I used a center punch to make a dimple, then used a Dremel w a tiny bit. I have found multiple air holes do not let in as much air as 1 of equal size. They do however produce more vapor.
Sigelei Mechnical Mods
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I used a center punch to make a dimple, then used a Dremel w a tiny bit. I have found multiple air holes do not let in as much air as 1 of equal size. They do however produce more vapor.
I screwed up and didn't use a punch, snapped the dremel bit and it wound up walking on the cap... lesson learned, great vape though
The whole assembly is loose unfortunately, the threads are stripped from taking it in and out. I just got back from home depot and lowes and couldn't find a nut or washer even small enough to begin to fit on the inside. I'm curious could I just put a little bit of solder on each side of the inside?
i've finally received my 1st mechanical mod... the sig20, anyways i've seen pictures on how to disassemble the control head, but it seems like im still having trouble with taking off the on & off switch... i cant seem to find any videos out there besides todds. would you folks be so kind so show me in the right direction! thx
No point removing the switch tbh, first thing to do is get a decent hot spring in the bottom
Its buried in this thread several times. But basically you remove the brass button (or stainless depending on which one you have) by prying it off carefully. Then grab the brass pin with pliers and pull like a mad man. Be careful not to let the pliers slip or you will bugger up the pin and the button wont go back.
The switch housing is simply pressed into the derlin housing. Good Luck!
The switch housing is simply pressed into the derlin housing. Good Luck!
No point removing the switch tbh, first thing to do is get a decent hot spring in the bottom
I agree, unless there is an issue it should work fine as is anonynoushaze.
I was able to gain 0.25v under load on my 20. On top of the gain from changing the spring.
I soldered the spring to the bottom pin, then sanded the top and bottom pin pads, as well as the inside of the spring and the outside of the top pin on the surface the spring makes contact.
Now I get 3.5v under load with a fresh AW IMR 18650 and 0.7 ohm coil in RSST. This is what I was getting on the 19 after a little modding.
* Edit.....the above can be done without completely disassembling the entire head. Just pull the bottom pin/spring out the bottom and then press the top pin out the top.
I soldered the spring to the bottom pin, then sanded the top and bottom pin pads, as well as the inside of the spring and the outside of the top pin on the surface the spring makes contact.
Now I get 3.5v under load with a fresh AW IMR 18650 and 0.7 ohm coil in RSST. This is what I was getting on the 19 after a little modding.
* Edit.....the above can be done without completely disassembling the entire head. Just pull the bottom pin/spring out the bottom and then press the top pin out the top.
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My 20 misfired, stupid button, and the spring that makes the circuit fried. anybody have a good mod for the button assembly and a way to connect the circuit without that spring?
anybody have a good mod for the button assembly and a way to connect the circuit without that spring?
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Yeah, soldering is probably your best option now. But on the plus side soldering it will give you an excellent electrical connection, I may eventually do that to mine but right now I'm working on electrically bypassing the spring, I want to keep a spring in there for safety to provide the battery physical protection against drops.
If it were me soldering it I would disassemble the switch, remove the chrome on the switch housing threads at the solder point, use a small clamp to hold the switch housing snug into the tube then solder it. Don't forget to clean out the small hole the switch pin slides before you re-assemble the switch and if you have some noalox apply some to the switch pin and inside the small hole it slides in, that area is an electrical contact point. Just a heads-up, I don't know how much soldering experience you have but make sure to use silver solder (better) or electronics solder, not plumbing solder.
If it were me soldering it I would disassemble the switch, remove the chrome on the switch housing threads at the solder point, use a small clamp to hold the switch housing snug into the tube then solder it. Don't forget to clean out the small hole the switch pin slides before you re-assemble the switch and if you have some noalox apply some to the switch pin and inside the small hole it slides in, that area is an electrical contact point. Just a heads-up, I don't know how much soldering experience you have but make sure to use silver solder (better) or electronics solder, not plumbing solder.
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My 20 misfired, stupid button, and the spring that makes the circuit fried.
I had this same problem today.
Here is an update for everyone waiting on their #19 from Exhale. This is how to get the other head along with the #19 and regular head for an additional $5. This is only for the people who ordered the #19 in the second batch and hasn't got their's yet.
Has anyone had success in removing the chrome plating from the top cap threads on the #8 and still be able to tighten the cap without it stripping? There's a lot of play in the threads out of the box.
No problems with this, but I haven't sanded down to brass on some of the parts that face the inside of the tube just for that reason. It was purely a cosmetic tactic for me, love that polished brass look.
After having disassembled the control head on the 20 I would not recommend it unless you're having a problem with it firing or you want to completely rebuild it with some better parts. That press fit button is fragile and fiddley. Have a little locktite handy or be ready for your button to pop off unexpectedly after you rebuild it. Also the way the bottom pin and the spring that connects the circuit to the 510 pin is ludicrous. If it misfires or shorts that spring will get toasted and you'll have to pull the battery quick or pop a coil etc. Badly designed, and now I need to make a trip to the hardware store... Oh well a project is a project On a better note it is pretty simple to get it flush on top though. Just unscrew the threaded 510 pop out the redundant derlin washer(it's all derlin underneath) and carefully snip off the 4 bits around the top. Then reassemble.
On a better note it is pretty simple to get it flush on top though. Just unscrew the threaded 510 pop out the redundant derlin washer(it's all derlin underneath) and carefully snip off the 4 bits around the top. Then reassemble.
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Got one coming today. Thanks for the heads up, head is always good, erm another.
You can delete the spring all together or what I did was replaced it with a gold plated spring from fast tech
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