Silo DNA75C - Build

[gkenney]

Received my 75C enclosures from Modcrate yesterday and built my first color 75C. I love this thing. The machining is visible on the face but I happen to like that, so all it good. Everything on these enclosures is machined well and tolerances are good. The only thing I noticed was the lower board mount allows the board to be screwed down so the acutators do not click. I had to back the screw out a 1/4-1/2 turn so the buttons were not compressed. The acutators are a perfect fit and the predrilled atomizer connection is a perfect fit for the Varitube V2.

This enclosure uses magnets to hold the battery section to the main body. There are no stops milled on the inside lips of the sections. To keep the sections from sliding (even a little movement is too much for me) I recommend epoxying the magnets in one section fully embedded so there is a depression (either section is fine). When the epoxy has set, glue the other magnets in the other section. Before the glue sets in this section place the two halves together. The magnets will pull forward into the recessed holes created with the previous magnets. Warning - you need very little glue, too much and you will glue the two sections together. I use a toothpick with a small drop of epoxy on the end to swab the inside of the hole for the magnet. After placing the sections together and letting the glue set I was able to easily popped the two halves apart. The halves will not slide around at all.

I used Modcrate's 20700 sled they have on Shapeways and as can be seen from the photo I'm using Efest's 20700 30a 3000mah battery. Mooch gave this a great review and rated it a 30a continuous draw. I removed the stand-offs from the bottom of the sled and glued the sled in with epoxy. I wasn't clever enough to run the positive battery wire under the sled and still be able to pull the sections apart to change out the battery. I'm certain it can be done, I'm just not the guy that can do it.

Hope some of this helps someone and again, I really like this mod a lot. The 75C is a fantastic board when coupled with eScribe. I am able to tailor the vape to my liking. I also like being able to put up my own wallpaper. The Whirlpool galaxy is working for me.



Follow-on: Steamer861 recommended I sand the back of the actuators down so I can screw the board down tight for grounding instead of backing the lower screw out a 1/4-1/2 turn . . .good suggestion and I'll be doing that.

 

[Steamer861]

The only thing I noticed was the lower board mount allows the board to be screwed down so the acutators do not click.

Those board screws are grounding the board. Not having them as tight as posable isn't a good thing!
If the board push's the buttons to tight against the enclosure, they should have been sanded down.
And not the board screws loosened
I have seen problems come up many times before from poor grounding with this kind of enclosure

 

[gkenney]

That is a possibility . . . thanks . . . appreciate it.

 

[gkenney]

Okay, after sharing the build on Modcrate's Facebook page I found out why knuckle-dragging Neanderthals are not employed to build these mods (not saying I'm one but I won't argue the point too vigorously). I completely didn't get how the battery sled works with this mod. It is a beautiful piece of engineering beyond the likes of myself to fully appreciate until Elisha D Thomas politely stated how he used the sled.

I was like . . . huh? . . . then slowly the image began to form and I understood the reason for the standoffs, etc. It's really well thought out and I feel a bit foolish for not recognizing how it should be employed.

I took out the soldering iron, snips and began the process of doing it right. Some modification to the sled was required (something noted by Russell Cereola on his Shapeways page). I had to make room around the 510 threads and nut for the positive battery wire to pass through cleanly. Using the sled as its design intended, combined with the use of magnets to hold the case together, makes putting in a new battery a snap.

I must say, these mods are really well made. Oh, and I sanded down the pads on the back of the selector buttons and it works beautifully. Elisha used washers to create the separation but I like the sanding (or filing in my case). Not very much is required to be removed and everything is assembled according to design.

 

[mav2000]

Beautiful... Just amazing. Why can't mod makers make these type of simple mods.

 

[Steamer861]

Beautiful... Just amazing. Why can't mod makers make these type of simple mods.

HexNA 900 by Craving Vapor

 

[gkenney]

HexNA 900 by Craving Vapor

I bought the last one of these Evolv Reference mods Protovapor made using a DNA250 board. I also bought the last raw (bare aluminum, no anodizing) enclosure they had along with a 250DNA kit which included the Evolv 510 connector. I assembled the mod using a 900mah lipo. It's a great mod. I really like the 510 connector, though it is not as simple to assemble as the Varitube V2 it is a very rugged design that matches the design of the DNA 200 reference enclosure. You need snap ring pliers to assemble the Evolv connector.

