Sigelei Mechnical Mods

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manji1

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Vultures. Imma try fixing it myself, and use my own trash can if it comes to that. I have a fixes in mind.

Oops, didn't mean to offend you. I'm sure it will all work out. Good luck, you will find the info you are looking for in this thread. Replacing the spring in the switch with a good one will fix the hot button issue. I have extras
 
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Lavaca5

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Has anyone tried sanding down the 510 connection on the RSST to close the gap a bit on the Sig 20? It was mentioned a couple of times earlier in the thread, but did anyone actually do it? I know I can't get it flush without modding the center pin on the 20, but that is beyond my meager capabilities. I think I can handle taking some sandpaper to the RSST, but I don't want to bung it up and I don't want to mess with it if it can't be sanded down enough to make a difference. Any thoughts?
 

crxess

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My RSST fits pretty nice on the #20. I backed off the center screw, installed the Tank and then adjusted the screw to contact. Still not touching the 510 Brass so the issue is the center contact.
I may eventually disassemble and cut the pin down, but I have concerns that could cause a short. The Flat copper area looks to wide and may make contact with the outer(ground) casing of the 510 on the Tank. Don't need any excitement.:glare:
 

xsphat

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Oops, didn't mean to offend you. I'm sure it will all work out. Good luck, you will find the info you are looking for in this thread. Replacing the spring in the switch with a good one will fix the hot button issue. I have extras

No offence taken, its just hard to do sarcasm in short text, lol.
 

whit77

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My RSST fits pretty nice on the #20. I backed off the center screw, installed the Tank and then adjusted the screw to contact. Still not touching the 510 Brass so the issue is the center contact.
I may eventually disassemble and cut the pin down, but I have concerns that could cause a short. The Flat copper area looks to wide and may make contact with the outer(ground) casing of the 510 on the Tank. Don't need any excitement.:glare:



Remove the brass 510 thread with a screwdriver and a delrin washer should come out, you might have to tap it to get it to fall out

Turn it over and pull the bottom pin out with some pliers, then push the top pin out from the bottom through the hole where the bottom pin was with a small screwdriver or something

use a dremel and remove some of the delrin from around the top pin hole, effectively your counter sinking to allow for the top pin head, that's what I did but a proper counter sink bit in a drill will probably work, just don't over do it

Get the delrin washer and enlarge the hole big enough so the 510 of a atty will fit through it

Then just re assemble

That's pretty much it :)

No need to remove any material at all from the top pin itself

Don't hold me responsible if it goes wrong bud, that's just how I did it :)
 

in4mati0n11

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Does anybody else have their #20 switch stop working for no apparent reason? Twice now I pull the pins out top and bottom, put them back in and magic it works again.... ...??

I was so happy with my #20!! I gave you obsessive compulsives a ton of grief for tinkering and now my friends..... ole Inf11 is eating crow. :facepalm:
 

bapgood

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Thought some of you might find this interesting.

The same battery was used unless noted, the same RSST 0.7ohm 0.8mm ribbon kanthal was used on all test, the list in the order as tested. Volts are under load, read from the positive post and negative screw.

Battery is a high drain AW IMR 18650.
Sig 19 is stock, with both magnets in mod, only my fix for the bottom.
Sig 20 is stock except for swapping in a hot spring. (Looks like I need to look at this guy and see what is going on)
CCTS is stock, haven't changed or sanded a thing.

Sig 20 - 3.25v
Sig 19 - 3.5v (both magnets in place, just my other fix)
CCTS - 3.45v
Sig 20 - 3.25v (wondered if I misread the first time)
DNA20 - 3.9v (full MNKE 26650)
DNA20 - 3.9v (the same 18650 used in previous tests)

I can't wait to hook up the 6k 65c nano with a DNA :D
 
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aintdunn

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Any love for the Sigelei #9 ? I ordered one of these from a VaporJoes deal before I came across an awesome hookup from an ECF member on a #20.

The #20 will be my pride and Joy, but I am still happy and excited to get the #9. I think they will both be in the mailbox tomorrow. Does anyone have one of these? Words of advice, pics, whatever.

I can find tons of info on the 8, 13, 19 and 20 but why nothing on the 9? Was it a bad decision on my part?
 

bapgood

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Beyond showing the DNA20 can maintain regulation, I really don't get why you tossed it in there.
It is in no way a mechanical.

Because to my knowledge its the only electronic devise that can handle sub ohm coils, and with a full battery its basically just feeding the battery voltage but with a lot less vdrop.
 

DaggerStroke

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#19B looks like nzonic :)

637414862_793.jpg
 

Bmays

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Sig 20 - 3.25v
Sig 19 - 3.5v (both magnets in place, just my other fix)

I'm honestly shocked at the #20 reading. of course I have went nuts on my switch so I have no idea if its reading anything like that, I'll have to test mine.

I wonder if you put just a tiny dab of solder on the connection from the bottom pin in the switch and the switch spring to secure the spring and maintain good conductivity if that would help?

I plan on doing just that to my other #20 when it arrives. Just tossing out ideas.
 

Vapian

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Been picking up some of the S-mods lately. A couple have needed tweaking, and today I got to tackle the #19 ("a", I guess, doesn't look like that "b" pic).

Anywho, looking at the fixes so far and what I had after managing to get the switch apart, I took what I think is a slightly different approach that I do not recall seeing here before. If this has been posted before, please forgive me - it's becoming a long thread. :)

Using a couple pairs of pliers, I twisted the spring back against itself a bit at a time until the diameter was larger, and could be snuggly squeezed inside the body of the switch base (making contact with the sides all the way up to the Delrin insert). Then just put it all back together - the spring still makes good contact with the switch button when assembled.

This reverse-twisting seems to have the added effect of making the spring slightly shorter and/or just easier to compress.

Inserted in the switch body this way, the path is from battery Ground to center post, center post to switch button, button to spring, spring to switch base, switch base to body. No extra wires or tabs required.

Seems to work pretty well. Got rid of my intermittent firing and sparking/shocking I'd get once in awhile. Haven't bothered measuring for any additional drop, but it's hitting pretty well so not worried about the numbers. :)

Just thought I'd throw that out there in case it hasn't come up before. Seems a bit easier for someone who may not have a lot of other tools handy.
 
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