Sigelei Mechnical Mods

[Lhartman89]

Wow, I'm glad we didn't get the "upgraded" spring to fix out 13's lol. That is a horrible design and I think they should just scrap the 13B altogether. I really hope the 20 isn't a piece of crap and I hope they don't make the 19 worse.

How does that even work? With the spring in constant contact and wrapped around the negative post, isn't the connection complete without the firing pin? Plus, it looks like it is even harder to have the spring and the negative post in vertical alignment for the firing touch to press against it evenly.

The spring is floating between the neg post and the firing pin and when you press the pin it pushes the spring into the post....... Stupid fix if you ask me lol.

 

[durgidog]

How does that even work? With the spring in constant contact and wrapped around the negative post, isn't the connection complete without the firing pin? Plus, it looks like it is even harder to have the spring and the negative post in vertical alignment for the firing touch to press against it evenly.

There's a little ledge on the delrin insert that keeps the spring from sliding down far enough to touch the top of the negative post. The switch hits the part of the spring which is wider than the post, pushing it against the brass post to complete the connection. I sanded it with 220 and the spring is not brass. Maybe this pic will help explain what I mean, the switch makes contact where the arrow is:



Oh how I hate this mod. And I stupidly gave the chrome caps a brushed finish before even trying it out (cause I was enjoying the #8 so much), so now I can't return it. I hope I can get a replacement switch and endcap.

 

[durgidog]

The spring is floating between the neg post and the firing pin and when you press the pin it pushes the spring into the post....... Stupid fix if you ask me lol.

Yeah, that's what I was trying to say!

 

[WinchellNomNom]

How does that even work? With the spring in constant contact and wrapped around the negative post, isn't the connection complete without the firing pin? Plus, it looks like it is even harder to have the spring and the negative post in vertical alignment for the firing touch to press against it evenly.

If you look at the pic, the spring around the post isnt contacting the post. Its floating around the post. The switch would push the spring into the post.

 

[Lhartman89]

Yeah, that's what I was trying to say!

I would email Vaportek and tell them the problem and advise them to contact sigelei and see if they can send replacement parts or exchange the ones they have for 13A's. The first option would allow them to get some and send you a replacement so you have a usable mod. I know they are waiting on the 19's to come in so sigelei should be able to ship the replacement parts with that order so they don't have to lose out on shipping. That is the best advice I can give you. DO NOT mention anything about the co-op as that can potentially screw him for future co-op's.

 

[pillowking]

their qc dept can only be described as epic fail.

but those 19 after refinish look so well done that I really want more than the one I ordered..
hmm.

 

[StaircaseWit]

That is about the worst switch design I've seen.

 

[Stoneface]

I would still like to see a decent fix for the 13b switch (and no, the stepped spring doesn't count)...IMO it's a great idea for the top/bottom button versatility...

 

[Vaep]

Anyone know if they will make anymore #20's?

I love the ultra smallness and thumb button.

How often does Sigelie come out with a new major release? I want that 20!!

 

[calpis]

Holy shi... Sigelei is up to 62-ish now. The 40's and 50's are absent along with the majority of their earlier stuff. They also have a new revision to the #9 and it looks less like a miniature adult toy now (still not a huge fan of the button but it hits pretty good though).

 

[zippersnapper]

Without a doubt, the best contact cleaner on the market...



I use the Gold on all my high end audio gear..

 

[michliu]

There's a little ledge on the delrin insert that keeps the spring from sliding down far enough to touch the top of the negative post. The switch hits the part of the spring which is wider than the post, pushing it against the brass post to complete the connection. I sanded it with 220 and the spring is not brass. Maybe this pic will help explain what I mean, the switch makes contact where the arrow is:

View attachment 204231

Oh how I hate this mod. And I stupidly gave the chrome caps a brushed finish before even trying it out (cause I was enjoying the #8 so much), so now I can't return it. I hope I can get a replacement switch and endcap.

