Sigelei Mechnical Mods
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Remove the brass 510 thread with a screwdriver and a delrin washer should come out, you might have to tap it to get it to fall out
Turn it over and pull the bottom pin out with some pliers, then push the top pin out from the bottom through the hole where the bottom pin was with a small screwdriver or something
use a dremel and remove some of the delrin from around the top pin hole, effectively your counter sinking to allow for the top pin head, that's what I did but a proper counter sink bit in a drill will probably work, just don't over do it
Get the delrin washer and enlarge the hole big enough so the 510 of a atty will fit through it
Then just re assemble
That's pretty much it
No need to remove any material at all from the top pin itself
Don't hold me responsible if it goes wrong bud, that's just how I did it
No worries - I enter at my own risk
. Thanks for the info, though. I thought I would have to disassemble the entire switch assembly and grind down the pins and such, and I wasn't prepared to go that far. I think I can manage a donut around the pin hole, though. And if I mess it up, at least I have a #8 on the way.
Oh no ... not another one. Even at these prices, I'm eventually gonna have to sell an organ or something to keep up.
Been picking up some of the S-mods lately. A couple have needed tweaking, and today I got to tackle the #19 ("a", I guess, doesn't look like that "b" pic).
Anywho, looking at the fixes so far and what I had after managing to get the switch apart, I took what I think is a slightly different approach that I do not recall seeing here before. If this has been posted before, please forgive me - it's becoming a long thread.
Using a couple pairs of pliers, I twisted the spring back against itself a bit at a time until the diameter was larger, and could be snuggly squeezed inside the body of the switch base (making contact with the sides all the way up to the Delrin insert). Then just put it all back together - the spring still makes good contact with the switch button when assembled.
This reverse-twisting seems to have the added effect of making the spring slightly shorter and/or just easier to compress.
Inserted in the switch body this way, the path is from battery Ground to center post, center post to switch button, button to spring, spring to switch base, switch base to body. No extra wires or tabs required.
Seems to work pretty well. Got rid of my intermittent firing and sparking/shocking I'd get once in awhile. Haven't bothered measuring for any additional drop, but it's hitting pretty well so not worried about the numbers.
Just thought I'd throw that out there in case it hasn't come up before. Seems a bit easier for someone who may not have a lot of other tools handy.
I think I get it but since I don't have mine yet I'd like to see a picture if you could snap a couple off. Need to store as much info as I can so when mine arrives I can get right to it. Thanks
Been picking up some of the S-mods lately. A couple have needed tweaking, and today I got to tackle the #19 ("a", I guess, doesn't look like that "b" pic).
Anywho, looking at the fixes so far and what I had after managing to get the switch apart, I took what I think is a slightly different approach that I do not recall seeing here before. If this has been posted before, please forgive me - it's becoming a long thread.
Using a couple pairs of pliers, I twisted the spring back against itself a bit at a time until the diameter was larger, and could be snuggly squeezed inside the body of the switch base (making contact with the sides all the way up to the Delrin insert). Then just put it all back together - the spring still makes good contact with the switch button when assembled.
This reverse-twisting seems to have the added effect of making the spring slightly shorter and/or just easier to compress.
Inserted in the switch body this way, the path is from battery Ground to center post, center post to switch button, button to spring, spring to switch base, switch base to body. No extra wires or tabs required.
Seems to work pretty well. Got rid of my intermittent firing and sparking/shocking I'd get once in awhile. Haven't bothered measuring for any additional drop, but it's hitting pretty well so not worried about the numbers.
Just thought I'd throw that out there in case it hasn't come up before. Seems a bit easier for someone who may not have a lot of other tools handy.
I did pretty much the same thing with mine except I used a spring I found at the local hardware store. It's identical to the factory one in every way, even compresses much the same, except that it's about 3/8" longer. Also I rewound the very top most winding because it was getting pinched in the gap between the delrin and the lock whenever I used it (the lock). With a normal sized coil on top that problem is eliminated. The middle coils are made large enough that if they were any larger it wouldn't even fit. Very good contact, for a steel spring anyway.
I posted this video many pages back in this thread once before. It shows how to mod the switch on the nzonic and is probably the best example I've found of how it actually works:
N-Zonic DIY Switch Modification Guide - YouTube
Here are some quickies for ya:
#19 Switch base, original spring (reverse-twist expanded), and modified MadVapes "big" battery spring (some of the top and bottom clipped off):
Original, embiggened spring installed in the switch base.
Note that the outside of the spring contacts the inside of the switch base all the way to the Delrin insert.
It was made larger by grabbing both ends with pliers and twist against the coil of the spring for a bit.
Size test, repeat until you just have to work to get it in there.
Modified MadVapes "big" battery spring installed in switch base.
Original bottom of spring coils to a small screw hole. Clipped that out, then clipped a bit at a time off the bottom until it could just be made to fit in the switch base.
Original top was too narrow for the switch center pin. Clipped it back so to the point where it barely sticks out of the bottom of the switch base before the button is installed. This still makes contact with the button when installed and reduces the throw resistance of this otherwise stiff spring.
I did find the stock spring reads about .6 ohms; this modified MadVapes spring only reads about .3 ohms. Not a big difference but it can be noticed.
Either spring works, but of the course the stock spring will be right there when your #19 comes in.
Hope this helps!
Well, they lost a customer. I just cancelled my pre-order for the #19. I got tired of waiting with no updates on shipping via their website or email and they haven't answered my email I sent them a few days ago.
I made some adjustments to my #19 and the misfires and hot button issues seem to be a thing of the past. Used an o-ring from an old, stupid looking plastic ming drip tip and the throw is now about 1mm. Too short, another thing to pick up when I go to the hardware store and buy a replacement brass center pin. Plus, my brother ground down the bottom magnet and cut a screwdriver slot in it for easy reworkings down the line. I also heated and compressed the spring a little, then sanded flat spots on both ends of the spring. A little lighter now and the connection is incredibly better. So in a short amount of time, I'm about 75% done with mods to this ... well ... mod.
And while I was at his house (he's the tool man in my fam), I drilled the airhole in my RSST to almost 3mm
And while I was at his house (he's the tool man in my fam), I drilled the airhole in my RSST to almost 3mm
#19B looks like nzonic
I just asked Abe from Exhale if he could get those instead of the regular 19 that the second batch is still waiting for and he said he would check into it but doesn't want to complicate things. I think everyone would be fine with getting the 19B instead but I guess I shouldn't speak for everyone.
#19B looks like nzonic
Oh wow cool. Do u have a link please? I cant find it on the sigelei site
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