Sadly, no. Its a design flaw. Are the atties pins adjustable?
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Sigelei Mechnical Mods
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It is usually much simpler to mod/adjust/lower the Atty pin. What is she using? Only pins I really have issue with are Boge Cartos. Still, a bit of wiggling and they reach.
If you can solder you could try a little dab on top of the 510 pin, or you could try sanding down the ring around the 510 pin. If you can find a threaded collar bolt that was the right size you could swap out the 510 pin on top.
Thanks guys. She's using the aspire Davide's BDCs. I can pull it out of the atty I bit but it eventually gets pushed back in. Great ideas. I'll try sanding down the 510 threads a tad and if that don't work I'll try the solder. Thanks!!
I'll look up what a threaded collar bolt is. But swap out? Are you saying the pin in the 20 is a bolt and I can swap it with a longer one?
The "New " #20 has a threaded center pin, so you can remove it to add/subtract length, or replace it with a longer brass screw:
Just take the center pin to a Hardware store & match the threading & buy a bag/box of longer BRASS screws that you can cut to the required length & you're set.... I think they are Metric M3 or M5 threads (not positive), but any brass screw that's the same diameter, or slightly larger will work. Since you are threading it into Delrin, it will re-cut the threads as you screw them in. Just make sure you retain the little delrin sleeve inside the top piece so the center pin doesn't touch it...otherwise you will short it out.
Good luck
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PBusardo had commented that the Aspire center pin as needing to be pulled out repeatedly as a negative on these style clearomizers.
OK. Is there a step by step in here for taking the #20 with apart? I pulled the small brass pin out of the bottom. Then nothing looks to come apart easily. Just start taking, twisting and prying? Or what
I keep looking at your post and wondering why nobody's answered the question... I don't have a 20.. yet. From the pictures, I have to assume that the top will simply unscrew but it's seated in delrim so it's not actually threaded beyond being screwed into something that doesn't mind being self tapped. I would think (although I could quite easily be mistaken) that if you put on your rubber type gloves or carefully covered pliers and grab hold of the top, you can just unscrew it - it won't want to be unscrewed but that's just the nature of the beast.
As you've already taken the bottom screw out, there's nothing holding the top part in place beyond friction so it should just unscrew.
But, as I've already mentioned, I'm gathering this from the pictures.....
Switch comes out, disk firs then the pin that resides in the Delrin sleeve. Then, the whole assembly comes out thru the bottom. You have to tap it out with something. Easy peasy
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Thanks guys. Mine doesn't look like the one in namvet's pic or like it could be done the way either of you suggest. I wonder if I really got a fixed one? Or they changed it? I'll try and post some pics tonight. But, now I have a bigger problem.
First, how firm do you tighten down these mechs with a spring at the bottom? I'm used to tightening all my mechs down pretty firm to make sure I'm getting the best connection.
I'm wondering if I'm tightening too tight and smashing the spring. I was using the #20 on a RBA last night. Tightened down tight. Couldn't get a connection and suddenly the bottom started warming up. Took it apart. Spring was pretty flat. I took it out and stretch it a bit. But, it back in and then the bottom and the button was getting hot. Took the battery out and it was VERY warm. Left the batter out and put the #20 in the drawer.
First, how firm do you tighten down these mechs with a spring at the bottom? I'm used to tightening all my mechs down pretty firm to make sure I'm getting the best connection.
I'm wondering if I'm tightening too tight and smashing the spring. I was using the #20 on a RBA last night. Tightened down tight. Couldn't get a connection and suddenly the bottom started warming up. Took it apart. Spring was pretty flat. I took it out and stretch it a bit. But, it back in and then the bottom and the button was getting hot. Took the battery out and it was VERY warm. Left the batter out and put the #20 in the drawer.
Hep??? Just streched the spring out replaced and tried again. It got hot
Is there a mod to use something solid (bolt?) Instead of the spring on the 20? (Just got it from 101vape. They say it's the fixed switch. Should I contact them or did I muck it up?)
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Pizza2me - your switch is a Hybrid of the Old style TOP with the New Style LOCK Ring
That said, you will likely need the OLD instructions to disassemble - with one exception> Removing the Lock ring.
If the lock ring threads to the Delron - it should be screwed in and the button can be pulled out.
If the lock ring screws to the Head(metal) it may have to be removed first. Maybe screwed completely out? Not sure.
That said, you will likely need the OLD instructions to disassemble - with one exception> Removing the Lock ring.
If the lock ring threads to the Delron - it should be screwed in and the button can be pulled out.
If the lock ring screws to the Head(metal) it may have to be removed first. Maybe screwed completely out? Not sure.
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Perfect!! Thanks crxess
Edit: I think. I'll know when I try again tonight and compare. On a good note 101vape is sending me a replacement switch just in case it was defective.
Edit: I think. I'll know when I try again tonight and compare. On a good note 101vape is sending me a replacement switch just in case it was defective.
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Thanks again crxess. The good news is that I got a the replacement switch from 101vape and nothing is getting hot AND I can use what you show here to tear the old one apart without concern of breaking it. The bad news is I'm getting a lot of misfires. I think it is the spring that got flattened when it got hot the first round. I streched it out, etc... but whenever I get no fire it always works after I fiddle with the spring.
Is there a recommended replacement spring that you mention? Or, even better, does somebody have a mod idea replacing the spring with something solid like a bold? I haven't thoroughly cleaned it yet. It is just one of my backups but I would like to get it working consistantly.
Do folks put noalox under the springs? I remember reading somewhere in these pages that it helps conductivity as well as threading.
Replacement Hot Spring - Silver Bullet/Omega - AltSmoke
A little work to get seated in the cap but an excellent spring.
Noalox is for threading to avoid locked threads/seizing.
For now, scuff your spring top and head contact with an emery board or 400 sandpaper
A little work to get seated in the cap but an excellent spring.
Noalox is for threading to avoid locked threads/seizing.
For now, scuff your spring top and head contact with an emery board or 400 sandpaper
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Cool! I have one of those for my SB! But I couldn't get it in. I guess I'll have to give it that extra effort. Thanks. I thought I read somewhere that some dab of noalox on connections. Figured it must be a conduit too. Scratch that
You're right. It took some work but I got the SB spring in after cleaning the base out good with alcohol. Lightly scuffed the top of the spring. And my 20 is kickin ash!
Thanks again crxess. I'll give it a couple days to make sure it stays consistent and then try a Sub ohm on it. And in the meantime I have the old switch to tear apart.
Anybody know if that lock ring is there to stabilize the button or just to lock? I'd like to get it out of the way
Does anyone have any experience with the new Sigelei #32 telescoping mod? I just bought one and I'm a little worried now that I've seen some of the comments on some of the other mods...anyone have one? Know someone that has one? Experiences?
Thanks,
Kathi
Thanks,
Kathi
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