Sigelei Mechnical Mods

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Oktyabr

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although with the way this thing's performing, i almost feel it's a waste of time, but just in case curiosity gets the best of me at some point..

can someone provide info on sanding the 8's contacts?

thanks

Just *lightly* sand the chrome off of the negative "cup" and off of the end of the firing pin. See the photos I posted just a little bit up.

If you need more detailed instructions start at the beginning of this thread. Pretty much everything you ever might want to know about "modding" a sigelei is already here.
 

inganeer

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OK masters of the sigelei pinky switch... let me try this one on you!

So yes, a bit of heat and the button unscrewed. I put two very small brass washers (flat washers) on the end and screwed it all back together. Very short throw, which I think I like. I tried it out, no fire! Tried turning the button, making sure the lock was screwed all the way down, still nothing. Tried loosening the bottom cap, just breaking it loose, and it fires fine then! Thought maybe the washers were still too big and getting caught on something... or something! Took it all back apart, examined everything very closely, couldn't find the problem. Put it all back together again and you might as well start reading again about three sentences back... you get the idea.

Finally, after a cat made me drop it and the spring and everything went flying I had a better chance to examine the inner workings. I actually squirted some conductive grease into the spring well of the switch and put it all back together. NOW it hits like a freight train, even better than it did before I tried to shorten the throw. But I'm still perplexed where the weak link might have been in my first attempt... is it the switch assembly? The spring inside the switch? How the switch assembly screws into the tube?

As a footnote: I really hope someone convinces Sigelei to let them stock spare parts (including flat top caps, etc.) for these...

Most off these switches are to loose in that the center pin that slides in and out of the collar (part that mounts to tube) don't make good contact. With that said the spring becomes the contact point for pin to collar. If said spring is small it can't carry the load from battery to ground. I have used shim stock to make a super thin bushing to take the play out of the pin and collar. Most of the switches I have done this too had .005 to .010 play in them. Made a huge difference.
 

Stoneface

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Most off these switches are to loose in that the center pin that slides in and out of the collar (part that mounts to tube) don't make good contact. With that said the spring becomes the contact point for pin to collar. If said spring is small it can't carry the load from battery to ground. I have used shim stock to make a super thin bushing to take the play out of the pin and collar. Most of the switches I have done this too had .005 to .010 play in them. Made a huge difference.
Where do you purchase shim stock?
 

Oktyabr

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Nice! My local hardware store has an interesting collection of brass, copper and aluminum stock in rod, tubes and sheets, for "hobby" applications I think the display said. I kind of wondered about slop in the pin myself when I first noticed that sometimes it would fire better if I applied pressure at a slight angle rather than straight down. I considered trying a short piece of copper tubing as a sleeve but really didn't want to mess with the switch assembly until either some replacements were available and/or someone figured out a better way to mod them. Maybe this will work!
 

gbojar

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Got my # 8 for under $35! And all of the 3 setups pictured can be had for under $50!!! This may be the nicest mechanical I have had to date, even better than (though not quite mechanical) my ProVape. It is rock solid, beautiful materials, looks great with Protank (BTW, the concave top helps reduce the airy draw!) and IGO-L. Check'em out! [Can't wait for my # 19 ordered 2-weeks ago]

kangelei.jpg seigolei.jpg ihyb350not.jpg
 

MatrixTech

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Recieved my 13A from Vaportek, Was hoping it would be the 13S and not have that press fit plastic piece instead of a locking washer..the pictures on the site didn't show the press fit plastic (realized after they prolly didn't know what version they were getting)....we'll see how it holds up..

-Has anyone had problems with the switch that has the plastic press fit insert? Thought I read somewhere it was a safety issue or something...

**Getting a 1.0 volt drop out of box...:closedeyes: Def gonna have to mod it...
 
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Stoneface

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Recieved my 13A from Vaportek, Was hoping it would be the 13B and not have that press fit plastic piece instead of a locking washer..the pictures on the site didn't show the press fit plastic (realized after they prolly didn't know what version they were getting)....we'll see how it holds up..
If it is a 13b, you can change the button to a top button...if you can get it to fire consistently. You can switch the pins in the caps, and put them on the other end of the tube. Might be worth a try.
 

Oktyabr

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Just watched a great video on the #19. Todd mods it at the end and it has given me some ideas what can be done with it. Maybe they will get the switch right on the newer ones and we wont have to worry about. Not getting my hopes up. Still pumped to get mine though.

