Do you have the 13A with the metal button housing or the 13B with the plastic button housing? The 13B has this setup for the neg post.
Sigelei Mechnical Mods
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Do you have the 13A with the metal button housing or the 13B with the plastic button housing? The 13B has this setup for the neg post.
I'm noticing some misfires with my #8. Usually turning the button a little bit fixes it or pressing down on the fire button with a little bit of side pressure. I have lightly sanded both the button post and the negative post to reveal the brass and when I take it apart to see the button work it certainly appears to be making a good contact. I wonder if it isn't a bad contact patch between the button and the body itself?
Has anyone else encountered this and/or found a way to make it fire more consistently?
Thanks in advance!
Has anyone else encountered this and/or found a way to make it fire more consistently?
Thanks in advance!
How close is the button head to the locking ring when pressing the button down?
How close is the button head to the locking ring when pressing the button down?
If it is flush, try unscrewing the button a little from the post and see how that works. If that doesn't work, try unscrewing the bottom cap on the mod like 1/4 a turn and see if that helps. More than likely just unscrewing the button a little will fix it.
I'm afraid of loosening the button too much and loosing it!
I DID carefully apply a little noalox to as much of the pin as I could get to, both inside the tube and below the button head. Also got a bit into the threads underneath the safety lock and even some in the bottom of the spring well on the negative post (I'm using a ground down brass flat head screw inside the spring). That seemed to have helped considerably but instead of complete misfires I get a sort of partial misfire (probably a voltage drop) similar to turning down a VV mod a full volt or something. Think I'm on the right path though.
Hoping someone comes up with replacement button assemblies, negative posts (they screw in) and possibly an improved spring too.
I would loosen the button and see if that helps. If it does, apply some loctite to it to keep it in place. Use blue loctite as it is not permanent. I bet this is the problem. I had the same issue and that fixed it. Noalx isn't going to really improve anything. It will make the threads a little better and keep the brass from tarnishing, but it does not increase conductivity.
I haven't been having any problems with either my #8 or #13 since I adjusted the buttons and put some loctite on them.
I also did the washer mod to make the throw considerably shorter. The picture of the single button is the #13. The button in the picture with the two mods on the right is the #8 and is actually a shorter throw than shown now since I added another shim. I used airsoft gun gear shims that I had laying around. The last pic is the #13 with the washers I used. You can also see a gap between the button and the locking ring and that is about where it is at when I have the button fully pressed down.
EDIT: You can use the EA mod button but they are super expensive and probably not worth is.
I haven't been having any problems with either my #8 or #13 since I adjusted the buttons and put some loctite on them.
I also did the washer mod to make the throw considerably shorter. The picture of the single button is the #13. The button in the picture with the two mods on the right is the #8 and is actually a shorter throw than shown now since I added another shim. I used airsoft gun gear shims that I had laying around. The last pic is the #13 with the washers I used. You can also see a gap between the button and the locking ring and that is about where it is at when I have the button fully pressed down.
EDIT: You can use the EA mod button but they are super expensive and probably not worth is.
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I'm actually using a similar product called "Ox-gard" that does improve conductivity but it's attributes are more similar to Noalox than they are different. I think I'll use it like this a bit and see if it doesn't continue to improve. If not maybe I'll get into trying a few of your suggested switch mods but I sure wish I had a spare on hand before I tried them!
Looking at the #8 in further detail I wonder if anyone has found a brass screw to replace the 510 positive pin too?
Looking at the #8 in further detail I wonder if anyone has found a brass screw to replace the 510 positive pin too?
Still waiting on my sigelei's but was thinking about putting some silver paste on the button connections when I get it to improve connectivity ... Any thoughts? I plan on exposing as much of the brass as possible also but think this might help as well.
Your bottle neck is still going to be the conductivity of the brass, so it probably wont really provide any benefit.
Thanks, I'll probably still give it a try and report on before/after if any significant improvement is noticed
13a
You guys are lucky having brass for contacts, they skimped on the 13a, there's no brass to be seen after sanding.
I am not sure what replacement parts we got, but just the button post was brass after sanding. The neg post didn't show any brass when I sanded buy it still works great.
My guess is no, the #39 appears to be similar to the Empire Mod, and the k100 (i have this). in these mods the bottom switch assembly screws into the outside "grip" part, so it is an integral part of the mod. I have no idea about the quality of the #39 but my Kamry K100 is awesome! just wish it had a flat top rather than slanted...
here it is sanded down to reveal brass(or copper) and aluminum in 18350 mode with an Igo-L
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