Sigelei Mechnical Mods

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Lhartman89

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I just thought about it and I think we could just cut the top cap at the threads that go into the top of the mod and make our own "hybird" adapter. It looks easy enough. I bet that is how he came up with the idea to make them. I am just worried about a short as said before due to the neg outside part of the 510 from the rba touching the pos pin on the battery. I wish we could get spare parts for our sigelei's as a few others have said before. I bet a spare top cap would be like $5-$10.
 
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Widowmaker_

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CharTek

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W-t-f is a cheerbrid lol :confused:

7YsF5On.jpg


Cheebrid. its a CCTS with an extension tube, AGA-t+ and AGA-t top deck. again, i apologize for the potato quality pic
 

Lhartman89

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I've heard that these clones have threaded tops and ones with stainless drip tips have glass tanks.
https://www.fasttech.com/product/1330501 .
If they have the same threads as the Sigeleis we can call them Cheapbrids.


I didn't know they had the larger Cobra/DID clone. I thought they just had the DID mini clone. Thanks for posting that link. I might have to get a few. I would rather get some RSST at co-op price but it doesn't look like anyone is going to host another RSST co-op anytime soon.
 

CountSmackula

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This one is often called the Chobra (vaguely a like Cobra):
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1...bra-electronic-cigarette-round-mouth-atomizer

This one is often called the Chid (similar to a Mini-DID, but actually closer in size to the Temon):
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1...bra-electronic-cigarette-round-mouth-atomizer

Both of 'em are CRAP compared to the real deal: chromed brass instead of stainless steel, very small wick holes <2mm, screw-on top caps that don't align with the wick holes. But... with that in mind, they can be set up to vape very well using good quality mesh & wire (not the junk that comes with 'em). I still have 4 Chobras & 4 Chids. I use the Chids on my eGo Twists set up @ ~2Ω. I don't use them much any more. The Chobras on the other hand, get daily use on my MVP. Also rotated through on a couple of my mechs.

edit: fixed bad link
 
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Lhartman89

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Both of your links are the same. The mini DID is 2.5ml and the cobra is 3.5ml. I have the mini DID's as I didn't know Fasttech had the lager cobra.

I have 3 of the mini DID's but don't really care for them. I have mostly been using my 2 RSST's and 1 of my 2 AGA-T+'s. I would like to get some of the Cobra clones since they are bigger. They should be easy to drill the wick hole out. I drilled my mini DID's out to 1/8" but really wish I would have gone to 7/64" as I have 6 7/64" ceramic wicks I can't use in anything unless I drill the holes out on my T+'s. I didn't have a 7/64" bit when I did the mini DID clones otherwise I would have done that. I still have 3 1/8" wicks left and 2 DID clones to build so that will leave me with 1 1/8" wick left as a spare. I'm still using my 3/32" ceramics in my T+'s until they break. I'll probably pick up more 1/8" wicks when DV gets them in stock again just to have extras. I haven't broke any of the 1/8" wicks since I got them and I have dropped and knocked over my mods with them in the RBA's and none have broke (knock on wood). Lol

Does anyone know how to get the firing pin/ plastic bushing on the #20? I tried and messed up the end of the firing pin the button goes on trying. I even tried heating the control head to help get it out and nothing....... I just gave up and put it back together for now.
 
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manji1

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Ok so this is a two part post, first the good. I hand sanded my top cap nice and flat thanks to the tips from gdeal earlier in this thread. It turned out great and it is buttery smooth. Here is the result
photo (5).jpg
Ok, so now the bad. This is the dumbest thing I have done in a while and I do my fair share of dumb things. I decided it would look nice if I torched the ring between the locking ring and the main tube. I noticed the delrin in there but I figured it would be fine as long as I torched it nice and slow...:facepalm: Yea that was a terrible idea. So now my switch won't function anymore because, surprise metal conducts heat very well. Anyone have an idea for a fix to remove or replace the delrin? What I have in there is completely shot. It warped upwards and won't house the switch or retract the button. Oh man, what a bummer.
photo (6).jpg
 

techmatlock

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Can someone post a more detailed description disassembling the firing pin on the #8 (preferably pictures)? I tried applying pressure to the pin inside the tube, while I twisted the button on the outside, but that didn't work. While twisting the top, it doesn't feel like anything is unthreading or separating, its just a never ending twist. Then, I tried heating up the assembly with a lighter to see if it would loosen the bonds a little - nope. This is going to drive me crazy, haha. Much appreciated if anyone is willing to post a tutorial.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
 

Widowmaker_

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It's like most of these Chinese knock-offs, with a little work it's half decent stuff for the price. Here's their newest one that suposedly has a glass tank. $11.86 Cobra Electronic Cigarette Round Mouth Atomizer at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

This one is often called the Chobra (vaguely a like Cobra):
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1...bra-electronic-cigarette-round-mouth-atomizer

This one is often called the Chid (similar to a Mini-DID, but actually closer in size to the Temon):
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1...bra-electronic-cigarette-round-mouth-atomizer

Both of 'em are CRAP compared to the real deal: chromed brass instead of stainless steel, very small wick holes <2mm, screw-on top caps that don't align with the wick holes. But... with that in mind, they can be set up to vape very well using good quality mesh & wire (not the junk that comes with 'em). I still have 4 Chobras & 4 Chids. I use the Chids on my eGo Twists set up @ ~2Ω. I don't use them much any more. The Chobras on the other hand, get daily use on my MVP. Also rotated through on a couple of my mechs.

edit: fixed bad link
 
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techmatlock

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Is anyone in close contact with the Sigelei manufacturer? I mean anyone can contact them, but there may be people's feedback/suggestions they take into consideration more. It would be awesome to have the next generation of their popular Sigelei's come stock with unfinished brass as well as slightly redesigned contacts. Even if it means a few more dollars, which it shouldn't since it's one less step for them. The mods coming with the Sigelei logo I'm assuming are a newer batch, but other than the logo, there's no changes? It's a solid mod for the price, just a few out-of-the-box upgrades would be nice.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
 

NGAHaze

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It's like most of these Chinese knock-offs, with a little work it's half decent stuff for the price. Here's their newest one that suposedly has a glass tank. $11.86 Cobra Electronic Cigarette Round Mouth Atomizer at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

Hmm, where did you hear it had a glass tank? The descriptions shows as follows:

Material Polycarbonate + Stainless Steel

I want one with a glass tank ... I tried the DID clone from there and it worked but only briefly; tank cracked before I got 3 tankfuls through it. :( I didn't have anything even remotely caustic in it either, it's just really thin plastic.
 

-brandon-

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Can someone post a more detailed description disassembling the firing pin on the #8 (preferably pictures)? I tried applying pressure to the pin inside the tube, while I twisted the button on the outside, but that didn't work. While twisting the top, it doesn't feel like anything is unthreading or separating, its just a never ending twist. Then, I tried heating up the assembly with a lighter to see if it would loosen the bonds a little - nope. This is going to drive me crazy, haha. Much appreciated if anyone is willing to post a tutorial.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
Not sure if you already figured it out but, to disassemble the button on the #8 hold the pin inside the tube and turn the button. I use needle nose for the pin and standard pliers on the button, both wrapped in duct tape to protect the metal. They put some red loctite on the threads so it requires some force to break free. The pin is plated brass BTW.
 
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