Sigelei Mechnical Mods

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JBL-37

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Firstly soldering stainless steel tube is impossible with normal solder as the surface of ss will not bond with the solder and will repel it. Silver solder needs higher temp and may work but would still be extremely difficult. Secondly JB weld has a temp limit of around 500deg before it breaks down, so a pocket torch or chef torch would make quick work of it at over 1000deg. Heating the stainless tube to any of these temps, soldering or torching will discolor the surface and it will need sanding and repolishing. I did find this:
"Did this friend of yours use JB Weld or JB Quick? JB Quick disolves in acetone from my experience. I use it on all of my minis with no issue. Regular JB Weld, however, i have no experience with."on a car forum, might be the least destructive option. After you have the switch out clean off the chrome and heat up the brass threads and put a few tiny drops of solder onto them and spread the solder round the threads to tighten them up for when you later reinsert the switch. If you get to much solder on there use some copper wire heated with the iron or torch to pull the solder back off.

Soft solder will not work but silver should. I have seen several solder jobs on ss, not ideal but not impossible. Probably need a torch wifi you don't have a high watt iron station, you may need both actually.
Here is a FAQ sheet for jb weld. Funny thing is I have seen jb weld turn to a putty like substance in gas. But they state other wise... Maybe it was not fully cured?
You will have to sustain temps over 600 deg for extended amount of time to break it down (10+ minutes) then try to remove the part when hot... Not gonna be fun. The jb weld will be in a putty state while hot too.

Some type of conductive epoxy would be your best bet probably. Sand it down though for good contact and bonding.

Good news is they are cheap to replace. This is the best option actually lol...

Vaportekusa had them on sale, i think i bought the last two last night..

price was $32.99

with discount code ........ which is a 5% discount i got them for $33.92 each shipped.

bought 2

sigelei Mod #19b with "Nzonic Clone" Top Cap

"This is the Sigelei #19b constructed of solid stainless steel. It has a magnetic button and top cap is loaded with a hot spring!! This is the imporved version of the first #19 fully magnetic telescopic mod! We have vaped very briefly before we put up and we are blowing clouds of vapor!!"
View attachment 217839

View attachment 217840


Sigelei #19b - APV's and MOD's by VaporTek USA

Love vaportek lol.
I think they are still in stock, was when I checked. I have one on the way too from vv.
 
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villarino1k

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Soft solder will not work but silver should. I have seen several solder jobs on ss, not ideal but not impossible. Probably need a torch wifi you don't have a high watt iron station, you may need both actually.
Here is a FAQ sheet for jb weld. Funny thing is I have seen jb weld turn to a putty like substance in gas. But they state other wise... Maybe it was not fully cured?
You will have to sustain temps over 600 deg for extended amount of time to break it down (10+ minutes) then try to remove the part when hot... Not gonna be fun. The jb weld will be in a putty state while hot too.

Some type of conductive epoxy would be your best bet probably. Sand it down though for good contact and bonding.

Good news is they are cheap to replace. This is the best option actually lol...



Love vaportek lol.
I think they are still in stock, was when I checked. I have one on the way too from vv.

when you try and add to cart it says its all sold out :( know anywhere else with the same set up? i feel like this is the only place where they had the clone cap with the hot springs
 

JBL-37

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Ah my bad, venerablevaping will have them soon. I was on the site last week and saw they were in stock so ordered one before they were sold out. Apparently he just updated the descriptions and didn't change the quantity, they are still in route to them and should arrive in a week or two tops.
Btw Andy at vv is a top notch guy! Was online with me at 11 pm my time 2 am his time working this out with me.
 

villarino1k

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Ah my bad, venerablevaping will have them soon. I was on the site last week and saw they were in stock so ordered one before they were sold out. Apparently he just updated the descriptions and didn't change the quantity, they are still in route to them and should arrive in a week or two tops.
Btw Andy at vv is a top notch guy! Was online with me at 11 pm my time 2 am his time working this out with me.
Thanks bruh. Ill keep an eye out for em
 

NGAHaze

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I received an extra nzonic head for my 19 and decided to forgo the magnet and the delrin completely. I ended up making a floating pin for the new head and I gotta tell ya', I think it works much better. I've got a Phoenix V5 RDA on it and it will flat out make you dizzy! I'm definitely gonna have to cut back on the nic with this setup.
 

Mare1077

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I received an extra nzonic head for my 19 and decided to forgo the magnet and the delrin completely. I ended up making a floating pin for the new head and I gotta tell ya', I think it works much better. I've got a Phoenix V5 RDA on it and it will flat out make you dizzy! I'm definitely gonna have to cut back on the nic with this setup.

How did you make the floating pin setup? Pics would be wonderful!

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Xparent BlueTapatalk 2
 

NGAHaze

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How did you make the floating pin setup? Pics would be wonderful!

It was actually pretty easy. I found some tubing (think it was from one of those water bottles or a sprayer) that fit into the opening in the cap; minus the mag and delrin of course. I had some brass screws already so I found one that almost fit into the tubing I had inserted in the cap opening. It was a little too loose so I used some heat shrink on the screw which allowed it to move yet still have enough grip that it didn't fall out when there was nothing underneath it.

