Sigelei Mechnical Mods

[CountSmackula]

While researching this specific mod, I just ran across this same pic on Google images and it certainly does look a bit questionable. If that spring gets jammed in the contact position it will certainly fry something. Anything you guys can input to dispel this belief would be appreciated as I really would like to get this mod.

"Somewhat a deathtrap" is WAY overstating & misrepresenting things. The spring, in it's original configuration, doesn't look anything like that mangled bit of wire in the photo. With the exception of installing a hot spring, mine's been kicking ... & taking names right out of the box. Sure, it'd be nice to have an adjustable atomizer center pin, and a flush 510 connector as stock, but for what I paid vs. how it performs - it's the shiite!

 

[forg1vn]

Polished up parts of the 19 and 13
Shaved the top of the 19 some

 

[CountSmackula]

Based on a couple of the description pics it looks like the V2 is bare brass on the inside of the bottom cap and comes with a 510 to Ego adaptor. I always liked the look of the #20. How is the switch holding up for you guys that have a #20? Sigelei Mech Mod 20 v2

The photo is misleading because of the light. The bottom cap is all SS & the spring is brass.

 

[crxess]

Thing is that spring in the pin has been stretched, its actually wound tight, this is actual spring in its natural state

That or he lost the spring and fashioned a replacement(POORLY)

SWITCH mod IDEA:

Looks to me like an Allen head screw of proper length could be Tapped into the top to replace the center pin.
Matched Diameter to the bottom pin and a reasonable GAP allowed
Firing pin contacts upper/lower pins to Fire
Allen adjustment to fine tune for center contact Variances.
Loose Delron Washer and install 510 from bottom before assembling head.

Flush 510 and adjustable pin

Wish I had a spare head to try this out

 

[whit77]

crxess you got me thinking now, very good ideas indeed mate

 

[whit77]

Hmmm

 

[Bobee]

Ok so heres a problem I'm having I fixed my hot button issue completely, but every time I loctite the button assembly back onto my number 8 it won't fire. I remove it from the body and leave it unsecured but still mounted on the mod and it fires. What am I doing wrong...I've been trying to fix this issue for almost an hour. Once my button is mounted back properly my #8 will be completely done...It's possible I guess that when I am loctiting it back in place that it may be tilting at a weird angle and not completing the circuit? Suggestions ?

 

[clancy0below]

or the glue is creating a seal over the metal? Not allowing the current to go through the switch and up the body of the mod.

 

[Bobee]

Maybe I can try mounting it with teflon, but I'm not sure really.....

 

[clancy0below]

Maybe one of you professional people could shine in on how to re glue the button. I'mtalking outta my .... here with speculation. I personally have never taken my button off.

 

[Bobee]

I practially had to my button was getting ......edly hot at low ohms it fires like a champ now, except for when I mount it with loctite.

 

[clancy0below]

Okay so theoretically if there was only a tiny spot where the body contacted the switch, all of the power is forced though. As if it was a tiny gauged wire, which would cause it to heat on the button.
Now with re gluing it back, if the glue covers all the switch... no connection. If it does cover enough of the switch, then it will be lose and possible fall off in your pocket. So If it were my mod. I would try gluing the bottom 3/4th of the switch. So gravity does cause the glue to seep onto the clean switch area. also holding it in place while drying to ensure switch to body contact.

 

[Bobee]

Well while I fiddle with this button here's a short video of everything I've done to my #8. Hopefully my editing skills get better in the future, first time ever lol. Again much thanks to everyone in the thread, Winchel and Rader especially.

 

[peejoe]

for 1 month of waiting.. vapemail just arrive ..

#19 and #13

 

[crxess]

I practially had to my button was getting ......edly hot at low ohms it fires like a champ now, except for when I mount it with loctite.

I think I see where you are having issues. Watches the Video.
I like your Bluing work, however Torching metal creates a DEAD CONTACT reaction. i.e. hard for power to pass. If you heated the area of the threads, you need to find some way to clean them back up.
Next, even if you have to use a micro locking washer, or wave washer, the switch needs to be mounted and tightened CLEAN to the tube. That area of the Tube must also be clean of carbon from torching(sanded clean)

Also be aware the switch pin needs to be spotless as does the spring in the switch.

Power travel - Battery to base pin, Base pin to switch pin, switch pin to Spring and(Pin head to switch housing), Spring to inner switch housing, Switch housing to Tube
Tube to 510 connection, then coil, then Center pin, then battery +

Everything in that switch and in contact with it MUST be perfect Metal to metal - no nothing coating anything.

ETA - If push comes to shove, Find a tiny nut(thin) that fits the switch and secure inside the tube for added security and contact area.

 

[crxess]

Hmmm

Real, real close - Brass(furniture part?) would conduct better. Don't need case hardened in a mod.

 

[Bobee]

I think I see where you are having issues. Watches the Video.
I like your Bluing work, however Torching metal creates a DEAD CONTACT reaction. i.e. hard for power to pass. If you heated the area of the threads, you need to find some way to clean them back up.
Next, even if you have to use a micro locking washer, or wave washer, the switch needs to be mounted and tightened CLEAN to the tube. That area of the Tube must also be clean of carbon from torching(sanded clean)

Also be aware the switch pin needs to be spotless as does the spring in the switch.

Power travel - Battery to base pin, Base pin to switch pin, switch pin to Spring and(Pin head to switch housing), Spring to inner switch housing, Switch housing to Tube
Tube to 510 connection, then coil, then Center pin, then battery +

Everything in that switch and in contact with it MUST be perfect Metal to metal - no nothing coating anything.

ETA - If push comes to shove, Find a tiny nut(thin) that fits the switch and secure inside the tube for added security and contact area.

Thank you for this I just right before I saw your post started sanding and cleaning everything in the button assembly, going to clean everything now I guess. It's firing alot easier now, but it's still bleh. I hope that I can get this issue fixed, I absolutely love everything I've done and hope I don't have to trash it.

 

[crxess]

Thank you for this I just right before I saw your post started sanding and cleaning everything in the button assembly, going to clean everything now I guess. It's firing alot easier now, but it's still bleh. I hope that I can get this issue fixed, I absolutely love everything I've done and hope I don't have to trash it.

As long as you get ALL connection points Clean you should be Fine. Remember, this includes Tube to head threading.

 

[Bobee]

Cleaned off everything extremely well with steel wool. Sanded down under on the outside and inside where the button assembly sits. It fires perfectly everytime now, BUT now the button is once again getting fairly warm. I'm not going to say hot, but close. This is highly annoying to me, and very frustrating. It blows like a freight chain, but the button.....><

 

[Widowmaker_]

Don't use loctite or glue on the threads when you re-install the switch housing into the tube, it's not conductive. After you clean the threads install the switch housing into the tube either clean threads or with a a little noalox type of anti-corrosion lube on the threads, it's conductive. Then tighten it into the tube as best you can without buggering up the switch housing, it get's nicked very easily. The current path goes from the switch pin through the switch housing through the threads to the tube body.... When I push the switch button down to fire I also push the button to the side a little to force the switch pin against the small hole it slides in to try to get better (tighter) contact between the switch pin and the switch housing..
.

Ok so heres a problem I'm having I fixed my hot button issue completely, but every time I loctite the button assembly back onto my number 8 it won't fire. I remove it from the body and leave it unsecured but still mounted on the mod and it fires. What am I doing wrong...I've been trying to fix this issue for almost an hour. Once my button is mounted back properly my #8 will be completely done...It's possible I guess that when I am loctiting it back in place that it may be tilting at a weird angle and not completing the circuit? Suggestions ?