I'll save the Canadian military humor and just say...that's not how we do it down here.
I think I meet your criteria (although uniformed service has nothing to do with identifying a bad idea), and I second Wit's sentiment.
Sigelei Mechnical Mods
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I'll save the Canadian military humor and just say...that's not how we do it down here.
I think I meet your criteria (although uniformed service has nothing to do with identifying a bad idea), and I second Wit's sentiment.
Sanded down the 510 connection flush. I left the slant in the top cap. Ive grown to like it. No plating so polishing took less than 5 minutes.
What did you do? Just dry sand?
Sanded down the 510 connection flush. I left the slant in the top cap. Ive grown to like it. No plating so polishing took less than 5 minutes.
Very nice! could you take a pic of the profile, I was thinking about having a ring made but not sure if theres enough clearance
For the 510 connection? I used a metal file until flush, then 100 grit dry, 220 grit wet, 600 grit wet, 1500 grit wet. Just to smooth it out and ready the cap for polish.
After the 510 is flush, 22mm attys look good on the small slant. If you want to remove the slant, I would continue to file with a coarser grade metal file, but I have small tool box with luttle to no other options at my disposal.
Those r wonderful jobs WNN! Out of ur artistic hands they look better than the $150-200s.
I meant for the body, how did you get the shine on it? Sand and polish or just wet sand? All of your refinishes turn out immaculate!
Thanks, this is my 32nd refinish. It gets quicker and easier every time.
Wet sand 600, 1000, 1500 and mothers polish. Just sand till you get a consistant finish then move up a grade.
Choice of grit is up to you. 200, 800 then 1500 or 400, 1000, then 2000. You can also go overboard and do 220 300 400 600 800 1000 1200 1500 1800 2000 2500 3000, but 3 or 4 grits is all you need for a quick finishing job.
Once you try it, you will know how easy and inexpensive it is as others in this forum can attest to.
Does this include the 20? This will be my first mech and im super excited!
Posted using the beast, the Samsung galaxy note 2
Use whatever you want, although I doubt you were cleaning devices meant to be inches from your face or in your mouth and I've never heard of gasoline being used in conjunction with electronics (avionics is after all a portmanteau of aviation and electronics). But when you start suggesting that vapers bring gasoline around for the simple matter of cleaning contacts that likely have nothing more on them than a bit of oxidation, you're suggesting a potentially dangerous practice that's unnecessary. New vapers need good advice, not military avionics cleaning procedures.
Your "firing a battery without a load" advice told me all I needed to know about your experience with these devices.
Sorry I missed your post. Im vaping on an igo now, but here you go. Natural light has vanished and with it my photo quality.
It will be a tiny ring if its possible with the 510 connector sanded. You have more space if you dont sand the 510 connector. About an extra 1mm to 1.5mm.
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WinchellNomNom, Is that the Sigelei model #19?
How is the button on that model?
In the other post, you stated sanding down the 510 connection and beveled edge for that flush appearance.
Is that all stainless steel?
How is the button on that model?
In the other post, you stated sanding down the 510 connection and beveled edge for that flush appearance.
Is that all stainless steel?
Did anyone else get the #13 from Vapor Tek this week? It's not hitting nearly as hard as the #8, although I did get the switch configured on the top which is cool. But the spring is made to completely cover the brass post that the switch contacts and the hits are WEAK. My multimeter is dead but this thing hits more like an ego or something at 3.4 volts. Yuck. I also really hate the plastic housing on the switch, seems that will be the first thing to break.
I'm waiting for mine. That's a 13b,if I had known thats what they where selling I wouldn't have bought it
Switch is good after modification, but you may like it stock minus the misfires.
I sanded down the 510 connector, not the bevel. The bevel is so short, it doesnt really look like a gap, but more like a dark accent. I like it
All stainless except for the battery contacts which are magnets and brass. I didnt like the magnets, but you may like them. I cant see many sub ohm vapers liking the magnets though.
So you have the 13b with the top/bottom switch from vaportek? Terrible switch in the 13b. The 13a has the same switch as the 8, but cant be used in top fire mode.
Not sure about your switch. Take a picture.
Unfortunately, the #13 version with the plastic switch housing and configurable for top button mode hits terribly and is about useless. My recent coop had to get Sigelei to send out new all metal switches with matching bottom caps. If you want to read the entire saga, http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-14-stainless-steel-telescopic-mod-co-op.html
Yeah, it's the 13b from what I can tell. Here's the crappy switch:
and here's the way the spring came installed, which I assumed was a mistake:
at first I switched the spring to this, but it will not fire this way:
Lol. So thats the version 2 13b switch. Instead of eliminating the the source of the problem (spring) they turned the spring into that. Yay sigelei! Looks 10 times more hazardous to me. Press switch hard and push spring into negative post...
Do you think that they brain storm ideas to make great products worse?
Hey, the #19 is hitting hard right now, lets put magnets in there! Next time it will be jello or a cotton coated switch.
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How does that even work? With the spring in constant contact and wrapped around the negative post, isn't the connection complete without the firing pin? Plus, it looks like it is even harder to have the spring and the negative post in vertical alignment for the firing touch to press against it evenly.
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