Sigelei Mechnical Mods

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crxess

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Not crazy about my #19 - getting a lot of misfires. When I screw down the locking ring, half the time I end up unscrewing the button.

Sometimes the button seems to even unscrew itself....? Do I need to put some loctite on there or what?

Watch the Todd review of the #19. pay special attention to the mods he did to get it performing top notch.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I4Mv77UANoo
 

xsphat

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Wow! Let us know how THAT goes? I'm hoping at least one vendor will stock spare parts for these things... I was thinking a cap off of a #8 would work too... maybe the same thing as the 13?

Will do, but I don't expect to get the vaportekusa order for at least 3-4 more weeks. The #19s haven't even shipped from China yet. By that time, something new might have come out and everyone will have forgotten about sigelei mechs altogether.
 

Oktyabr

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Will do, but I don't expect to get the vaportekusa order for at least 3-4 more weeks. The #19s haven't even shipped from China yet. By that time, something new might have come out and everyone will have forgotten about sigelei mechs altogether.

Possible... but I think unlikely. :) 3-4 weeks isn't that long. I'll email them myself too and inquire about spare parts for sigeleis... not one or two, but an inventory.
 

xsphat

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Possible... but I think unlikely. :) 3-4 weeks isn't that long. I'll email them myself too and inquire about spare parts for sigeleis... not one or two, but an inventory.

you're right, it just seems like the second you FINALLY get something from China the entire world has changed. And BTW, I ordered the thing on 4.17, but it was a pre-order, which I'm guessing is a more official form of a co-op.
 

StaircaseWit

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Watch the Todd review of the #19. pay special attention to the mods he did to get it performing top notch.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I4Mv77UANoo

I just hated that after all his mods it still had that scritch noise every time he presses the button. I'd have to polish the internals to remove that. I was really surprised he didn't.
 

forg1vn

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Not crazy about my #19 - getting a lot of misfires. When I screw down the locking ring, half the time I end up unscrewing the button.

Sometimes the button seems to even unscrew itself....? Do I need to put some loctite on there or what?

Have you tried a good wash?
 

XfooYen

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I just hated that after all his mods it still had that scritch noise every time he presses the button. I'd have to polish the internals to remove that. I was really surprised he didn't.

Yeah, you gotta polish the button walls and the inside of the button housing to a mirror finish to get rid of the zipping. It's a major pet peeve when bottom buttons are machine finished. Even my shiny Chi_You had machine marks around the button walls and it drove me crazy. Details are everything and that's a mighty important one.
 

StaircaseWit

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Yeah, you gotta polish the button walls and the inside of the button housing to a mirror finish to get rid of the zipping. It's a major pet peeve when bottom buttons are machine finished. Even my shiny Chi_You had machine marks around the button walls and it drove me crazy. Details are everything and that's a mighty important one.

And with Todd's love of polishing, I thought sure he would.
 

StaircaseWit

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Oktyabr

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I want to know if anyone else is thinking of a way to reuse those magnets in an actual magnetic switch yet! The trick is to make the two pieces of the switch make contact *before* the magnets do, since it's near impossible to get them to touch in the first place. Recessing them or using delrin or even rubber o-rings as spacers might work....

Here is a vid I found on modding the magnetic switch in an Nzonic to provide for a longer throw. It's the seed that is growing in the back of my brain now on this Sig #19 ;)

N-Zonic DIY Switch Modification Guide - YouTube
 

Oktyabr

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Actually I see perhaps with the #19 it's better to use ring magnets and retain some sort of brass connecting post between the switch button and the battery contact. Does any one have one of these and a caliper that can tell us what some of the dimensions are inside that switch? Thread pitch would be awesome too, of course!

Thanks in advance!
 

StaircaseWit

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Actually I see perhaps with the #19 it's better to use ring magnets and retain some sort of brass connecting post between the switch button and the battery contact. Does any one have one of these and a caliper that can tell us what some of the dimensions are inside that switch? Thread pitch would be awesome too, of course!

Thanks in advance!

One of the big negatives with magnetic switches is that you have no control over the firmness of the switch action. With a spring-loaded switch, you can swap out a spring that's easier/harder to compress if the switch action is too tight/loose. With magnets, you're locked in to whatever you get, unless you have magnets of varying strength to try. I'm rarely happy with the spring strength on these chinese mods and have swapped springs a few times. Even my Greek-made Temon had a switch action that was too firm. A lighter spring easily fixed it.
 

XfooYen

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I want to know if anyone else is thinking of a way to reuse those magnets in an actual magnetic switch yet! The trick is to make the two pieces of the switch make contact *before* the magnets do, since it's near impossible to get them to touch in the first place. Recessing them or using delrin or even rubber o-rings as spacers might work....

Here is a vid I found on modding the magnetic switch in an Nzonic to provide for a longer throw. It's the seed that is growing in the back of my brain now on this Sig #19 ;)

N-Zonic DIY Switch Modification Guide - YouTube

Well, really you need to have the brass switch in contact with the battery at all times. This piece of brass must be insulated from the mod or it will be in an always-firing state. The magnet must be facing the bottom of the mod. The button part needs a matching magnet surrounded by brass which is not insulated so the current can travel through the mod. The button magnet must be in the opposite polarity as the switch magnet so they repel. The mechanics are easy but I don't know if it can be done in the #19 with existing parts. I'm getting one soon so it would be nice to see if it can be done without too much work.
 

XfooYen

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someone mentioned the EA button assembly would fit the sigelei's, does anyone know if the GG buttons will fit also?

I use an EA button in my #13 and it works great. The threading is standard 7 x 0.5mm. Find out what the threading is for the GG button. You could ask Imeo in the GG section of no one chimes in.

*Don't expect much. I'm on Tapatalk.*
 
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