You cant see very we'll from the photos but there is about 1.5mm of travel in the switch. Slightly less than what it had from the factory. I used the stock spring to recoil the switch.
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Sigelei Mechnical Mods
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You cant see very we'll from the photos but there is about 1.5mm of travel in the switch. Slightly less than what it had from the factory. I used the stock spring to recoil the switch.
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I can see why sigelei ditched the idea, getting a consistant contact between the two pins is just asking for trouble, I like the spring set up they did and tbh I wouldn't worry about the spring bending etc, the button pin only pushes on it by a very little amount
That is simply not true. 99% of all electronic switches simply contact two points to complete the circuit.
The switch is fully functional now that I have some of the bugs worked out. That was a major overhaul to the assembly.
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glad you sorted it and got it working, but surely if one if the pins moves any from constant pushing against it, or any play in the button pin, you'll be having the sucker apart again before you know it
i do own a roller. and I do have a #20 coming sometime [ hope, its a pre-order ]. so I cant say if the switch from my roller will fit yet. I can say that if the roller switch will fit. it may not be so easy to obtain as I beleave atmizone has always required you to regester your roller in order to order parts [ I had to months ago]. now the roller is great one of the nicest ive owned [IMO] and yes ive owned many. but its not perfect [what is] I had to sand to get seams to match and I think the button has a little to much wobble, I guess for the $170 I paid for my roller I excpected more. so im really not excpecting much at all from my #20 [whenever it does get here]. I don't usually comment just felt the need to [ sounds like an A.A. metting ]. just wanted everyone to know from what im hearing the #20 seems ok for the price. and wanted to mention its probably not going to be so easy to obtain a roller switch. so maybe modding whats there is best. good luck with your 20's everyone. and happy vapeing
I'm confused with this rational....Couldn't the same be said for the original design as well as the copied design of the roller?
BTW....Bmays nice work!
BTW....Bmays nice work!
glad you sorted it and got it working, but surely if one if the pins moves any from constant pushing against it, or any play in the button pin, you'll be having the sucker apart again before you know it
No not really as the current spring set up is more forgiving, where as the to 2 pin set up has got to be just right, you'd of though so anyway
Hmmm...I have got to take a closer look. Because I thought that the original 20, roller, and bmays modification all use two floating pins connected when the button was pushed. Original 20 with a horizontal rod, roller with a vertical rod, bmays with a larger diameter rod.
I was thinking it might help if the two pin were actually attached with a delrin spacer that engaged both pins. This wouldn't guarantee a true 90* angle with the connection part on the button, but should help keep the two pins from miss-aligning.
Tomorrow I should finally have mine to tear into.
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Have a look at the full tear down instructions with pictures I posted in this thread
Ok....Did my home work and I think I see what you are pointing me to. If you don't mind a quick explanation, would be great.
Here is what I got from the pic's.
- Bottom pin larger OD with hollow section
- Top pin smaller OD and solid
- There is a part I'm not sure where it goes indicated with a question mark.
Please splain how the connection is made. Because obviously the pins cant touch, but it looks like the top fits into the bottom.
Kinda lost at this point
This should help
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Ok....Did my home work and I think I see what you are pointing me to. If you don't mind a quick explanation, would be great.
Here is what I got from the pic's.
- Bottom pin larger OD with hollow section
- Top pin smaller OD and solid
- There is a part I'm not sure where it goes indicated with a question mark.
Please splain how the connection is made. Because obviously the pins cant touch, but it looks like the top fits into the bottom.
Kinda lost at this point
This should help
The red arrow is a spring that goes on the bottom pin
This is the same strip down for the #20 Todd posted in a earlier post but with pictures, thanks to Gary of celticvapes
Step 1: unscrew 510 connector and remove plastic washer
Step 2: ease off fire button and remove spring ,take note which way spring is sitting, you may need screwdriver either side of fire button to remove ,the little grey pin on the fire button is part of the lockable button feature
Step 3: take needle nose pliers and gently pull on fire button pin that is in control head to remove plastic housing
Step 4: take needle nose pliers and gently work out centre post and spring from bottom of control head
Step 5: lay control head with top side flat on surface and insert screwdriver into hole on base of control unit and gently tap remaining centre post out
Step 6: turn control head over so top can be seen and take a flat headed screw and gently tap out remaining plastic housing
Step 7: rebuilding of control head is reversal of what has just been done Tip: build fire button assembly before refitting ,makes it easier to get fire button on fully and line up grey pin on fire button so that it is in the on position ,you will see the groove in plastic housing
.................
The red arrow is a spring that goes on the bottom pin
Thanks! I knew I was missing something obvious.
Yes the potential is there To crook one or both of the pins from pressing My new button setup.
So Whitt77, you have a valid point. I actually considered filling the rear portion of the housing with hot melt glue To prevent any movement from the pins. I may still do that yet.
Keep the ideas coming folks, We will have quite a few better designs once everyone starts coming up with ideas
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So Whitt77, you have a valid point. I actually considered filling the rear portion of the housing with hot melt glue To prevent any movement from the pins. I may still do that yet.
Keep the ideas coming folks, We will have quite a few better designs once everyone starts coming up with ideas
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Me too...thanks everyone for figuring this outlol....I must admit I couldn't figure out what the issue was with the spring
I didn't realize that it was a spring in the teardown photos...
Is there anyone who is certain the switch replacement from atmizoo will work fine with the 20? I have heard it works, and then I have heard it will need to be modded... I just want to know what I am getting into before buying the setup. Thanks guys!
Just hovering over the buy it button on the #19, are they easy to mod for flush mount
I'll let you know when my 19 shows up... Slow mail lady is taking her sweet time...
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