Careful with how you mod that negative post and the plastic insulator. More knowledgeable folks than me may chime in, but you need to insulate that negative post from touching any metal in the bottom cap or you will have the circuit completed without pressing the switch. I believe the #8 completes the circuit via the switch, with the switch pin touching the bottom post and the switch's metal on metal contact with the body.
I burnt my finger on the switch as well! What is up with that? Anyone know what would cause that? Mine came in the mail today right before I had to leave for work so I only had a minute to test it. When it fired correctly, it worked great. Unfortunately I had multiple misfires and either the button heated up or shocked me, I'm not sure which. All I know is that it hurt.
How'd you do it gdeal? Grinder or....?
The stock spring (at least mine) did not sit completely flat on either side. Your hot spot is probably caused by having only a small contact point on the spring touching the button. I straighten both ends of the spring so it now sits flatter.
If you do the NR trick, make sure that you have the flattest part of the spring on the wire. When I re-assemble, I line the wire with the spring and only twist the magnet side to screw it in...this way the spring will not spin.
I have not had any hot-spots or misfire after doing this. (but probably just jinx myself for saying that)
The old fashioned way, by hand. Sandpaper...60, 120, 320, 600. It was a nice workout.
You mean for the NR wire trick, or for evening the spring contact? I wrapped my bottom coil of the switch spring in oxidized mesh for now to stop my button from burning me. It works ok but doesn't hit as hard now. Seriously someone has to have found a place to get a good replacement spring. Anyone, please help? This button spring issue is really getting me frustrated.Just popped into my head - anyone try tin foil for this?
The old fashioned way, by hand. Sandpaper...60, 120, 320, 600. It was a nice workout.
Just popped into my head - anyone try tin foil for this?
Thanks, sounds like it would take awhile....how long did it take you?
No wonder I'm fat
Looks great BTW
No-Ox-Id looks like good stuff but is aimed more for anti-corosion in severe conditions over preserving maximum conductivity. Do you know what it's made of? I couldn't find what it's made of, just that it's black in color which means that it has little or no copper in it. Copr-Sheild is better for the contacts mech mods because it has better conductivity and we don't need the protection from severe conditions.
I cant believe I got it to work!!!![]()
Thanks Lhart.... I thought maybe it was just the juice getting distributed more efficiently.![]()