SIGELEI #19 from vapegear.co.uk - YouTube

THAT was a great video! Thanks for sharing! Makes me want to run *back* down to the local hardware store and start digging through their brass and copper parts bins :D I can hardly wait to get my #19 too!
 

Oktyabr

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Posted my First Impressions of the KTS-GGTS (alongwith 12 pictures) HERE.
_________________________________________________
Ps.: I know this is not the thread for anything other than Sigelei.
But doing so to give a comparability. So, pls be soft with the brickbats.

Looks VERY good! I *almost* made one of these my first mech, then on the advice of others ended up with the Sig #8 instead. One thing I like about the CCTS is that at least Kamry will let vendors stock spare parts for it (I think Hoosier had replacement switches at one time, etc.) I'd feel a lot better about throwing more money at Sigelei if they let a couple vendors have a bunch of switches, end caps, delrin pieces, etc. too.

Looking forward to what your impression is over time, especially since you have the #8 as well to compare it to. :)
 

Strangebrew

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Hello again everyone! The wild hair stuck again...
View attachment 204904

Pulled the previous bushing out and quick fixed another with an upright spring... fires as well. The switch striker hits the lowest portion of the spring and requires more force than expected.

(I posted this in the wrong thread an hour ago.)
 
Recieved my 13A from Vaportek, Was hoping it would be the 13S and not have that press fit plastic piece instead of a locking washer..the pictures on the site didn't show the press fit plastic (realized after they prolly didn't know what version they were getting)....we'll see how it holds up..

-Has anyone had problems with the switch that has the plastic press fit insert? Thought I read somewhere it was a safety issue or something...

**Getting a 1.0 volt drop out of box...:closedeyes: Def gonna have to mod it...

You too huh, - i get 1.1 volt drop out the thing, but hey, Vaportek posted something about either replacement parts or updated version of the 13 we received (order mine form vaportek too.)
 
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forg1vn

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Just watched a great video on the #19. Todd mods it at the end and it has given me some ideas what can be done with it. Maybe they will get the switch right on the newer ones and we wont have to worry about. Not getting my hopes up. Still pumped to get mine though.

SIGELEI #19 from vapegear.co.uk - YouTube

A little different than what I'd do but still along similar lines, that's the beauty of these sigeleis =D
 

gbojar

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Just watched a great video on the #19. Todd mods it at the end and it has given me some ideas what can be done with it. Maybe they will get the switch right on the newer ones and we wont have to worry about. Not getting my hopes up. Still pumped to get mine though.

SIGELEI #19 from vapegear.co.uk - YouTube

What is wrong with the switch? Mine is on order right now :/
 

Lhartman89

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You too huh, - i get 1.1 volt drop out the thing, but hey, Vaportek posted something about either replacement parts or updated version of the 13 we received (order mine form vaportek too.)

I had emailed Vaportek about the problem with the #13B when they first listed them on their site and advised them of the problem. I guess they didn't listen as I never got an email back. It's good to hear that they are going to either get replacement parts or get the #13A hopefully. I would stay away from getting "updated" parts as it doesn't seem Sigelei understands what they need to do to make it work. I emailed them with an idea that they should have used in the first place but I don't know if they understand english or not. They need to do something like I did with a piece of metal under the spring to complete the circuit.

IMAG0867.jpgIMAG0868.jpg
 
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slatronic

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What is wrong with the switch? Mine is on order right now :/

I dont think there is anything necessarily wrong with the switch. Its just that most of us thought that it was going to be a magnetic switch actually and not just have magnets to hold the battery. Also when the preorders got delayed slightly there where guesses that it was because of the switches. Watching the video it looks like a really nice mod for the money and with a little ingenuity, can be made better.
 

Stoneface

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I had emailed Vaportek about the problem with the #13B when they first listed them on their site and advised them of the problem. I guess they didn't listen as I never got an email back. It's good to hear that they are going to either get replacement parts or get the #13A hopefully. I would stay away from getting "updated" parts as it doesn't seem Sigelei understands what they need to do to make it work. I emailed them with an idea that they should have used in the first place but I don't know if they understand english or not. They need to do something like I did with a piece of metal under the spring to complete the circuit...
I do think so far you have come up with the best solution. Do you know the ID/OD of the brass tubing off hand? I started looking for some square stock thinking it would make better contact with the button...
 
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