What you need to make it into a 13a is just a new negative post and the all metal switch, you don't need the entire bottom cap. It seems to me that the new spring on the 13b is even more prone to failure. If that spring base were to move by a fraction of a mm as you tighten up the mod and push the battery down, you have a runaway connection. You might suggest this potential danger to the vendor and have them bring this up with Sigelei. I believe that this dangerous possibility is why Sigelei sent my coop new switches, bottom cap, and negative posts; rather than complaints of a voltage drop.

 

[Lhartman89]

I guess Sigelei is now making an Adam clone.

View attachment 204389

http://www.sigelei.com/goods.php?id=109

It also looks like they are making a K100 clone. I know Kamry are also making a new K101.

http://www.sigelei.com/goods.php?id=107

 

[astrocity]

If that spring base were to move by a fraction of a mm as you tighten up the mod and push the battery down, you have a runaway connection. You might suggest this potential danger to the vendor and have them bring this up with Sigelei. I believe that this dangerous possibility is why Sigelei sent my coop new switches, bottom cap, and negative posts; rather than complaints of a voltage drop.

Though I've been following the Sigelei mech's, I'm curious how many retailers may have actually taken receipt of this model, and all of the unknowing people purchasing the 13 left somewhat "empty handed" - I mean, with 86 different models you wonder if your coop was the first real "production" run of that model....it about has to be, right? We are just NOW seeing other revisions to the mod, and without your feedback I doubt they would have been aware themselves. It's just wild to me. I have a #8 on the way and just about grabbed a #19, but glad I waited on it - though the #20 is tempting....it kind of appears that we are flipping a coin with these things sometimes....I guess I feel a little anxious knowing there could be people that are purchasing these and are not aware of the risks that some items may carry.

Anyone have any thoughts around that?


The Sig Empire looks like it could be promising with the elimination of the ribbing. The K101 looks pretty sweet too.

 

[StaircaseWit]

I have a #8 on the way and just about grabbed a #19, but glad I waited on it - though the #20 is tempting....it kind of appears that we are flipping a coin with these things sometimes....I guess I feel a little anxious knowing there could be people that are purchasing these and are not aware of the risks that some items may carry.

Anyone have any thoughts around that?

Seeing the breakdown of the #20 switch on ........'s, it looks like they just used a split positive post, with the button completing the contact. The problem is that the positive post is round, meaning the switch will at best make minimal contact with it to bridge the gap. It's a poor design for a top switch, although top switches aren't particularly easy to do like bottom switches.

Between that and the "magnetic" #19 switch, it looks like they're trying to clone mods without any real notion of how those mods work in the first place.

 

[Oktyabr]

Seeing the breakdown of the #20 switch on ........'s, it looks like they just used a split positive post, with the button completing the contact. The problem is that the positive post is round, meaning the switch will at best make minimal contact with it to bridge the gap. It's a poor design for a top switch, although top switches aren't particularly easy to do like bottom switches.

Between that and the "magnetic" #19 switch, it looks like they're trying to clone mods without any real notion of how those mods work in the first place.

I agree. They certainly are ambitious though! Looks like they want to rule the entire "budget" mech market. Competition of this scale and voracity has to be good for the entire market but I too wish they would slow down just a bit, hire some real vapers to help with the "clone" R&D and basically get their ducks in a row on this.

 

[astrocity]

Is this the image you are referencing? I'm curious to see the final version because this is obviously not the brass version, and they did mention this could be provided in Aluminum....weird.

 

[Oktyabr]

Is this the image you are referencing? I'm curious to see the final version because this is obviously not the brass version, and they did mention this could be provided in Aluminum....weird.

The only picture I've seen like that showed brass contacts and button. Of course it doesn't look like either have any kind of button lock on them...

Isn't aluminum a better conductor than brass? Hmmmm.....

 

[StaircaseWit]

Is this the image you are referencing? I'm curious to see the final version because this is obviously not the brass version, and they did mention this could be provided in Aluminum....weird.

That's the one. The voltage loss through that switch is probably going to be quite severe. The switch can only make so much contact with that thin split round post.

 

[anon0]

just popped a fresh aw imr 18360 into my brand new, unmodified #8, tossed a cisco 510 1.5ohm bridgless atomizer on top, and wow; thing hits like the dickens.

can't imagine how it'll perform after sanding the contacts...