Sigelei Mechnical Mods

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techmatlock

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Careful with how you mod that negative post and the plastic insulator. More knowledgeable folks than me may chime in, but you need to insulate that negative post from touching any metal in the bottom cap or you will have the circuit completed without pressing the switch. I believe the #8 completes the circuit via the switch, with the switch pin touching the bottom post and the switch's metal on metal contact with the body.

That makes sense. Thank you.
 

gdeal

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I burnt my finger on the switch as well! What is up with that? Anyone know what would cause that? Mine came in the mail today right before I had to leave for work so I only had a minute to test it. When it fired correctly, it worked great. Unfortunately I had multiple misfires and either the button heated up or shocked me, I'm not sure which. All I know is that it hurt.

The stock spring (at least mine) did not sit completely flat on either side. Your hot spot is probably caused by having only a small contact point on the spring touching the button. I straighten both ends of the spring so it now sits flatter.

If you do the NR trick, make sure that you have the flattest part of the spring on the wire. When I re-assemble, I line the wire with the spring and only twist the magnet side to screw it in...this way the spring will not spin.

I have not had any hot-spots or misfire after doing this. (but probably just jinx myself for saying that)
 

slatronic

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Got it all together and its working great! Wrapped a 1 ohm coil with some stainless steel rope and loaded it up with some grants vanilla custard. Wonderful!!! Still want to do a little more work to make it a little better looking but I'm happy.:vapor:

1 quick question. Does anybody have a suggestion for posting pics? Do I just do it through the site or use something else? I guess thats 2 questions.
 

The Yeti

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The stock spring (at least mine) did not sit completely flat on either side. Your hot spot is probably caused by having only a small contact point on the spring touching the button. I straighten both ends of the spring so it now sits flatter.

If you do the NR trick, make sure that you have the flattest part of the spring on the wire. When I re-assemble, I line the wire with the spring and only twist the magnet side to screw it in...this way the spring will not spin.

I have not had any hot-spots or misfire after doing this. (but probably just jinx myself for saying that)

Just popped into my head - anyone try tin foil for this?

The old fashioned way, by hand. Sandpaper...60, 120, 320, 600. It was a nice workout.

Thanks, sounds like it would take awhile....how long did it take you?
 

manji1

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Just popped into my head - anyone try tin foil for this?
You mean for the NR wire trick, or for evening the spring contact? I wrapped my bottom coil of the switch spring in oxidized mesh for now to stop my button from burning me. It works ok but doesn't hit as hard now. Seriously someone has to have found a place to get a good replacement spring. Anyone, please help? This button spring issue is really getting me frustrated.
 

gdeal

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Just popped into my head - anyone try tin foil for this?

I was looking at this, but its a bit pricey....
Saint-Gobain Copper Foil Tape with Conductive Adhesive Backing, 0.0028" Thick, 1/2" Width, 18 Yard Roll: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Thanks, sounds like it would take awhile....how long did it take you?

Half-hour...just take the top 510k connector off, put the sandpaper on a flat surface, prepare to swirl it a couple thousand times. :)

No wonder I'm fat :D

Looks great BTW

I'll trade you ten twenty pounds for your lathe. Thanks.
 

slatronic

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Apr 8, 2013
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Well I took some pics and lets see what happens. Hopefully it works


I put a brass shim between the lock ring and the delrin in the switch. Its working so far.

Replaced the magnet in switch with a brass thumb screw. I had to turn it down a bit on the lathe but sanding it would work as well

I also replaced the top magnet and brass screw with another brass thumb screw

I turned down the top cap so its flush.

Here it is complete. I like it

Fingers crossed that my picture uploads work. If not I'm sorry and I'll keep trying
 

XfooYen

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No-Ox-Id looks like good stuff but is aimed more for anti-corosion in severe conditions over preserving maximum conductivity. Do you know what it's made of? I couldn't find what it's made of, just that it's black in color which means that it has little or no copper in it. Copr-Sheild is better for the contacts mech mods because it has better conductivity and we don't need the protection from severe conditions.

NoOxId has no metal dust in it but it's totally conductive. It's used in the radio industry for antenna connections as well as everywhere else that electrical continuity is paramount. It's not black. It only looks that way in the tub. It's the color of dark honey and about as viscous as Vaseline. I use it on all my mods, stereo connections, and network cables.

*Don't expect much. I'm on Tapatalk.*
 

bapgood

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Here is my take for a fix on the 19 switch (running with d9mel's idea, but instead a full round plate I just did a tab)

Piece of hot spring soldered to a brass tab, I cut down the original spring and it was to short. So I had this spring laying around that I cut down and is still long, but it's a much better feel than the original. I will probably try to find a wider spring to better support the button.







 
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