I then cut the head off the screw and cut the rest to size. I could have left it long enough that one size would have worked for both 18350 and 18650 bats but I wanted to keep the mod as compact as possible so I cut the first pin specifically for 18650 mode. I used the rest of the screw to make another pin to use in 18350 mode; it is a little longer of course.

However, if you have modded your switch to be adjustable as some have done, you can use that to add a little length and use a single pin for both modes. I should mention also that I made sure to file both ends of the pin so they were as flat as possible in order to get maximum contact with the bat and the atty.

I'll try to take some pics tomorrow ... couldn't find the darn camera atm. It's pretty simple and easy to do plus it eliminates that magnet and provides some adjustment for different devices.

Just for grins, I kinda tried that magnet deal on the bottom that had been suggested for turning it into a real magnetic switch but my approach didn't work for some reason. Supposedly you can just remove the top cap magnet, mount it in a nylon washer and insert it into the mod tube so it opposes the switch magnet. As I understood it, the nylon washer was only needed in order to provide side support so the magnet didn't move side to side. It seemed to me, if that was the case then why wouldn't a slightly larger diameter magnet achieve the same effect? Honestly when attached to the battery, I didn't see that even the smaller magnet would move much if at all anyway but I guess that could happen. Anyway, I had a magnet that fit the bill so I tried it but the mod wouldn't fire; took the magnet out and it fired no problem. So I don't know what the deal is there but I may play around with it some when I get a chance.
 
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crss

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    Parts sitting around.. nzonic head. The center pin has a magnet = junk to me. You might get the idea of a floating center pin from this picture. Cut brass rod to size, drop in head. install n vape. I just have no time to set this up.
    nz-c10ne_1.jpg
    brass rod is 1/8x6" found it at lowes.
     

    Asmotron

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    Well I'm pretty sure I'm suffering a brain hemorrhage now after cramming this entire thread into my head over the last two days!

    I have a #20 on the way from RichManVapors and I couldn't be more excited. This is my first mod of any kind, currently on a Volt 78mm battery. I don't have any batteries or a head yet for it, but still. Excitement. I think I'm going to deal with the gap for now, pick up a Vivi Nova or some other simple-ish tank (I've been contemplating Carto Tanks lately), then upgrade to an RSST.

    Someone had a nice list of batteries somewhere around page 180-190 but I'll be buggered if I can find it now. Anyone want to link me back to it?

    Also is anyone running a 2cent or... whatever the other one is... on their #20?

    I also have some ideas for switch redesign that may work well for an adjustable head, but I'll come back to that once I've played and have things setup. ;)
     

    Stoneface

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    Well I'm pretty sure I'm suffering a brain hemorrhage now after cramming this entire thread into my head over the last two days!

    I have a #20 on the way from RichManVapors and I couldn't be more excited. This is my first mod of any kind, currently on a Volt 78mm battery. I don't have any batteries or a head yet for it, but still. Excitement. I think I'm going to deal with the gap for now, pick up a Vivi Nova or some other simple-ish tank (I've been contemplating Carto Tanks lately), then upgrade to an RSST.

    Someone had a nice list of batteries somewhere around page 180-190 but I'll be buggered if I can find it now. Anyone want to link me back to it?

    Also is anyone running a 2cent or... whatever the other one is... on their #20?

    I also have some ideas for switch redesign that may work well for an adjustable head, but I'll come back to that once I've played and have things setup. ;)
    I recommend the RSST...skip the Vivi, IMO, but YMMV.
    Easy search: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...8-sigelei-mechnical-mods-185.html#post9679587
    Yes, using the 2cent fuse...hasn't blown yet :)
    Please share pics and explain your fixes, thanks very much!
     

    Bmays

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    You go Stoneface:2cool: My RSST (like many others) wont thread onto my #20 at all. I know its an easy fix with a thread chaser.

    I do have a somewhat silly question seeing as I don't have my #19 yet after about a month of waiting. Has anyone considered how easy the "Hot-Spring" in the top cap would be to replace in the event it collapsed? I am honestly hoping I get the magnet in my 19b head because it seems I may be able to work with that better:unsure:
     

    Stoneface

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    You go Stoneface:2cool: My RSST (like many others) wont thread onto my #20 at all. I know its an easy fix with a thread chaser.

    I do have a somewhat silly question seeing as I don't have my #19 yet after about a month of waiting. Has anyone considered how easy the "Hot-Spring" in the top cap would be to replace in the event it collapsed? I am honestly hoping I get the magnet in my 19b head because it seems I may be able to work with that better:unsure:
    Somehow, I lucked out with my RSSTs...all threads are good :D I'm a lucky dog...

    I've been wondering about the hot springs in the cap as well. I always assumed it was the weight of the battery that collapsed the softened metal of the spring, and was not sure how it would work to have one in the cap. That is one of (several) the reasons I use the 2cent fuse in the #13B with the switch set up on top of the mod. I post so many "village idiot" questions that I didn't want to post yet another...but I join you in asking this one...
     

    Widowmaker_

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    Has anyone confirmed that the 19 has a true hotspring in it? I doubt that Sigelei even knows what a hotspring is. The spring in mine is magnetic which means it's not even brass. To me it's just a steel spring with gold colored plating. I wouldn't depend on that spring for protection, use protected batteries or a 2cent fuse, kick, shortstop, etc. with unprotected batteries.
     
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