Ok Guys. Tell me what I am doing wrong. I only shorten the throw with an o-ring and used the NR wire trick. This is on a AW IMR 18650 right off the charger at 4.16v on a .8 ohm coil.


Ok Guys. Tell me what I am doing wrong. I only shorten the throw with an o-ring and used the NR wire trick. This is on a AW IMR 18650 right off the charger at 4.16v on a .8 ohm coil.
So either my batteries really suck or your 19 is on rails.
I took and welded some 28g nickel leads on a 0.8ohm piece of 28g kanthal and hooked it directly up to fully charged AW IMR 18650 and got the exact same numbers. Even if you had a brand spanking new battery you would likely only pick up a couple of tenths I would think.
The 19 sounds like a pretty solid performer for $30
So folks, back to the question earlier. If you had a #19 or #20 in your cart but only had the funds for one. Which would it be? I ask because I have the #20 already, and a #19 coming. But the opportunity to get either at a real good price for a backup/spare. Undecided which to grab.
I'm not getting it either, brand new efest IMR 18350 direct to coil gets me 0.2 V drop. Is that #19 a superconductor?
.......ing magnets, how do they work...
In other words, there will be a voltage drop on the mod, resulting in a lower voltage on the atomizer resistor.
One obvious property of this simple circuit is that the lower the atomizer resistor, the higher the current. However, there’s a catch: Higher current translates into a higher voltage drop and higher losses on the in-series resistance that represents the mod.
^You're not understanding my post, and you're making the same point I am. Look back at gdeal's post, he's showing a 0.8 ohm under load on the device, with only a 0.19 V drop.
Either its not being measured across the load, or the #19 is a superconductor.
Please post pics and supplies used. I really want to get mine running tip top.The 19 is looking like a really nice device now that I have it in my hands. Tomorrow I'm gonna replace the NR mod with a copper plate, replace the spring, tap the bottom plate for a brass screw and close the 510 gap.
I'd definitely rather buy two of these, two rssts and enough mesh and wire for a year than spend the money on a single mech.
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another one
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topcap - the diference from original:
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