Sigelei Mechnical Mods

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Rader2146

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I have my spring completely removed with a press fit brass nut and screw. I still get around a .4 drop on an aga t 1.3 ohm coil. fully charged panny cgh.

Might need to take a look at your atty too. My AGA-T2 is collecting dust because it was the source of much of the loss I was experiencing. The IGO-L (that I prefer over genny's anyway) does much better with the voltage drop.
 

Oktyabr

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Porksmuggler

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My brain asploded trying to figure out which way round the battery goes.

If anyone would be kind enough to help me out, here's the thread to do it in:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...witch-mechanicals-case-reversing-battery.html

:)

We went through it a bit many pages back, but I think it's probably easiest to just direct you here, as rolygate is spot on regardless of what might pop up in other threads. Short answer positive end towards the 510 connector.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/ecf-library/337497-warning-battery-reverse-polarity-apvs.html
 

Porksmuggler

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I have my spring completely removed with a press fit brass nut and screw. I still get around a .4 drop on an aga t 1.3 ohm coil. fully charged panny cgh.

That's exactly as expected, it would be in the 0.7 - 1.0 V range with it in (at 1.3 ohms). Expect 0.1 - 0.2 V on the topper (where you want the drop) and the remaining between the battery and smallest contact areas of the mod (where you don't want the drop).
 

generic mutant

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We went through it a bit many pages back, but I think it's probably easiest to just direct you here, as rolygate is spot on regardless of what might pop up in other threads. Short answer positive end towards the 510 connector.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/ecf-library/337497-warning-battery-reverse-polarity-apvs.html

That's what I thought, but now I'm not so sure.

If the positive points to the 510 on a mechanical with a bottom switch, then the body is positive even if the switch is open.

Surely if the switch is at the bottom, the positive should be at the bottom too.

(I've really confused myself... :) )
 

Porksmuggler

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That's what I thought, but now I'm not so sure.

If the positive points to the 510 on a mechanical with a bottom switch, then the body is positive even if the switch is open.

Surely if the switch is at the bottom, the positive should be at the bottom too.

(I've really confused myself... :) )

I'm 100% sure. EE/CE learn'n and 20+ yrs. of working with DC circuits. I'm happy to help, but I'm not sure specifically where the confusion is. Positive leg is defined as the part of the circuit before the load, that's positive end towards the 510.
 

generic mutant

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Thanks - I'm not trying to be argumentative, I just don't understand.

The way I'm thinking of it right now:

Positive at the top, battery loses its wrapper. You have a route from positive to the battery body through the atomiser, switch and hot spring have been bypassed.

Positive at the bottom, battery loses its wrapper. Route from positive to battery body goes through switch and hot spring.
 

crss

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    Has anyone got a pic of the #8 next to a #20 both in 18350 mode please :)

    With the BIC for ref... Just got the #8 today from AquaVapor, 23.96 in hand. LIKE!!!
     

    Porksmuggler

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    Thanks - I'm not trying to be argumentative, I just don't understand.

    The way I'm thinking of it right now:

    Positive at the top, battery loses its wrapper. You have a route from positive to the battery body through the atomiser, switch and hot spring have been bypassed.

    Positive at the bottom, battery loses its wrapper. Route from positive to battery body goes through switch and hot spring.

    Oh no, no argument, it's a common confusion, and the difference between electron flow theory and conventional current.
     

    Bobee

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    While I wait on my #8 to cool down, just got done torching it. I've done everything to it, sanded down the bottom and top cap along with various parts of the button including the firing pin, Spring removal, and working on the screw mod. It's pretty much done, pics at another time possibly.

    Suggestions on my next Sigelei? All I have is the #8. I want another one that you can work on just as much as the number 8. Thanks in advance. :)
     

    Porksmuggler

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    Also another question is the top part, the button head, of the firing pin brass as well? Been sanding to no avail. Will look pretty stupid on my torched mod with brass end pieces if not...

    nope, the button head's not brass. polish that sucker up, and maybe torch it too ;)
     
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