Sigelei Mechnical Mods
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I used 800 grit. That should be enough to remove the chrome and not mess up the metal.
Edit: I actually used 400 grit.
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Thanks! Dry sandpaper for the internals? Do you sand the center post that the button contacts?
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Which one did you order? I followed the link & it looked like they were charging $5.70 per spring.
+$30 shipping to the UK.
Curse you, North Atlantic!
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Though I did find these people, with distribution offices in the UK. Looks promising if I can navigate through their catalogue (and they deal with small orders, of course... going to feel like a bit of a plonker phoning them up and asking if I can have 5...)
http://catalog.lesjoforsab.com/
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No problem, I used wet or dry 3m automotive sand paper but dry would work fine I'm sure. You should sand the firing pin, which is the end of the button on the inside, the neg post right below the spring and the pos post that is the flat head screw on the top cap and maybe even the tip of the screw that makes contact with the atty.
part of the smaller #3 club, mine had a little rust, anyone else seen rust on their Sigeleis?
Question: The end caps of the #8 are anodized aluminum, correct? Has anyone tried something like this...
How to Turn Anodized Aluminum to Clean Aluminum - Scrapping Trick - YouTube
How to Turn Anodized Aluminum to Clean Aluminum - Scrapping Trick - YouTube
was able to get my centerpin on the #13a to be a floating center pin. sorry if someone already posted a how to on this, but this thread is reaaaally long. Anyways what i did was take the circular rubber from a boge carto (the piece thats shaped kind of like a donut) and i shaved a few layers off the edges untill it fit snugly into the portion where the delrin fits on the top cap. I took the center pin out of the delrin spacer and i slid it into the hole on the rubber piece, then slid the whole thing into the center of the top cap, and voila! Perfectly adjusting centerpin.
Now im not sure if this will work for the 13b or any of the other telescopes, but when my 20 comes in i can post back. feel free to repost the info anywhere as needed, or anywhere else in the forum, cause i know itll be hard to find it later. Also, if someone already posted this, forgive me, as i have not read the whole thread, just thought id share for anyone who wishes it had the floating pin.
Now im not sure if this will work for the 13b or any of the other telescopes, but when my 20 comes in i can post back. feel free to repost the info anywhere as needed, or anywhere else in the forum, cause i know itll be hard to find it later. Also, if someone already posted this, forgive me, as i have not read the whole thread, just thought id share for anyone who wishes it had the floating pin.
I put some little computer motherboard screw washers on the inside of the switch to shorten the throw.
sanded top down flush with no air slots. Since I use an aga-t2 on it.
sanded all contacts to brass.
removed the bottom spring and replaced with a brass toilet bolt that I cut off and sanded down. (now this isnt the safest. if you get a short it wont shut off till you unscrew stuff.. so do this at your own risk)
You can actually tell a difference between the 8 and my natural(all contacts sanded) with same battery and atomizer. 8 hit harder. doesnt lose as much voltage at all. Not sure why but, you can sure tell.
Can you help me picture where you added the washers? A shorter throw sounds grreat, but I can't picture where you would add washers to the switch.
gimmie few minutes. Im at work, but ill see if I can get my phone to work and load it to my computer. (old stupid phone, smart phone coming in few days)
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