Sigelei Mechnical Mods
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Where are you guys finding these? Specifically the #8 and #13. I can't find the flat tops anywhere and they look awesome.
geek- what size screw and nut did you use? I love the idea so much, that I must do it. Did you just dremel the nut or TIA
I would recommend a flat head machine crew, available at you local home improvement store.
Pan head isnt going to have much contact surface on a flat battery.
I actually was looking for a flat head but my local home depot didn't carry them in the smallest size. I checked mine tho and there are four contact points which should be more than enough. It's vapin hard and everything internal is staying cool.Rader2146:9157429 said:
I would recommend a flat head machine crew, available at you local home improvement store.
Pan head isnt going to have much contact surface on a flat battery.
I think they said #6 got them in home depot its the smallest brass ones they carry. I'll check later and let u know for sure.clancy0below:9156286 said:
I threaded the nut onto a screw, loaded the screw onto a drill, spun it in reverse ( so it would stay at the screw head) used an old metal file I had lying around. Im sure there's a much better way to do this, but hey, that's what I had and it worked!
My #8 is working okay straight out of the box. aside from light cleaning of the contacts, I didn't really spend any time sanding them down. So far, voltage drop is pretty okay, and there is no misfiring. My button does need to be tighten every couple of tanks, but for the price, I'm okay w/ it.
My #13, well, it's a work in progress. If I press the button just right, it fires. And I've been pretty busy for the last couple of days, so it's just been sitting there.
I'm glad that everyone seem to modding the little issues sigelei QC created w/o any problems tho. The 13b does seem a lot better built than the OG 13..
My #13, well, it's a work in progress. If I press the button just right, it fires. And I've been pretty busy for the last couple of days, so it's just been sitting there.
I'm glad that everyone seem to modding the little issues sigelei QC created w/o any problems tho. The 13b does seem a lot better built than the OG 13..
This looks fantastic. Are you using power tools? Got any pics with the fire button?
Does anyone know if fixed tube works with a kick?
I had a telescopic and it definitely did not - ID was too big so I sold it.
After seeing the polishing job on #13a, I may have to revisit the fixed tube version if it can work with a kick.
Thanks in advance
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You are talking about the #8 right? You should be able to use a kick with an 18490 or 18500. But that is probably it.
Edit: Never mind, the kick fits loosely in the #8.
Pk, my s8's were ok out of the box, now they're awsome!! On par conductivity wise with the high end mods.... Thanks to u of course!pillowking:9158581 said:
#6 - 32
not sure what the numbers mean, But that's what the package says... Good luck and I'm sure there's got to be a "right way" to do this...
not sure what the numbers mean, But that's what the package says... Good luck and I'm sure there's got to be a "right way" to do this...
The #8 "no modification needed" spring delete mod:
I used a little Teflon tape to tighten up the threads a little, but it isnt required. Unscrew the post and fit it by trial and error. Do NOT over tighten as it will damage the battery. Adjust the post until the cap will screw in, contact the battery, and no more than an 1/8 turn more. I gained .2v by deleting the spring. Add that to the gains made by sanding the contacts and my total voltage drop is .14v with a .9ohm coil.
Switch throw mod:
I didn't like the long throw in the switch. I shortened it with 2 #4 size lock washers (Lowes didn't have small enough flat washers). I used pliers to flatten the lock washers and the slid them on the switch post and assembled the switch. Much shorter throw and much more solid feel to the switch.
I used a little Teflon tape to tighten up the threads a little, but it isnt required. Unscrew the post and fit it by trial and error. Do NOT over tighten as it will damage the battery. Adjust the post until the cap will screw in, contact the battery, and no more than an 1/8 turn more. I gained .2v by deleting the spring. Add that to the gains made by sanding the contacts and my total voltage drop is .14v with a .9ohm coil.
Switch throw mod:
I didn't like the long throw in the switch. I shortened it with 2 #4 size lock washers (Lowes didn't have small enough flat washers). I used pliers to flatten the lock washers and the slid them on the switch post and assembled the switch. Much shorter throw and much more solid feel to the switch.
Does anyone know what size screw will fit in the switch? I managed to lose mine while trying to sand the contacts.
Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2
Thanks for the tips. With sanded contacts, and your spring delete I get 3.8v with my aga-t2. Not the best numbers but it's a big improvement from 3.2v stock. The difference in vape quality is huge. I used two #3 washers for short throw mod and the button is very nice to use now
Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk 2
The #8 "no modification needed" spring delete mod:
I used a little Teflon tape to tighten up the threads a little, but it isnt required. Unscrew the post and fit it by trial and error. Do NOT over tighten as it will damage the battery. Adjust the post until the cap will screw in, contact the battery, and no more than an 1/8 turn more. I gained .2v by deleting the spring. Add that to the gains made by sanding the contacts and my total voltage drop is .14v with a .9ohm coil.
Switch throw mod:
I didn't like the long throw in the switch. I shortened it with 2 #4 size lock washers (Lowes didn't have small enough flat washers). I used pliers to flatten the lock washers and the slid them on the switch post and assembled the switch. Much shorter throw and much more solid feel to the switch.
Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk 2
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