.
I'm not sure about the necessity of a screw in the top pin/510 connection. It was a fixed height before and worked fine. Before I attempt to find some 3/16" brass or copper rod, would it be a bad idea to epoxy a 3/16" inch diameter piece of delrin between the top and bottom pins? I want to be absolutely sure the pins don't touch each other, but if it's just going to melt that would not be good. This may be a rather easy modification once the rod material is sourced.
I'm not sure about the necessity of a screw in the top pin/510 connection. It was a fixed height before and worked fine. Before I attempt to find some 3/16" brass or copper rod, would it be a bad idea to epoxy a 3/16" inch diameter piece of delrin between the top and bottom pins? I want to be absolutely sure the pins don't touch each other, but if it's just going to melt that would not be good. This may be a rather easy modification once the rod material is sourced.
Indeed as you say I frequent several forums, and I have indeed seen a pattern, 99% of the time the user has been using a sub ohm coil, heck if you read through this thread their was a guy recently who put the mod in a cup holder in his car with the button in the on position, guess what happend. I'm not saying their isn't a issue with the switch, but from what I've seen most failures (not all) of the spring have been down to using sub ohm coils being used on the device or some form of user error involved
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Yea, also do anyone knows ehpro ea's dimensions? (Both 18650 and 18350)
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: Where can i get that?
The EH Pro EA clone in my opinion would be much better than the #13. But it is telescopic.
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