Sigelei Mechnical Mods
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I made the basic mods to my #9 (sanding contacts) but also took down the 510 connector as much as I could until I got bored taking it down with 220 grit sand paper. I also added a spare o-ring from my Term-C to the neg battery post to reduce the throw on the switch.
And now here's my 3P Party of 18350 Class drippers, Igo-L+Sig13b that class changed to Sig13a, Mini RDA clone+Sig9, Drawtube 2in1 hybrid dripper.
And now here's my 3P Party of 18350 Class drippers, Igo-L+Sig13b that class changed to Sig13a, Mini RDA clone+Sig9, Drawtube 2in1 hybrid dripper.
Todd's review of the #19 really bums me out. I don't mind replacing a firing pin or decreasing the throw with washers, but cutting screws and finding new springs is more than I have on hand. The delayed shipment to Exhale Vapors gives some hope that they are working on a fix, but if Sigelei's new spring fix to the #13 is any indication, what they come up with will be no better than the original. The fact that vendors are still shipping the #13 with a new spring that doesn't improve anything and is potentially just as dangerous shows they don't care if you receive a mod that drops voltage and misfires enough to be useless to the average vaper. I don't want to receive a #19 like Todd's, but my confidence in Sigelei coming up with a fix that works is pretty low. Cancel pre-order or take a chance, cancel pre-order or take a chance . . . ?
It would be nice if they just removed the magnets all together or actually make the magnetic switch the correct way. I would rather have no magnets at all and a softer spring in the button. If they don't fix the spring, all we should have to do is cut a coil or two off the spring to make it softer. But I agree, I don't have much faith in Sigelei "fixing" the problems lol. I also mentioned the switch in the email I sent to Sigelei about making it the correct way or make it with no magnets. I also asked them what was wrong with the #20. Like I said, I don't know if I will get an email back as I got an auto reply that was in Chinese. I am guessing it was just an automated message telling me they are out of the office for the holiday but I don't know as I don't speak Chinese lol.
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I don't plan on cancelling my #19, it just gives me another excuse to go through the metric bins at Ace Hardware and play the little game I made for myself of "Don't drop the box with 200 tiny washers and screws on the floor".
I agree with you. The 19 looks great, but it performs pretty poorly stock. Its pretty sad that they would release a product in this state just to claim it is magnetic.
The copper spring is the easiest fix for 2 things.
1) The ease in which the button is pressed.
2) completing the circuit everytime the switch is pressed. 100% no misfires.
If you do plan on getting some spring, buy a few. Todd used a standard hot spring like the one found at altsmoke.
So basically you need a few washer or few orings along with a copper spring.
Also, you dont need to cut a screw. Just sand down the top insulator after popping out the magnet. See picture.
Here is the 19 with an 18350 inside. No rattle, no gap, original positive pin.
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in #19 can you pls. tell me what size of screw in the top and bottom pins? is it m4?
B4DJ1N64N:9403227 said:
I believe we had confirmation earlier in the thread that the flat top from #8 fits the #19
It was the #13 that was confirmed but the #8 should work aswell.
I agree with you. The 19 looks great, but it performs pretty poorly stock. Its pretty sad that they would release a product in this state just to claim it is magnetic.
The copper spring is the easiest fix for 2 things.
1) The ease in which the button is pressed.
2) completing the circuit everytime the switch is pressed. 100% no misfires.
If you do plan on getting some spring, buy a few. Todd used a standard hot spring like the one found at altsmoke.
So basically you need a few washer or few orings along with a copper spring.
Also, you dont need to cut a screw. Just sand down the top insulator after popping out the magnet. See picture.
Here is the 19 with an 18350 inside. No rattle, no gap, original positive pin.
ouch... that looks huge. a side by side with an #8 in 18350 would be nice, or at least a comment on the size difference.
TIA
After watching the video again, I see this. My experience with mechanicals is with the China GG and the Sigelei 8 and 13. In my very limited experience, sanding down the contacts gives a little improvement, but the largest voltage drops tend to occur to poorly designed switches: bad parts, contacts completing the circuit not flush, throws that are too long or too stiff. 80% of the problem of the #19 can probably be solved with either a new spring, or even cutting a coil off the stock spring and stretching the remaining to decrease the throw and the stiffness. This I can do. I'll be interested to see what others do for simple fixes. Heck, I started vaping with cartridges and blue foam, nothing can be worse than that. And at the price they are going for, I really can't afford not to buy one.
Yeah it took a some other people emailing about the issue to get a case built. Just like every company, if 1 email comes in about a 150 bulk order, its going to seem like a QA issue with one item, but if there is 75+ on the same problem the company realizes there is a problem and then tries to fix it and thats kinda what happened. John is normally fast when it comes to emails but even faster on facebook, that and its pretty much just him handling all that for now. im sorry it took so long for a resolution to come up, but eh he totally against us. And i think the replacement parts are exactly what you did, a solid cylinder for the negative post, and i think the metal button housing to get rid of the small ars spring in the bottom of the cap to make contact (lil joker gets hot) but thats assumption. either way, keep an eye on your email, he will send you an email once he gets the replacements, (either parts, or the upgraded mod)
I didn't buy one from Vaportek. I got it from a co-op and had mine in hand before he even ordered them. I was trying to give him a heads up with the problem and tried to advise him to buy the #13A.
That was the fix I tried but it didn't work as I couldn't get the top brass piece the same diameter as the lower part of the neg post. We ended up getting replacement parts form the #13A/#8 and now it works just like the #8. We got a new all metal switch, spring, and a new neg post/bottom cap. I am fine with not being able to use it in top button mode. It would be nice if Sigelei could get it right and I am sure they will eventually, but they need to actually test their products before releasing them.
They won't be able to remove the small spring under the plastic insulator in the bottom cap and use a metal switch housing unless they just do away with the top button configuration altogether. It has to be that way or else it would complete the circuit when you screw the cap on and cause a always on condition where the atomizer would not stop firing.
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Here is a paps beside the 19. I no longer have an 8 to compare to but the 8 is quite a bit taller than the paps also.
Paps is one of the smallest 18350 mods, and I can think 1 maybe 2 that is shorter off the top of my head, and only by a few mm.
Paps in 18650
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Can you measure the length? Or put it next to a Bic lighter? I can measure my #8 and #13. I also have a pic of them next to a Bic lighter in 18350 mode.
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