It is a 4/3 wrap of 28 gauge kanthal. It is metering at 1 ohm.
Sent from my SGH-T989 using Xparent BlueTapatalk 2
Cool, thanks for the info. 1.0 is right where I'd like to be.
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It is a 4/3 wrap of 28 gauge kanthal. It is metering at 1 ohm.
Sent from my SGH-T989 using Xparent BlueTapatalk 2
would anybody know if the Nzonic clone head would fit the sentinel mod ?
There are some links to Amazon Industrial & Scientific from last week (I think)....it was pretty recent.Got home from work tonight and put one of my protanks on my #8. I had a fresh AW IMR 18650 in the mod. I had been vaping for a few minutes when I got a horrible vape. I figured the coil was gone (it was), but my hot spring had collapsed in the number 8.
I put the battery in a Vamo and it worked fine, so it doesn't seem to be a battery issue. I suspect a short in the coil of the protank; it was a pretty fresh EVOD coil. I put a fresh coil in it and the tank is working on the Vamo.
What now? Anyone know where I can get a replacement hot spring?
There are some links to Amazon Industrial & Scientific from last week (I think)....it was pretty recent.
Here is one: www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/apv-discussion/399678-sigelei-mechnical-mods-182.html#post9673829
There were a few more, but I didn't search to find them all![]()
Hopefully someone who owns a #8 will chime in soon, then...maybe even someone who has replaced the spring...Yes, I've seen the links to those, but I don't know if anyone is sure that they are hot springs that will collapse if they need to collapse.
The #8 did exactly what it was supposed to do; the spring collapsed and broke the circuit. I never heard or felt anything, just a horrible vape that told me immediately that there was a problem.
View attachment 216893I was having issues with my switch. I was getting misfires and what not. I sanded down all the parts as described here and still was having issues.
I ordered this spring as someone recommened
Silver-Coated Beryllium Copper Compression Spring .228" OD x .036" Wire Size x 0.860" Free Length: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
I got it today, I had to cut it a little shorter with a pair of wire cutters.. and now my misfires seem to be gone! The spring seems to have helped a lot!
Pic of the spring installed.
How much heat is needed to break the Loctite on the button thread? I couldn't undo the button and didn't want to force it too much.
i know there are pix to take apart the sig20 control head. but im one of those less techy people out there. would anyone be so kind and direct me to a video for the process.
This is the same strip down for the #20 Todd posted in a earlier post but with pictures, thanks to Gary of celticvapes
Step 1: unscrew 510 connector and remove plastic washer![]()
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Step 2: ease off fire button and remove spring ,take note which way spring is sitting, you may need screwdriver either side of fire button to remove ,the little grey pin on the fire button is part of the lockable button feature![]()
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Step 3: take needle nose pliers and gently pull on fire button pin that is in control head to remove plastic housing![]()
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Step 4: take needle nose pliers and gently work out centre post and spring from bottom of control head![]()
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Step 5: lay control head with top side flat on surface and insert screwdriver into hole on base of control unit and gently tap remaining centre post out
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Step 6: turn control head over so top can be seen and take a flat headed screw and gently tap out remaining plastic housing![]()
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Step 7: rebuilding of control head is reversal of what has just been done Tip: build fire button assembly before refitting ,makes it easier to get fire button on fully and line up grey pin on fire button so that it is in the on position ,you will see the groove in plastic housing
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