BTW - these mods at Craving Vapor are in stock (red, blue and black) but they are the DNA200, if that matters to you.

The bare enclosure from Protovapor came threaded for the Evolv 510 connector and from appearance the enclosure was recessed deeper than the Modcrate DNA75C enclosures. Modcrate's current enclosures do not have the threading and they seem designed for a shallower depth connector base, the Evolv 510 is thick. It's quite likely the assembly of this enclosure from Protovapor, using the lipo, is the reason my mind refused to grasp the design having the 20700 battery facing out the back. You can ask why that would be and I won't be able to explain it (I'm grasping through vapor for an excuse).

Between the two designs, having built both, I believe the new DNA75C enclosure, with the sled from Shapeways, is an evolutionary step in the right direction. The easy, no tool, removal of the back cover for "snap out - snap in" battery replacement is nice. Admittedly, you're probably not going to need to change out the lipo frequently, so your mileage may vary on my design assessment. Also, the DNA75C is easier to navigate using the 3 button selector interface. Again, though, I find myself clicking the power actuator 5 times to access certain settings frequently . . . old habits die hard.

As an aside, my current DNA75C mod is reading higher ohms than the DNA250 I built. I've even used a grounding ring around the 510 on the DNA75C to see if I was not getting a good ground through the board mount. There was no change so I removed the ground wire and ring. My next step is to calibrate the case using eScribe. It's reading about .07 ohms higher using the same atomizer in a cold state.

The journey continues.

Update: It was a faulty Varitube V2 connector. I used a multimeter to read the base resistance of several mods through the 510 connectors. All gave consistent readings but this mod was having attention deficit issues. I put in another 510 connector and it's stable as granite. I can't really blame Varitube for this. I was monkey mashing this thing throughout the build . . . so I'll take the credit for its inability to perform as designed.

 

[mav2000]

HexNA 900 by Craving Vapor

Any available without lipo? Maybe an 18650 or 26650?

 

[cigatron]

Update: It was a faulty Varitube V2 connector.

I'm curious to know what failed on the VT510.

 

[Steamer861]

Any available without lipo? Maybe an 18650 or 26650?

You could all ways build your own! The Silo75c enclosure is still in stock at Modcrate, there is a link on the order page for the 3D printed parts you would need Some silicone wire a VT 510 & a DNA75c board ,would round out the parts needed. It's really not that hard & quite satisfying to know you made it your self

 

[gkenney]

I'm curious to know what failed on the VT510.

Okay!! Root cause analysis didn't enter the picture but now I'm intrigued as well.

I should be back in the work area later in the day. I'll pull the 510 out of the trash and you (or anyone else) can help me diagnose the issue. I would find the effort enjoyable. My sparky IQ quotient topped out using the multimeter to see it wasn't behaving like the other 510s.

Look for the posted image of the 510, it will be up today.

 

[cigatron]

Okay!! Root cause analysis didn't enter the picture but now I'm intrigued as well.

I should be back in the work area later in the day. I'll pull the 510 out of the trash and you (or anyone else) can help me diagnose the issue. I would find the effort enjoyable. My sparky IQ quotient topped out using the multimeter to see it wasn't behaving like the other 510s.

Look for the posted image of the 510, it will be up today.

Some initial thoughts, the 75C has been noted to have problems with reading res too low, not sure if the new 3.0 fw upgrade fixed that entirely. Your 510 issue was with reading res too high so I'm guessing your issue is not related to that.
I believe the spring in VT510's is not part of the current path, if so, that can be ruled out as well. A breach in the insulator would cause a low res reading so that can be ruled out as well. That leaves only two possible root causes imo ie insufficient upward pressure from the 510 pos pin or a bad wiring connection. With the former a sticky 510 pos pin due to insulator deformation or machining tolerance could be the culprit. For the latter a bad/cold solder joint on the 510 neg or pos connection, bad/cold solder joint on the board, loose hardware or an insufficient wire crimp on the ring lug if crimped instead of soldered.
Looking forward to viewing the pics and hearing your thoughts.

 

[gkenney]

Some initial thoughts, the 75C has been noted to to problems with reading res too low, not sure if the new 3.0 fw upgrade fixed that entirely. Your 510 issue was with reading res too high so I'm guessing your issue is not related to that.
I believe the spring in VT510's is not part of the current path, if so, that can be ruled out as well. A breach in the insulator would cause a low res reading so that can be ruled out as well. That leaves only two possible root causes imo ie insufficient upward pressure from the 510 pos pin or a bad wiring connection. With the former a sticky 510 pos pin due to insulator deformation or machining tolerance could be the culprit. For the latter a bad/cold solder joint on the 510 neg or pos connection, bad/cold solder joint on the board, loose hardware or an insufficient wire crimp on the ring lug if crimped instead of soldered.
Looking forward to viewing the pics and hearing your thoughts.

Sounds good. After reading your break down I'm tending toward the soldering but we'll pull it out and see. I was putting the multimeter positive directly on the pin and the other to ground. You may have saved a 510 from an unwarranted trip to the landfill. I am quite proficient in producing cold solder connections so this is now high on the possible cause list.

 

[KTMRider]

Any available without lipo? Maybe an 18650 or 26650?

MC sold 900 and 1300 Silo cases for DNA200's. When the 75 and 250 came along, they fit too. MC doesn't sell any more 900 or 1300 which is a shame because I think they're the best cases out there. The DNA200/250 needs 11.1v (nominal) so you need to use a 3s lipo or 3 18650 (which won't fit). The DNA75 uses 3.7v (nominal) so you can build a Silo 900 (if you can find one) with a 18650 sled.

I have 7 Silo cases. 2 1300 (DNA250's and 3s 1300 lipo), 3 Silo 900 (1 DNA200 and 3s lipo and 2 DNA75 with 18650) and 2 Silo 75C still under construction.

Silo 900

Silo 900 and 2 1300

And the 2 freshly soda blasted Silo 75c

 

[gkenney]

[QUOTE="And the 2 freshly soda blasted Silo 75c

[/QUOTE]

Soda blasting, I'm going to look into that.
They look great!

Thanks

 

[KTMRider]

Soda blasting, I'm going to look into that.
They look great!

Thanks

Don't bother, I spent a few hours looking for more info and pics but there isn't much info out there for blasting raw aluminum so I just jumped in and tried. Most stuff online is about car or moto parts and even then the info was scarce and more about cleaning rust or grease off cast parts, not billet.

I got the 20oz blaster from Harbor Freight ($20) and some Arm & Hammer baking soda (2 4lb boxes). I have a 33gal air compressor so it worked great for me. The blaster needs 7cfm and my tank/motor was rated for 5.8cfm but the 20oz of baking soda held in the gun doesn't last long enough to bring the compressor tank down below 90psi (150psi when I start) before I have to stop to refill.

In the review section of the blaster, some say to drill the hole in the feeder and gun to 3/8" or 1/4" but I didn't need to do that. I did take it apart to clean and smooth the holes as there was flash material inside. When using it, you have to hold the gun pointed downward a bit (30-45°?) and shake it left and right to keep the media (soda) feeding. I didn't use a blast cabinet since you can't reclaim baking soda (turns into talc) so I did it outside. Baking soda leaves a white powdery residue that protects the aluminum so you can let it sit a few days/weeks before washing it to paint or anozide. I just wanted to get rid of the machining marks and was going to use it as is. The finish looks great but it's a fingerprint magnet and scratches easily. I can't anodize because I already used JB Weld on the magnets and I don't know how or where to get it done locally. I'm thinking of getting some matte clear paint (Krylon?) to clear coat it. Otherwise, I'm very happy with the results.

 

[gkenney]

I'm curious to know what failed on the VT510.

Okay, I'm going to try this without a picture. If that doesn't work I'll take the next step. If I'm thinking about this correctly I should be able to confirm continuity through the spring loaded pin by putting the multimeter on ohms (low as mine goes is the 200 range). When I touch the brass pin on top with one lead and the brass part used for soldering with the other lead I get a reading of 1.4 for both the used connector and a new one. When I touch the brass areas with one lead and place the other lead on the connector base or threads I don't get a reading.

Regarding the multimeter, when I touch the leads together I get a fluctuation, flipping back and forth between 1.4 and 1.3. It eventually gives up and stabilizes at 1.4. If I'm reasoning correctly that means the multimeter/lead combination has an base resistance of 1.3XX ohms and the connector has some small amount of resistance that is too low for my $15 multimeter to resolve.

Am I correct that these results show it was my poor soldering job that caused the problem.

There is continuity through the pins and the pins are insulated from the base so the connector is good.

 

[cigatron]

Okay, I'm going to try this without a picture. If that doesn't work I'll take the next step. If I'm thinking about his correctly I should be able to confirm continuity through the spring loaded pin by putting the multimeter on ohms (low as mine goes is the 200 range). When I touch the brass pin on top with one lead and the brass part used for soldering with the other lead I get a reading of 1.4 for both the used connector and a new one. When I touch the brass areas with one lead and place the other lead on the connector base or threads I don't get a reading.

Regarding the multimeter, when I touch the leads together I get a fluctuation, flipping back and forth between 1.4 and 1.3. It eventually gives up and stabilizes at 1.4. If I'm reasoning correctly that means the multimeter/lead combination has an base resistance of 1.3XX ohms and the connector has some small amount of resistance that is too low for my $15 multimeter to resolve.

Am I correct that it these results show it was my poor soldering job that caused the problem.

There is continuity through the pins and the pins are insulated from the base so the connector is good.

All good, well done. You are correct on all counts. A better meter could resolve to .00X and tell you more but it sounds like the VT510 is good. No surprise there, it's a proven component.

Soldering tip when connecting wiring to larger mass objects: Start by tinning the wire first, then heat the pin or housing up to temp where it will take a solder ball and place the tinned wire onto the solder ball while continuing to heat. As soon as the wire melts in with the solder ball remove the heat but hold the wire VERY still while the solder cools enough to solidify. A good solder joint will have a smooth semigloss/glossy appearance where a cold solder joint will have a rough matte appearance.

 

[gkenney]

All good, well done. You are correct on all counts. A better meter could resolve to .00X and tell you more but it sounds like the VT510 is good. No surprise there, it's a proven component.

Soldering tip when connecting wiring to larger mass objects: Start by tinning the wire first, then heat the pin or housing up to temp where it will take a solder ball and place the tinned wire onto the solder ball while continuing to heat. As soon as the wire melts in with the solder ball remove the heat but hold the wire VERY still while the solder cools enough to solidify. A good solder joint will have a semigloss/glossy appearance where a cold solder joint will have a matte appearance. Using this method should ensure you never get a cold solder joint.

thank you!

 

[gkenney]

Don't bother, I spent a few hours looking for more info and pics but there isn't much info out there for blasting raw aluminum so I just jumped in and tried. Most stuff online is about car or moto parts and even then the info was scarce and more about cleaning rust or grease off cast parts, not billet.

I got the 20oz blaster from Harbor Freight ($20) and some Arm & Hammer baking soda (2 4lb boxes). I have a 33gal air compressor so it worked great for me. The blaster needs 7cfm and my tank/motor was rated for 5.8cfm but the 20oz of baking soda held in the gun doesn't last long enough to bring the compressor tank down below 90psi (150psi when I start) before I have to stop to refill.

In the review section of the blaster, some say to drill the hole in the feeder and gun to 3/8" or 1/4" but I didn't need to do that. I did take it apart to clean and smooth the holes as there was flash material inside. When using it, you have to hold the gun pointed downward a bit (30-45°?) and shake it left and right to keep the media (soda) feeding. I didn't use a blast cabinet since you can't reclaim baking soda (turns into talc) so I did it outside. Baking soda leaves a white powdery residue that protects the aluminum so you can let it sit a few days/weeks before washing it to paint or anozide. I just wanted to get rid of the machining marks and was going to use it as is. The finish looks great but it's a fingerprint magnet and scratches easily. I can't anodize because I already used JB Weld on the magnets and I don't know how or where to get it done locally. I'm thinking of getting some matte clear paint (Krylon?) to clear coat it. Otherwise, I'm very happy with the results.

I would really like to know how you resolve your final finish. It would be good to know if the clear coat works. The finish, as is, is really nice. I was considering how to remove the machining marks by buffing, scotch brite wheels, etc and was thinking about starting on the inside of a case to see what kind of damage I would be doing before moving to the outside. Aluminum is so soft and you've shown the soda blast produces a very pleasing finish. Please let me know what you conclude.

thanks for the info